no spark, no clue still
11-27-08, 10:57 AM
#1
gas whore daily driver
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Phoenix, az
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
no spark, no clue still
OK so the car runs with the wrong afm in it, I thought maybe i would check to see if the coils were not getting power after a sec. well they certainly are. The power stays on the black/yellow wire to each coil pack so why the loss of spark? this doesnt make a bit of sense to me.
11-27-08, 11:51 AM
#2
HAILERS
Join Date: May 2001
Location: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
Posts: 20,563
Likes: 0
Received 21 Likes
on
19 Posts
So, the WRONG afm lets the car run, but if you put the RIGHT afm on it does not run. That's what I understood.
I'd say the RIGHT afm is corrupt and is killng what is called the ref voltage that is created inside the ECU. The ref voltage is used inside the ECU to make spark, fuel injector pulses and also used by the various sensors for ...ref voltage.
So I'm suggesting that the RIGHT afm is dragging down the 5vdc ref voltage inside the ECU and everywhere else that uses the 5vdc rec voltage. There is a way to prove that or not. Just put the RIGHT afm in the car, and then pull the elect plug off the boost/pressure sensor. See if that elect plug has 4.5vdc to 5vdc on its BROWN/WHITE wire, with the key to ON or not.
If the voltage is 1-2vdc, then unplug the afm and look at that plugs BROWN/WHITE wire again to see if the voltage has risen to approx 5vdc or not. If it rises up, then that afm is kaput. Get another afm.
It could be another problem, but I doubt it since you used Another afm and the car runs/idles/whatever.
I'd say the RIGHT afm is corrupt and is killng what is called the ref voltage that is created inside the ECU. The ref voltage is used inside the ECU to make spark, fuel injector pulses and also used by the various sensors for ...ref voltage.
So I'm suggesting that the RIGHT afm is dragging down the 5vdc ref voltage inside the ECU and everywhere else that uses the 5vdc rec voltage. There is a way to prove that or not. Just put the RIGHT afm in the car, and then pull the elect plug off the boost/pressure sensor. See if that elect plug has 4.5vdc to 5vdc on its BROWN/WHITE wire, with the key to ON or not.
If the voltage is 1-2vdc, then unplug the afm and look at that plugs BROWN/WHITE wire again to see if the voltage has risen to approx 5vdc or not. If it rises up, then that afm is kaput. Get another afm.
It could be another problem, but I doubt it since you used Another afm and the car runs/idles/whatever.
11-28-08, 01:45 PM
#5
gas whore daily driver
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Phoenix, az
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I would but its my daily driver, I actually had it on craigs list awhile ago lol. so till I get the red **** bomb going I got to hang on to it.
11-28-08, 03:18 PM
#7
gas whore daily driver
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Phoenix, az
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
well it runs like crap, cant really get anthing above 3k rpms, sounds like its under water when it idles etc. as for the numbers on the BAD one the tag says N318. the numbers on the (WRONG) afm next to the nippondenso tag is 197100-2470
Last edited by rxdex; 11-28-08 at 03:22 PM.
Trending Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
23Racer
Race Car Tech
1
09-21-15 10:48 AM
