No fuel or Spark!
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Lincoln, NE
Posts: 215
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
No fuel or Spark!
Ok, I just installed a J-spec engine from www.rotaryworks.com into my 89 TII. I'm not getting fuel or spark. I tried using the fuel pump jumper, to get the fuel pump to kick on. When I have the igniton on, and I stick the jumper in the yellow connector, I don't hear any "Click" at all. The fuel pump won't kick on!
I took one of the wires off one of the spark plugs, put a screw driver in the end of it, and held it against the engine block. I had my friend crank, and there was no spark at all. I tried this with all the plug wires.
I've checked the AFM, the ENG and EGI fuse. They're all good.
All the grounds are on the engine.
The tach only bounces when I turn the key on. When I crank the engine, the tach doesn't bounce at all.
Thanks in advance!
Brando
I took one of the wires off one of the spark plugs, put a screw driver in the end of it, and held it against the engine block. I had my friend crank, and there was no spark at all. I tried this with all the plug wires.
I've checked the AFM, the ENG and EGI fuse. They're all good.
All the grounds are on the engine.
The tach only bounces when I turn the key on. When I crank the engine, the tach doesn't bounce at all.
Thanks in advance!
Brando
#4
Engine, Not Motor
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 29,789
Likes: 0
Received 108 Likes
on
91 Posts
Check out http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/naturbo.htm . I used the bone stock NA block with 250,000KM on it. And when I pulled it apart about 2 months ago, it was almost perfect inside (and that's 250K KM WITH the stock metering oil system).
#5
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Lincoln, NE
Posts: 215
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yep, I never took the wiring harness out of the car. It's never been disconnected from the ECU.
The wiring harness is connected.
I'm positive the CAS is connected. There's only one connector that will fit it right?
Even so, I should still get fuel if the CAS is disconnected, right?
Thanks!!! I can't wait to hear what you have to say at the Revolution!
Brando
The wiring harness is connected.
I'm positive the CAS is connected. There's only one connector that will fit it right?
Even so, I should still get fuel if the CAS is disconnected, right?
Thanks!!! I can't wait to hear what you have to say at the Revolution!
Brando
Last edited by brando; 04-09-03 at 02:33 PM.
#6
Lives on the Forum
Try doing an ECU error code check?  Does it pass the "ECU OK" step?
Also, check the "ENGINE" fuse in the driver's side kickpanel - this control power to the fuel pump and typical "pops" when working on the engine.
-Ted
Also, check the "ENGINE" fuse in the driver's side kickpanel - this control power to the fuel pump and typical "pops" when working on the engine.
-Ted
#7
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Lincoln, NE
Posts: 215
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The eng fuse is good.
How do you do an ECU code check?
Are there any grounds that I may of missed that would keep me from getting fuel and spark?
Thanks!
Brando
How do you do an ECU code check?
Are there any grounds that I may of missed that would keep me from getting fuel and spark?
Thanks!
Brando
Trending Topics
#8
HAILERS
Join Date: May 2001
Location: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
Posts: 20,563
Likes: 0
Received 21 Likes
on
19 Posts
1. The two wire connector at the LEAD coil assy. Get a meter and see if you have 12v there on the black/yellow wire.
2. Jumper the fuel pump check connector. Yellow in color. Located near the boost/pressure sensor. Not connected to anything. Did the pump run when the two sockets were jumpered?
3. Jpg attached. Follow the green dots. It shows the path of the 12 from the fuse in the engine bay to the coil assy. If there is no 12v at the black/yellow at the LEAD coil assy, then go back to the Main Relay and see if there is 12v going to the relay on the Black/Green wire.
4. If there is 12v at the LEAD coil assy, pull the smallest plug off the ECU and check to see if there is 12v at any of the sockets on the harness plug and report back.
5. If you have any skills in the way of installing a cas, pull the sucker out. Turn the key to ON, pull the Lead Coil plug wires to the front of their bores leaving a gap. Spin the cas gear on the bottom. Large sparks should crackle at the bores of the LEAD coil assy.
6. While standing around doing nothing in particular, pull a plug off any of the solenoids and see it there is 12v on the black/white wire. Report back.
7. And if your really bored, pull the elec plug off the pressure sensor, put a meter on the brown/white wire and see if there is 4.5 to 5 volts on it. If not, then the ECU is not getting any power and or is cooked. When the ECU goes **** up it won't put out a reference voltage, which is a strong indicator that it won't be sending a signal to the coil assy in the near or far future. Cheap 20 buck digital meters available at the Radio Shack.
2. Jumper the fuel pump check connector. Yellow in color. Located near the boost/pressure sensor. Not connected to anything. Did the pump run when the two sockets were jumpered?
3. Jpg attached. Follow the green dots. It shows the path of the 12 from the fuse in the engine bay to the coil assy. If there is no 12v at the black/yellow at the LEAD coil assy, then go back to the Main Relay and see if there is 12v going to the relay on the Black/Green wire.
4. If there is 12v at the LEAD coil assy, pull the smallest plug off the ECU and check to see if there is 12v at any of the sockets on the harness plug and report back.
5. If you have any skills in the way of installing a cas, pull the sucker out. Turn the key to ON, pull the Lead Coil plug wires to the front of their bores leaving a gap. Spin the cas gear on the bottom. Large sparks should crackle at the bores of the LEAD coil assy.
6. While standing around doing nothing in particular, pull a plug off any of the solenoids and see it there is 12v on the black/white wire. Report back.
7. And if your really bored, pull the elec plug off the pressure sensor, put a meter on the brown/white wire and see if there is 4.5 to 5 volts on it. If not, then the ECU is not getting any power and or is cooked. When the ECU goes **** up it won't put out a reference voltage, which is a strong indicator that it won't be sending a signal to the coil assy in the near or far future. Cheap 20 buck digital meters available at the Radio Shack.
#10
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Lincoln, NE
Posts: 215
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
WOOOO! Thanks Hailers! Dude, did you know, that you helped me with my no fuel/spark problems with my NA?! I bet you don't even remember it!
Well, I found somethin today! The ground for the ECU wasn't installed on the engine! It was just layin there, so I ripped the UIM off, and put it under the Intercooler bracket, and bolted it to the block.
WE HAVE SPARK! BUT.......We don't have fuel.
I jumpered the fuel pump, and I didn't hear anything.
SOooooooo.....I wanna see if it's getting power. Which fuel pump wires do I need to check to see if the pump is getting juice?
Thanks!
Brando
Well, I found somethin today! The ground for the ECU wasn't installed on the engine! It was just layin there, so I ripped the UIM off, and put it under the Intercooler bracket, and bolted it to the block.
WE HAVE SPARK! BUT.......We don't have fuel.
I jumpered the fuel pump, and I didn't hear anything.
SOooooooo.....I wanna see if it's getting power. Which fuel pump wires do I need to check to see if the pump is getting juice?
Thanks!
Brando
#11
HAILERS
Join Date: May 2001
Location: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
Posts: 20,563
Likes: 0
Received 21 Likes
on
19 Posts
The fuel pump connector is behind the left hand strut tower under the rug. The power wire is the large BLUE one, IF the jumper is put in the yellow plug near the right front strut tower (it's name escapes me right now) or the key is HELD to ON.
The fuse that feeds the pump is the one in the jpg above that is a 15a called X-07. But that fuse has to be good if you get spark.
Good find on that gang of grounds on the top of the engine. Makes a big difference if they are not grounded, as you know.
Just noticed you used the word intercooler. OOOps, I attached a N/T diagram above. There's a touch of difference. You putting a turbo in a N/T?? I'm doing that now. Using the N/A harness. Not much difference. At least not worth talking about. I need to go back and re-read this thread I guess.
But turbo or non turbo, the Blue wire at the fuel pump connector supplies pwr to the pump.
Did you put a turbo harness in a N/T?
I'd stick a meter lead in the back of the BLUE wire on the fuel pump connector, leaving the plug connected, and turn the key to START and see if the meter reads 9-12 volts. If it does, check the black ground wire at the fuel pump plug.
The fuse that feeds the pump is the one in the jpg above that is a 15a called X-07. But that fuse has to be good if you get spark.
Good find on that gang of grounds on the top of the engine. Makes a big difference if they are not grounded, as you know.
Just noticed you used the word intercooler. OOOps, I attached a N/T diagram above. There's a touch of difference. You putting a turbo in a N/T?? I'm doing that now. Using the N/A harness. Not much difference. At least not worth talking about. I need to go back and re-read this thread I guess.
But turbo or non turbo, the Blue wire at the fuel pump connector supplies pwr to the pump.
Did you put a turbo harness in a N/T?
I'd stick a meter lead in the back of the BLUE wire on the fuel pump connector, leaving the plug connected, and turn the key to START and see if the meter reads 9-12 volts. If it does, check the black ground wire at the fuel pump plug.
#12
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Lincoln, NE
Posts: 215
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
hehe yea, I have an NA, and a s5 TII. The signature is out of date......
I"m talking about my TII.
I'll get a meter, and run some tests tomorrow.....
Thanks a TON!
Brando
I"m talking about my TII.
I'll get a meter, and run some tests tomorrow.....
Thanks a TON!
Brando
#13
Originally posted by brando
WOOOO! Thanks Hailers! Dude, did you know, that you helped me with my no fuel/spark problems with my NA?! I bet you don't even remember it!
Well, I found somethin today! The ground for the ECU wasn't installed on the engine! It was just layin there, so I ripped the UIM off, and put it under the Intercooler bracket, and bolted it to the block.
WE HAVE SPARK! BUT.......We don't have fuel.
I jumpered the fuel pump, and I didn't hear anything.
SOooooooo.....I wanna see if it's getting power. Which fuel pump wires do I need to check to see if the pump is getting juice?
Thanks!
Brando
WOOOO! Thanks Hailers! Dude, did you know, that you helped me with my no fuel/spark problems with my NA?! I bet you don't even remember it!
Well, I found somethin today! The ground for the ECU wasn't installed on the engine! It was just layin there, so I ripped the UIM off, and put it under the Intercooler bracket, and bolted it to the block.
WE HAVE SPARK! BUT.......We don't have fuel.
I jumpered the fuel pump, and I didn't hear anything.
SOooooooo.....I wanna see if it's getting power. Which fuel pump wires do I need to check to see if the pump is getting juice?
Thanks!
Brando
Its funny, you call this the Evil site but when you really need answers you come here. hmmmm.
#14
Re: No fuel or Spark!
Originally posted by brando
Ok, I just installed a J-spec engine from www.rotaryworks.com into my 89 TII. I'm not getting fuel or spark. I tried using the fuel pump jumper, to get the fuel pump to kick on. When I have the igniton on, and I stick the jumper in the yellow connector, I don't hear any "Click" at all. The fuel pump won't kick on!
I took one of the wires off one of the spark plugs, put a screw driver in the end of it, and held it against the engine block. I had my friend crank, and there was no spark at all. I tried this with all the plug wires.
I've checked the AFM, the ENG and EGI fuse. They're all good.
All the grounds are on the engine.
The tach only bounces when I turn the key on. When I crank the engine, the tach doesn't bounce at all.
Thanks in advance!
Brando
Ok, I just installed a J-spec engine from www.rotaryworks.com into my 89 TII. I'm not getting fuel or spark. I tried using the fuel pump jumper, to get the fuel pump to kick on. When I have the igniton on, and I stick the jumper in the yellow connector, I don't hear any "Click" at all. The fuel pump won't kick on!
I took one of the wires off one of the spark plugs, put a screw driver in the end of it, and held it against the engine block. I had my friend crank, and there was no spark at all. I tried this with all the plug wires.
I've checked the AFM, the ENG and EGI fuse. They're all good.
All the grounds are on the engine.
The tach only bounces when I turn the key on. When I crank the engine, the tach doesn't bounce at all.
Thanks in advance!
Brando
Last edited by rockymtn7; 04-22-03 at 05:45 PM.
#15
Glock Lover
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Currently residing in St Charles, MO
Posts: 2,223
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by powder_tool
Aren't you the guy from the kiddie site(teamfc3s.org) with 4000 posts?
Its funny, you call this the Evil site but when you really need answers you come here. hmmmm.
Aren't you the guy from the kiddie site(teamfc3s.org) with 4000 posts?
Its funny, you call this the Evil site but when you really need answers you come here. hmmmm.
Wheres your wealth of information?
#16
Originally posted by TonyTurboII
Kiddie?
Wheres your wealth of information?
Kiddie?
Wheres your wealth of information?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
trickster
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
25
07-01-23 04:40 PM
Skeese
Adaptronic Engine Mgmt - AUS
65
03-28-17 03:30 PM