Guys,

I searched and only am getting a flash for the timing light on all plug wires EXCEPT the L1. What could this be. I am already having fits getting the timing right because I think I have a mismatched pully boss on an S5 TII JDM. Any Ideas?

 

Set the timing using L2. As L1 and L2 fire at the same time, no reason why you can't get the signal from L1 unless the wire is bad/grounded.

 

probably a fould sparkplug? are you using never sieze on the threads?

 

**Thread Jack** (SOO SORRY GUYS REALLY) I found a blue cap that says L1. Were does it go?

 

I am not using never seize on the plugs. Should I? I will switch the wires on L1 and L2 to see if it is the wire.

 

i get the same thing, for some reason teh timing light will pick it up if i SLIGHTLY pull the boot off the coil and let it arc

 

induction timing lights are Picky.
Try changing the Plug in L1 to make sure that you have ruled the plug out.
since L1 and L2 fire at the same time,and you get Spark on L2,But when you switch wires,the L2 wires are good,.
have you tried another set of Wires.
another thing,you have to really hold that Induction Coil(the thing that wraps around the plug) Just 'So' to get a timing reading.
also try to take the L1 wire off at the coil to see if it Sparks.

 

Thanks...I am beginning to suspect a bad coil. Now I am getting no reading off of L2 and none from L1. I will run some tests like you suggested tonight to rule out a few things. The wires and plugs are brand new, although I could have a bad wire/plug.

 

Start the engine. Pull a sparkplug wire out of the Lead coil about a 1/8". It will be sparking. Then do the other Lead plug the same way.

 

The no spark could be my problem with starting. It is a fresh rebuild with less than 50 miles on it using used housings (about 40k on them) and new 3mm apex seals. I had the injectors clean and tested by witchhunters and all checked out within spec, but the car is a bitch to start. It thinks about it, but won't unless I pop start it. Then it runs ok. If the leading coil is not firing, this may cause the hard start. At first I thought it might be low compression for the fresh rebuild, but it may be I am not getting fire out of the leading coil. Does this logic sound correct?

 

get the car started. Idle the car. Pull one Lead plug out of the coil assy about a eighth inch and see the spark. If you see the spark the coil is good.

 

OK, Tested the front coil and it has .2 Ohms resistance. The rear coils have .8 Ohms each. The FSM shows the minimum to be .2. The haynes manual says that the front should match the rear reading. Is this true. If so, is my front bad? Would this explain the difficulty in starting?

 

Did you try the test as Hailers suggested? Hold the wire with an insulated device when removing the wire from the coil. Also, if the leading plugs weren't firing, not only would it start harder it will barely run ob the trailing plugs.

 

Found the problem or at least part of it. I did Hailers test and there was no spark from the front coil. I put another front coil in it and got an interesting charge through the olde body. I started the car. Although it was still not easy, at least it started on its own. I am guessing the reason now for the hard start is an engine with less than 50 miles on a rebuild. Anyway, for the first time, I got a reading off of L1 for the timing light and was able to set the timing and then the TPS. WOW. It really runs great now for the first TIME! No hesitation, just honest to goodness pull and power. THanks for your help guys as always!

Signed HAPPY FC OWNER