Questions:

What do I need to remove? OMP? Oil Injectors? What else?

Also, what do you need to plug the OMP and oil injectors with? What kind of bolts and how many?

Where can I get instructions about removing them? Haynes?

Do I need to DRAIN any fluid before I proceed?

Thanks!

 

Also, I did a search, but I just want to make sure that I get every answers I need.

 

^

 

when i get home i'll send you all the links i have regarding the subject. and give you a writeup.

 

THANK YOU MAN!!

 

I know that there are only like 3 moving parts in the rotary, but is just running premix enough to lubricate all vital componants? If it was why dont people put premix in where the motor oil goes and it would be injected into the combustion chamber, then you wouldnt have to worry about putting pre-mix in every time you fill with gas.

 

basically, yes...you cannot inject just fuel into the rotary. You need some type of lubrication...

This is the basic idea!

RX-7 GT, I hope you get home soon so I can browse all these things while I wait for the soccer game to start!

 

dude do you even own an rx7 yet??... just leave the OMP. it's fine.

 

I am waiting one.....I want to meet someone in teh community and check out the car together. I have no experience. Also, I was going to get a Haynes from Can tires, but the last one sold out......

I am tempted to run Pre Mix because it runs cleaner and less prone to failure.

 

im waiting for my visual basic class to get over with

 

Visual Basic, I hate it and I love it!

Just have fun programming stuff. Maybe you can create a program that does fuel/2 cycle oil ratio calculation!

 

^

 

so if you can remove the OMP system and run premix...how the heck does the my oil in the pan get so freaking black by the time i change it at 2500?

 

For some pics of a car with removed OMP system check out my page http;//hypntyz.rx7life.com/myturboII

Now, there are basically 2 parts tot eh oiling system of a rotary...the main system, just like apiston engine has...oil pump, pressure regulator, pasages, etc. that oil the e-shaft and rotors. This works 100% of the time the engine is runnning.

Then there is an add-on system, the OMP setup. IT takes a little of that pressurized oil, and, dependingon the throttle position and load, squirts a little bit of it up through some plastic lines outside the engine, into 4 oil injectors placed on top of the block and bottom of the intake...this goes on to the apex seals, which otherwise would run dry all the time due to them being set out and apart from the rotors adn e-shaft.

Removing the OMP system does not alter the oiling of the main engine system, just runs the apex seals dry. Since this would killa motor before long, you then put some oil into the gas, to be injected with fuel, which just so happens to be aimed into teh combustion chamber just like the oil injectors were, so the apex seals still get lubed. You use 2 cycle weedeater oil in teh gas...1oz per gallon of gas, or 1/2qt at fillup.

I feel(along with some others) that this is better than stock, if youre willing to fool with it. Because, on engines Ive taken apart, it is evident due to observed wear patterns that the stock oil injectors do not spread the oil out over all the apex seal lengths...only about 2mm in the very center gets realy lubed well. Thus there is always a shiny ring around the middle of old housings, and dull worn areas on teh other 90%. Also, regular motor oil leaves behind deposits on teh rotors, causing **** to get dirty, seals to stick, and possibly break.2 cycle leaves behidnd very little deposits, so in theory it is better for an engine that was built recently, etc. to keep it clean inside.

 

Depends on your car type.
With an S4, you remove the arm, and fix a block-off plate onto where the MOP came off. Remove the intake, unscrew the oil injectors and lines, and put screws or filler (JB weld, jacket filler, etc.) in the injector holes. Remove the vacuum spider and block of the vacuum nipple.

With an S5, you do the same thing, but have to deal with the electronic half. Disconnect the MOP, and the engine throws a code and the ECU goes into limp home mode. You can either solder a resistor into the circuit, or leave the OMP connected and just put some permatrex'd bolts in place of the lines and leave the MOP connected.

I've got the bolts right now, but when I return home and gonna get a haltech and then I don't need to worry at all.

 

I came across a site that sells a piece that will let you connect the OMP to a 2-stroke oil resivior tank. I'm probably going to do this later on, since it would remove the need for pre-mix, but still give me pre-mixings advantages, and the OMPs advantages. http://www.rotaryaviation.com/oil_in...p_adaptors.htm

maybe for the resivior I could get a rear wiper washer fluid tank, and run a line to the adapter?
but if your OMP has failed, then you may as well go primix since I hear it is over $1k to replace it.

 

COPandENG [sp?] reported a problem with this. The resevoir must be mounted 6 inches above the block off pump. With it this high, the resevoir drains into the engine with the engine off, making for HUGE smokey starts, and a waste of oil.
Not to mention it doesn't add all the benefits of premixing. You are still only using the injectors, which doesn't spray onto the entire apex seal. If you want to use premix, go all the way. Its not that hard! If you don't have the time or the memory to add a little bottle to your gas tank every 4 days or so, you should buy a honda. It's 20 seconds for christ's sake!

 

garfinkle runs the 2 cycle oil with the little piece and a tank he made ,the omp had to be modified to clear the turbos .It smokes on start up a little only some times.

 

I run both. I use the OMP AND premix.

 

If the car I am getting has OMP working, can I still pre mix it?
I mean, what's the benefit of running premix in a fully functional OMP engine?

 

You benefit from having both. OMP works fine. Premix works fine. IMO combining the two works just as well. I use premix so that I won't "carbon lock" the engine and have to use the atf trick. I took the advice of Dragon, and after viewing the inside of his first engine, I agreed as well.

 

combining the two might give more protection to the apex seals, but it would also result in more carbon buildup, as your injecting the crankcase oil(that, remember doesnt burn completely) as well as 2 cycle. Plus youre using alot more money, and youre *bound* to get some smoke, a good bit on startup if you injecto twice as much oil as required. THink about it. Either do it all or not at all, IMO.

 

wait, someone said just pour the oil in your fuel tank.

Wouldnt the oil just sit on top of the gasoline in your tank? It wouldn't really be pre *MIX*, more like you run on strait gas and then ur engine is filled with oil. You would need to mix the gas & oil in a bucket or whatever before pouring in the can.

Thats just what my friend who rides 2stroke motocross bikes said.

 

Just shake the car around, the 15 year old suspension will help lmfao

 

i don't want to sound retarded, but what is an s4 or an s5. i have an 86, what series is that?