jimmydanny

Even the boost sensor is S5 now, I swapped it in May

I was JUST going out to check voltage on the B/Y and B/G as well

jimmydanny

Do NOT ask why, but I got spark, gas, everything.

So, any tips on how to get my AFM to work again? :P Waiting for a new one from Japan, but waiting sucks. I can give you the problems, it might just as well be the MAP, but everything I know says AFM.

I can only give 10% throttle, all over that and I only get backfiring. At 100% I only get silence, untill I release the throttle, giving me a huge backfire.

I can't have boost at all, I have to stop at zero bars/psi, all over gives backfire as well, got no vacuum leaks at all, compression on all six sides, spark, fuel on all.

satch

iTrader: (1)

With the car running press open the flapper door and see if the engine speed increases or not.

jimmydanny

It doesnt, stays right where it is. Also, when I did it when it was working, it died, it didnt increase, which also seems logical, as it drowns in fuel.

But the S5 AFM seems welded shut, no way to open and test the potmeter or spray it with.. dunno the english word for it, but electronic spray.

If I get the pinout for it, I should be able to figure out if it is the potmeter or the temperature sensor that is gone?

Tbh, there is no need or use for such a test, as I am getting a new one, and it is unopenable, and unfixable, but I would like to know.

jimmydanny

Stupid forum with limited time edit function!

I would like to know if something else in my car could suddenly (at an intersection, out of the blue) cause the AFM to not work? ECU, some wiring (I bet there is a 12V line into the AFM, I can check that and get back to you if you know which wire to check), grounding.

I will be honest here, I am not sure it is the AFM, it could just as likely be something controlling the power to it, or the ECU itself.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Post #2, right diagram indicates five wires connected to the ECU where two are redundant.

Pin 2B 4 volts key to on and 2.5 to 3.5 volts idling
Pin 2K 2-3 volts idling w/68 dgree air temp.
Pin 2I 5 volts w/key to on.
2 Brown/Black are grounds.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...egi+fuse+blows

jimmydanny

Well, input was fine. How about resistance from the potmeter? I tried, but the measurements I got was.. random at best. 0.4 ohm when out, gradually going to 0.0 ohms when pressed all the way in. Seems.. off?

jimmydanny

Okay, I will try one thing and see what I find: Are there ANY cars that use the same connector and approx the same voltages in their AFM as the 7? If I could find that, I could figure out for sure if it is my AFM or not. I am getting one in, but Japan Post must be the slowest EVER! 4 days with EMS (plane) from Japan to Germany? Never before...

I tried reading diagnostics. Since I have JDM engine, I got no check engine light, so I have to use the S4 method for reading error codes, but I got no output. Tried with voltmeter, getting 7.3 volt, dropping 0.1 per sec to 7, then stopping there. Someone plugged something wrong when connecting everything to the ECU? Because I do have atleast one errorcode, which is the intake temp sensor. But nothing :/

satch

iTrader: (1)

What does this mean? What wire? If you have no output when reading codes then how do you know you have an error code?

jimmydanny

The 6-pin diagnostic connector, supposed to give out blinks when connected, getting only a steady voltage.

I am sure to get an error code because the intake thermosensor is not connected, so I should get either or of these, depending on the 6-pin using zenki or kouki codes. As I understand it, the cars with check engine use kouki, and these are checked inside the car, mine are checked with a special lamp outside, so I guess they should be like the zenki ones. But that doesnt matter, I get none...

Zenki:
Code 15 - Intake air temperature sensor.
DCC1: L P ... (1 long light ... long pause ... repeat)
DCC2: S P ... (1 short light ... long pause ... repeat)

Kouki:
11 - Intake Air Thermosensor (Engine) - Intake air fixed at 68F

11 is one long, one short.

Also, if my AFM is gone, I should get a code, tried disconnecting it, same thing, no light. But still getting a voltage to the diag plug, so something is off.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Of the three wires in the check connector, which one do you believe is not acting properly? The S5 ECU needs to have the single wire check connector located near the leading coil to be grounded to provide the diagnostic light with the code flashes. Are you grounding this wire or do you not have it ?

jimmydanny

I have the 6-pin with 4 pins connected, using three of them, the ones you mention. I also have a two pin like the one on the back of the S4 alternator (one spade flat, one spade upright, like a T), and as far as I know, that is not the S5 diag connector, as the S5 diag connector is one wire one pin.

Also, I have S4 harness on all but the engine, and as far as I remember, the diag connectors are on the front harness, not the engine. So that is why I said something might be wrong down at the ECU, how they connected it when swapping engine.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Pin 1I needs to be grounded and the S5 wiring indicates the wire is normally Orange. Two of the three wires at the diagnostic connector come from pins 1D and 1F while the third wire is B/W (regardless of model S4 or S5).

jimmydanny

I read on FC3SPro, and what you are saying is way off from the info I got there, unless you explained it a bit quirked compared to them.

satch

iTrader: (1)

How is it way off? You stated you have an S4 Front harness which explains why there are four wires in the diagnostic check connector but on an S5 there would only be three wires. Of these three wires one comes from the Main Relay, B/W wire, which is the same for both the S4 and S5. The other two wires are Yellow (pin 1D) and a Yellow/Black wire (pin 1F). On an S5 Front harness there would also be a single wire check connector that houses an Orange wire and this comes from pin 1I. So with pin 1I grounded then the B/W wire, the Yellow wire and the Yellow/Black wire are the three wires that would connect to the three wire diagnostic code checker lights. This has worked for those w/o a CEL light on their S5 idiot lights when trying to pull codes.

jimmydanny

Oh ok, sorry, you never said I should actually USE the 1-pin grounding before I tested. Well, then I might actaully get some results out. I thought you meant I should ground some other cable on the 6-pin.

Wonder if this works with 8V left on my battery? :P

satch

iTrader: (1)

Post #38 says otherwise. And if the voltage is too low your ECU probably won't do much of anything.

jimmydanny

You said pin 1L, which doesnt state what connector I will try it later today (tomorrow for you guys) and see what happens. Worst thing is needing to connect my dads 'Rolla up so I can get some power, but anyways, I do know my AFM is gone, pretty obvious when no reaction to anything.

Also, Japan Post sucks, takes 6 days from Osaka to Berlin? WTF, EMS is supposed to be better and more expensive. Yeah, the latter at least..

satch

iTrader: (1)

1I and 1L are not the same.

jimmydanny

Okay 1I, didnt see that, thought it was a small L. But anyways, still counts. I will go shop some tobacco to survive the night, then Ill go and see if I can find some wire to test it with.

jimmydanny

I was wondering how they connected the ECU to the front harness... The orange wasnt connected out of the ECU...

Sooo, I took the ECU in, and opened it. Corrosion everywhere. So I took a wild one and put it in the shower and put full force and 100F water over it. Let it dry till friday, and see what happens!