2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

No start after front cover re-sealing.

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Old Apr 12, 2008 | 09:00 PM
  #1  
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No start after front cover re-sealing.

Oh great Rotary gurus, I lay at the alter of the Magic Spinning Triangle.

I've been elbow deep in a front cover for about two weeks now. First I broke an old oil cooler line (the one that goes to the front cover). Then I find that the oil cooler cracked when I popped the banjo bolt off. Luckily I had a extra oil cooler in my shed that is in god shape. Then I broke the mounting tab off the back of the air pump when I was re installing it. Then I broke the mounting tab off the NEW (used) air pump doing the same thing. Now everything is back together. But it won't start. It'll crank, but not start. Well kinda.....

Here's what I replaced.

Front cover gasket and front main seal
Both water pump gaskets
All four spark plugs. (Removing them helped get some ratchet swinging rom when I took off the PS/AC bracket)
Oil cooler
One cooler line

Here's what was removed, then re-installed

Front cover
Water pump then water pump housing
Alternator
Air pump
AC pump
Pump brackets
Fan/Shroud/intake boot
Both EGI fuses to use that starter to pop the eccentric bolt

First attempt to crank it it ran for a minute, but only with me giving it gas and as soon as I stopped it would die. Then it wouldn't start again. I pulled both EGI fuses and cranked again. Cranks but no start. Put fuses back in, runs for a minute but only if I work the pedal. I'm running into a proverbial brick wall and am out of things to check. I don't see any loose wires, or vacuum lines.
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Old Apr 12, 2008 | 09:11 PM
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From: nyc
is the CAS stabbed correctly?
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Old Apr 12, 2008 | 11:22 PM
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The only thing I did with the CAS was unplug it and then replug it back in when I was done. I puled it with the cover. Does it need to be redone?
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Old Apr 13, 2008 | 01:22 AM
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From: spokane wa
u are going to have to redo your timing if you took off the front cover. thats probably why it wornt run.
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Old Apr 13, 2008 | 10:38 AM
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The CAS has moved.

Rotate the engine until the yellow timing mark lines up with the pointer.

Remove the CAS, and then remove the cover from it.

Rotate the CAS until the pointer on the bottom of the shaft lines up with the dimple on the gear.

Hold the rotor with your thumbs as you insert the CAS into the engine. You may need to rock it back and forth slightly.

Plug in CAS, restart engine.

Adjust timing.

Tighten retaining bolt, reinstall CAS cover.
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Old Apr 15, 2008 | 11:51 AM
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Cool, got it running for about five minutes before it died when I revved it. Also, a little smoke coming from the right rear of the engine bay. I didn't take anything off over there, but theres definite a light smoke coming from over there. And not exhaust, but a differnet type of smoke. It's weird.
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Old Apr 15, 2008 | 05:22 PM
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From: Nor Cal
Okay. I've removed and reinstalled my CAS about four times. Once it warms up, it dies and can't be restarted. I still haven't restarted it. When I was checking my timing at idle with it not fully warmed up, my Leading timing was way off, but my Trailing timing was perfect. I tried moving the CAS up and down a gear, but nothing. Any thoughts?

I'm so close to driving this thing again.
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Old Apr 15, 2008 | 09:05 PM
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From: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
Timing can't be set right unless the engine is fully HOT........AND under 1100rpms. It's written.
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Old Apr 15, 2008 | 09:28 PM
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From: Nor Cal
But what do you do when as soon as it get to operating temperature it dies? My idle is right around 900 rpms.
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Old Apr 16, 2008 | 09:09 AM
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From: Nor Cal
Anyone?
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