boostmotorsport

So my T2 was hesitating while cruising, and progressed to all out neck jerking, to stalling to not starting. Well I pulled the leading plug wire about .5" from the coil while it was idling(VERY rough idle) and there is no spark ther at all. Within 5 minutes the trailing arent sparking at all either, and my car wouldnt run at all(obviously). Also no connections seem to be corroded, or loose. I havent done any modds or f'd with anything recently either. What are the odds of each of these coils gonig in the same day? What should I do!!!?? Is it the ECU dying?? HELP!!!

MadMaxine

Your guess is as good as mine. My 7 is sitting in my driveway staring me down everyday: sparkless. When I tried starting it the other day something popped underneath the hood. I my ECU is pretty much a goner. I'm thinkin it's the ECU. We're in the same boat.

niner

haha, I'm in that boat too right now
damn car...

edit.
oh yeah, you wanted help
doesnt sound right that both coils would go out at same time
w/ key in on position, check that you have 12v at both coils, connect voltmeter in series between the connectors that go to coils, you should see 12v at one of the wires for each T and L coils (cant say which wires you should see it at right now, but one of them for each coil should)
If you dont have that, I would be thinking of Crank Angle Sensor, but that might just be me

MadMaxine

Wow, that makes three of us.

I've tried moving the crank angle sensor, I know my timing is off. I'll play with it more tomorrow and look at the coils and stuff. I hope it's a relatively minor problem.

Yesterday the car sounded like it wanted to fire. It's getting good compresion. I hooked it up to my other car to keep a steady flow of power. But alas, nothing. No spark.

niner

I hear ya, I'll be workin on mine again tomorrow too.
I gotta unflood the bitch and put my switch on the fuel pump relay. Just bought a can of starter fluid too. Its a new jspec and I havent gotten it running right yet, just put the engine in last week. It might be the walbro pump thats flooding it so bad.

MadMaxine

I just put my newly remanufactured engine in 2 weeks ago. And like the retard I am I mixed up the fuel lines. So it wasn't even getting any fuel in the engine. Good thing I figured it out.

Also, I found a wire just hanging out in the engine bay and I grounded it with my hot wires. Sure enough the S.O.B. made the air conditioning work again. So, I thought that was pretty cool.

boostmotorsport

I tried checking for a 12 volt on them and found nothing, but I didnt really know where to look for it. I tried right behind the wires under that little plastic clip on the leading.

boostmotorsport

So I tried a new ecu, and new coils with no changes. Also, it fires very erratically now. And sometimes not at all. It will start for about 2 seconds then die out. The CAS hasent moved in months. it basically is just misfiring really bad. Sometimes the leading coils will fire and sometimes not. What should I do?? At this point I am about ready to tow it to Mazda!!!

boostmotorsport

Does the AFM have any relation to wether or not I get spark?

niner

Damn, looks like the 2 of us might have the same problem. If you look at my thread that should be around you'll see that my situation is kinda like yours.

My car is like yours, sometimes I'll see spark when I check it, but mostly not. From what I believe, I do not think the AFM has anything to do w/ spark. I did find out though, that the "EGI INJ" fuse had to be good in order to see the 12v I was talking about (this is an 87 TII, I dont know what yours is).

You could check the resistance of the CAS just for the hell of it. FSM says it should be 110-210 ohms, from B to B, and also Ne to Ne.

I <--thats the tab for the connector
B Ne <--the B's and Ne's are the connectors
B Ne

Dont know if this will fix your problem, and I'm not trying to send you on a wild goose hunt but this is something I have checked on mine in attempts to find the problem.
I also checked the wires from the coils to ecu, but dont know how to check the signals.

Hey, if you do find the problem, post the solution on here please. I would be very interested in hearing it. I got an extra CAS layin around if you need it, I'd sell it for cheap.

good luck, i hope you fix it

HAILERS

Is your lead coil assy bolted down to the frame good. The coil will not fire if the body of the coil assy is not grounded. Probably not your problem, but what if??

Even then the trails would start the car by themselves.

You should have 12v on the yellow/black wire at your lead coil assy. Its in a small white connector with one other wire. The other wire might/might not have aproxx 5v on it. That one triggers the coil.

Did you know that neither lead sparkplug will fire if the other is not connected OR grounded??? Thats what will give you odd results if you just hold a plug wire close to a source of ground.

My gut says your car is flooded severely. I'd remove the lead plugs, whip the engine over for thirty seconds or so with the fuel pump disabled, replace the lead plugs with new ones and try again. Don't waste money on trail plugs.

You say you've seen spark...so there are no fuses out that matter.

The cas determines when the fuel injectors fire and the sparkplugs.


Make a fuel cut switch and try again. Flooded I say!!!!

niner

Flooded eh?
This must be the flooding from hell then. I've tried every which way to unflood and used starter fluid and stuff.
I'll keep at it, might try my new unflooding idea.
Still dont know why I cant get spark ALWAYS.


Question: Is there any way a coil can be bad even if the resistance checks out OK? Or can I forget that idea and move on?

boostmotorsport

It will start on occasion now, but dies out 2 seconds later. Its not flooded. Niner I may be in touch for that CAS. Thanx for the replies guys, keep em comin.

boostmotorsport

Ven when it starts for that 2 seconds spark is very erratic, I can tell by holding the plug wire about .5" from the coil and watching it arc.

boostmotorsport

Oh yeah also with the key in the on position with the engine off, if I smack the feder wall under the hood between the fuse box and leading coil my TACH needle JUMPS. Where exactly does it get its signal from? Seems that must be related to the root of the problem. It never use to do that. What parts are directly related to misfiring-coils, ignitor,ecu,wiring harness,CAS, fuses, -anything else?

HAILERS

Schematic 87turboii attached. Check your MAIN RELAY. See schematic. Thought you had one.

boostmotorsport

I do have access to a spare main relay, where is it locate under the hood? I lost my FSM. But I am not very good with wiring schematics anyway Looks like that needs to change quick, as my feet are getting tired from all this walking!

Racer 13B

The main relay is located next to the trailing coil packs.
Scott C.

boostmotorsport

Is it the small silver 2x2"ish box between the coil and firewall?

Racer 13B

yes it is.

HAILERS

It should have two connectors on its harness(the relay). The 12v for the coil assy pass thru it. Since you have intermittant spark maybe the contacts inside it are bad.

boostmotorsport

now sometimes it will start up will all coils firing then die abruptly about 2 seconds later.

boostmotorsport

ttt

HAILERS

Did it start firing after you changed the main relay???? Do you know where the fuel pump jumper plug is near the right hand strut tower? Yellow in color. Two socket? I'm starting to suspect you are starving. Turning the key to START, will make the fuel pump run only as long as the key is in that position. Once you let the key return to ON, the micro sw in the afm completes the fuel pump circuit and keeps the cars fuel pump running. Is your afm connector on good???? When yu do the jumper of the fuel pump jumper plug, you bypass the afm switch.

88TurboII

Sorry I can't help you much, just a couple observations.

They sell a tool for less than $20 at most auto stores that lets you easily check spark. It's much more reliable than just trying to hold a plug 1/2 inch from a ground. You plug the spark plug wire into one end of the tool, and attach the other end to ground. You can adjust how far apart the contacts are on the tool. You turn over the engine (or start it if it will) and watch the spark jump the gap in the tool.

If you have a timing light, you can hook that up to a wire and turn it over and see if it flashes regularly. Everytime the plug fires you will see a flash.

If your coils aren't grounded as stated above, they won't work.

If it starts and dies in two seconds it sounds more like lack of fuel to me or a huge vacuum leak to me. Are you sure you're getting fuel? Does it smell like raw gas out the tailpipes? Are the plugs wet when you pull them?

All it takes to start is fuel, compression and spark. It sounds like you're really having trouble narrowing down where the problem is.

Sorry I can't be of more help.