This is driving me insane.

My pulsation damper was leaking, so, of course, being broke, I did the banjo bolt mod. I read all the information I could find on the subject. I asked tons of questions. Everything. So when I did the mod, I made sure everything was done according to all the correct information I had found. I didn't touch anything that I was not supposed too. I bizillion-checked everything to make sure it was all disconnected before removal of the TB and UIM, and vice versa for reinstallation.

It's getting fuel. It's getting spark. It's very obviously getting air, but it won't fire.

I did not remove the secondary fuel rail, I didn't touch the injectors. All I did was disconnect the harnesses very...very...very carefully, as not to break them.

So what the hell is going on? I just don't understand why if I did everything 100% correctly, it won't start...

 

I know it sounds stupid, but is it flooded?

 

collin said it isn't flooded be cause he did a serious de-flood on it...

and im eager to know y its not starting too!

Hey collin- you should say what you've done
like the plugs
and tell exactly what hampster does

like if it keeps flooding when u try to start it
or just yea

that stuff

 

It just spins over and over like it should when you start it... but it won't fire.

De-Flooding the fuse way didn't help. Uber De-Flooding by taking the plugs out and spinning the fuel out of the chambers also didn't work. Cleaning the spark plugs squeaky didn't do anything.

 

check the fuel pressure. possible the banjo bolt is not allowing fuel to the injectors or are your plugs wet with fuel?

if your fuel pressure is say around 80+PSI then you definitely plugged up the primary feed line since that is static fuel pressure from the pump.

 

The plugs were wet with fuel.. It's definitely getting fuel.

 

how did you check for spark? plugs can foul also so putting new plugs on the wires does not mean it is getting spark.

did you clean and be sure to tighten the engine ground firmly? the one at the rear rotor housing i am referring to.

if all else is ok then you could have a massive vacuum leak such as the brake booster line disconnected which is bypassing the AFM completely in which case causes the ECU to whig out.

 

I didn't check for spark. A friend did, who, to be honest, knows far more than I do about RX-7s and cars in general.

No grounds were removed when I did the banjo bolt mod... and as I said, I did not touch anything that was not mentioned to me or read.

Two vac lines broke when I removed them, and they were replaced with new lines. Both are snug. All other vac lines are in good condition.

The ONLY thing that I did not bolt back on was the bracket for the vac lines that broke. There was no ground attached to it, and the bracket got bent, so bolting it back on turned out to be extremely difficult. So...yeah...that's the only thing NOT reconnected. But it's just a bracket. :-\

 

well something didn't go back on right, and i'm thinking it is vacuum related. do you remember hooking the large vacuum(brake booster hose and BAC supply hoses) lines back up?

 

Check that you didnt remove your ECU ground and forget to put it back on. I did that back in the day and had all kinds of weirdness happen.

 

i already asked that and apparently it wasn't touched so i would rule out a ground issue unless something happened to the main ground near the starter or chassis ground at the LF strut tower.

 

sure you got the Injectors right?..Like not Reversed ..NOT the plug itself But the Primary Plugs on the Primary Injectors..and so on..(Guessin here..I haven't Done a Real "dirty rebuild yet")

 

could be the ever so common pushed pin in a primary injector clip. only one of the plugs would be getting wet with fuel though but then again most people see one wet plug and assume there is fuel to both rotors which isn't always the case.. it is VERY difficult to get a rotary to start on one rotor with fuel to that rotor only.

 

Stupid question perhaps, but did you use a hollow banjo bolt or just a metric bolt from a hardware store?.....a common bolt won't allow fuel to pass into the fuel rails to the injectors. It has to be hollow.

 

Sounds to me like you need to shoot some oil in the chambers to rebuild compression and try another set of plugs.

 

Alright, to answer several questions...

All hoses and things that I had to take off got reinstalled exactly as they were. I've got a great memory when it comes to stuff like that.

Pushed pin on the injector? Huh? I was careful when removing the injector plugs, for fear that the exhaust-baked 20 something year heat would cause them to be brittle.

Impossible that I reversed any fuel or injector line or fitting. Why? Well, it only goes a certain way..

Yes, actually, I'm not quite that stupid. I used the correct BANJO bolt... A standard bolt with no holes and no bored out body would be uh...rather...pointless...

I suggested the oil thing to the friend, locally, that actually got me the bolt and washers for the mod to begin with. He said they don't use that unless it's got a stuck Apex seal. I think it'd be worth trying, though. How much oil do you suggest?

 

only a small amount per housing, maynbe a tablespoon or so. look for the deflooding procedure at Rotary Resurrection

 

i had the wire clips come out of a injector clip befor, then it was running on one rotor, it still started ok, but it had no power at all. i had a hell of a time figuring out what was wrong, i got so good at taking off the manifold on my TII, i did it in 17.5 mins w/ disconecting everything.

 

you guys are scaring me i'm in the process of doing the exact thing, along with replacing all my vacuum and fuel lines, i'm putting it all back together tomorrow so hopefully i don't have this same problem also

 

how did u check for fuel??... pull a spark plug and crank it over see if gas/air "fog" comes out just to make sure... u may need to prime the fuel system to remove all the air. there is a jumper to prime it near the battery so u dont burn your starter out... if your friend checked the spark i would check it myself to be sure some times things get over looked. just pull a plug out press the threaded part of it on the shock tower.to be safe dont get near the end that sparks with your finger and check for a spark... if its a week spark try charging the battery.

idk if that helps but thats what i came up with

 

after i did the banjo mod, mine flooded all to hell when i first tried to start it. im talking NO compression, it sounded like an electric motor. Try the uber unflood process again with some 2-stroke oil. it took 2 tries with oil added to get mine started, havent had the problem since

 

If you cant get it deflooded, put some oil in each and then pull it behind a truck around the block in 2nd gear or something. helps getting super flooded cars to start

 

I think it's flooded. Try to push start it and pop the clutch--that always helps me when I have a major flood. Otherwise use ATF.

 

hey did this ever startup??

 

Well, I'm not the one that had this problem, but I know Rotorica. And it wasn't getting enough air. He adjusted some air-flow screw and that fixed it.

But a few weeks ago, he went to get into his 7 and when he turned it over, he popped an apex seal. He finally got the motor un-jammed and it was running on 1 rotor. So he sold it.

Just helping out....