2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

No Power When Hitting The Throttle (I think?)

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Old Jun 7, 2007 | 03:49 PM
  #1  
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From: turner me
No Power When Hitting The Throttle (I think?)

1987 t2 ok did motor swap runs well but doesent go very good new plugs filters removed the exaust to check for clog. i had one of my buddies who worked at mazda for years he said that its running on both rotors and it sounds realy good it dosent run rough it just dosent go i did have the distributor out and checked the timming all looks good ??
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Old Jun 7, 2007 | 04:00 PM
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SpeedOfLife's Avatar
rotors excite me
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SPEAK ENGLISH

and it's only a slight contradiction that it runs well, but "doesent go very good"...
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Old Jun 7, 2007 | 07:19 PM
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The head-on-wall icon at the end of your post is exactly what I want to do to myself after attempting to read what you "wrote"

Write--->Read what you wrote---->Rewrite it in ENGLISH please, thanks.
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Old Jun 8, 2007 | 06:34 AM
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From: turner me
ok been thinking about it what if the injector wires were crossed are the wire color coded it runs but its numb
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Old Jun 8, 2007 | 06:39 AM
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Wtf dude? Dont you even read replies?

So I'll answer like you post.

Wires are l1 l2 t1 t2 front rear rotor all same color goes like 1 2 3 4 from top to bottom

car is na or tii if na check 6 port to see if they open also maybe injectors are jammed what color of smoke do you see from exhaust
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Old Jun 8, 2007 | 07:31 AM
  #6  
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From: turner me
the car dosent smoke tII i had it right down to the block mabe i crossed one of the injectors. would it run?so if i take the intake off will the wires be colored. im not talking about the plug ins
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Old Jun 8, 2007 | 09:58 AM
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Turbo II's Avatar
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If, and this is a big if... I'm reading you right the car runs fine but you just don't have any power when you get on the throttle?
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Old Jun 8, 2007 | 10:01 AM
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OK your car is a 87, but year of motor did you swap into it??? If it was a 88 or newer you will need to either change your injectors to low resistance or remove the resistor pack. You can find this out by looking at the color of your injetors, tan 86-87 13B Turbo, low square center, purple 88 13B Turbo, high square offset.
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Old Jun 8, 2007 | 10:35 AM
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Engine, Not Motor
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I can't even change the title to something more appropriate because I have no idea what the original poster is trying to ask...

Can you please retype the post in actual English so that we can understand what you are asking? Things like sentence structure, punctuation, proper spelling and capitalization help a lot.
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Old Jun 8, 2007 | 12:12 PM
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From: turner me
i did use a newer motor but i had to change every thing right down to the block i used the original injectors that were on the car. if by chance i crossed one of the injector wires would the car run? i can drive the car but its just numb the mazda tech said it was running on both rotors and it was running smooth.a 4 cylinder saturn would out run it. oh by the way it uses alot of gas.
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Old Jun 8, 2007 | 12:27 PM
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Unless I am mistaken (please correct me if I am), the primary injectors batch fire, meaning that crossed wires should make no difference. If the secondary and primary wires were crossed (I think this very unlikely) the engine would not start.

Was the engine originally a turbo? I hear that a N/A AFM make turbo cars run terribly rich.
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Old Jun 9, 2007 | 11:39 AM
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From: turner me
do they both fire at the same time what if the secondary wires were crossed like from front rotor to back rotor???yes it was a turbo engine
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