st1llet0

iTrader: (2)

To be more specific. My car had an s5 engine with an s4 intake. So I purchased an s5 intake, ported it, and installed it over the weekend. I'm almost positive that there are no vacuum leaks. As far as electrical goes, the engine i fairly stripped. The P/O called it a "Bareblock Mod" So all I saw that needed hooking back up was the Throttle position sensor and a grounding point.

The car will start, wrap up to 2k for about 2 or 3 seconds and then the EGI fuse blows.

I can troubleshoot OK but when it comes to electrical I know nothing. If anyone wants to point me in the right direction to get started, I would greatly appreciate it.

HAILERS

A lot of the time the EGI blows because it also feeds the alternator and the short is at the alternator wiring.

It feeds that white/blue (WL) wire on the alternators small plug.

Then again, it also feeds all the solenoids on the vacuum rack. Each of those solenoids had a black/white wire on it. Gee whiz. Ole bare block BOB done did remove them there nasty ol solenoids and eeeek! wires! So what did ole BOB do? Snip 'em and tie 'em back so they could touch gnd? Probably. The black/white wires also went to the ACV solenoids. Wonder what ole Bob did to them. Got me.

Then again, the EGI on a series five also feeds the fuel injectors power, the ECU, and the coil assy's. Wonder what ole BOB did to those to make 'em better. Ole Bob. Quite a guy. Not much of a mechanic though.

See the diagram. See the W/L and W/R wires on the left of the jpg? Going into the MAIN RELAY? Both come from the EGI fuse. This diagram does not show the W/L feeding the ALT, but it does in another jpg. Probably NOT the wire feeding the alternator. But, who knows. Ol BOb knows. Zhou Enlai gonna get ole Bob's job.

st1llet0

iTrader: (2)

Though humorous and I'm sure very informative to those who understand schematics, I didn't take much away from that. Are you saying to check for wires that are touching bare metal? And maybe trace the white and blue wire from the alternator?

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

happened to me once a long time ago. Turned out to be the solenoid plugs grounding out. If you have those cut off, make sure to wrap each one in electrical tape.

st1llet0

iTrader: (2)

Ok, I'll check that out. I don't think the solonoid plugs are clipped though. I'll ****** my wifes camera and see if I can take a few pics of the damage did, I know I'm going to get hell for my secondary fuel rail but I'll post anyway.

HAILERS

Yeah. I'm saying each of the solenoids has ONE wire that is black/white. That wire comes from the EGI fuse. If touching gnd, then the fuse blows.

IF you have a ACV on the engine, it has two solenoids. Each solenoid has two wires. One of which is black/white. Goes to the EGI fuse.

HAILERS

Try this. Put a new EGI fuse in. Turn the key to On only. Wait for say ten minutes. See if it blows or not. Heck, make it fifteen minutes.

Say it blows. Now put a new fuse in and pull the small plug off the back of the alternator. Key to On for another period of time. See what happens.

st1llet0

iTrader: (2)

Thanks hailers, i would have to say that is the most direct and helpful advice I've ever received on theses forums. I have will do that tomorrow morning.

Another quick question, is there any current flowing through the exterior metal of the fuel injectors? I have to improvise a solution seeing as I had an s4 secondary fuel rain and an s5 intake (don't worry, the things not budging) I used very oversized hose clamps, tightened it down super tight, drilled a hole in the excess and bolted it to the mounting location. I think one of the hose clamps might be touching the rear injector (touching, not pushing on). Would this cause a short?

st1llet0

iTrader: (2)

Ok, that b/w wire doesn't look like it's making contact with ground at any of the points mentioned above, however it is connected to ground where it terminates (a ring) I don't know if thats right or what.

AbortRetryFail

Use heat-shrink tube or GOOD electrical tape. The cheap stuff will turn to goo when it gets hot and come off leaving slime all over the wire and whatever else it might touch.

st1llet0

iTrader: (2)

Ok, I fixed the fuse issue. A wire was grounding out to a block. I wrapped it up really well with good electrical tape. The car will start and run, but only if I keep on the gas. I have a feeling there is a vacuum leak but that isn't my top priority right now.
I'm getting ecu trouble codes 30,31,32,33,34,38,40, and 41.
http://www.johnr.com/cpucodes.htm
Now why would I get this? Could I have shorted something and fried the ECU?

HAILERS

:MY bad. There is a gnd wire for the ECU colored black/white (series five only) that is a ........ground wire. Not all black/white wires in the car are power wires.

But ALL the black/white wires on the solenoids on the engine , plus the ones on the ACV ARE power wires from the EGI fuse via the Main Relay. I was talking about the black/white wires in the two schematics that I attached.

HAILERS

Alll those codes are for the solenoids in my two diagrams. The previous owner removed them, the solenoids. No solenoid equals a code being kicked. The ECU is not at fault and is working just fine.

st1llet0

iTrader: (2)

Then why haven't there been any error codes for the past 3 months? There weren't any solonoids there when I bought it, and this is the first time it's kicked out the codes. I there some way to trick the ecu into thinking that they're still there?