ryan2949

iTrader: (2)

No A/C + hot, humid, rainy day = SUCKS ***.

I never even thought of this when I bought the car. I completely forgot that if it's raining I'm fucked. So it was just raining today, nothing major. INT wiper setting was all I needed and when in traffic everything got wet. I can just imagine if it started pouring out... I wouldn't know what to do. Soak the interior of the car and myself or drench myself in sweat... Hmmm.

Just thought I'd share. Anyone have any tips? LOL, I highly doubt there's anything I can do. When at highway speeds the rain didn't get in the car.

Rob XX 7

iTrader: (8)

now wait a second- are you telling me that if its hot out, and it rains- you have to roll up the window????

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

Re-install A/C.

ryan2949

iTrader: (2)

I know right! I was just as shocked as you. The problem with rolling my windows up is that my car becomes a sauna.

Don't have that kind of money. Moving out of town for college in the next week.

Rob XX 7

iTrader: (8)

looks like you will be sweating

MIDNFauciUSN

iTrader: (8)

Park the 7 in the garage until Saturday night, then put it back in the garage when you get home. Drive your beater (2012 MS3) everyday like me!

ryan2949

iTrader: (2)

One day I'll have a daily, but hopefully when that time comes the RX7 will also have a turbo'd 20b.

MIDNFauciUSN

iTrader: (8)

and BHO will be replaced with a Republican!

Rob XX 7

iTrader: (8)

how old are you Ryan?
usually these things dont bother you until you are at least 23-25 years old, after that you cannot live without AC anymore

ryan2949

iTrader: (2)

I'm going to be 20 in Sept. My dad likes to drive my car as well and he's hitting 50 so he wants to get A/C. I always used A/C in my previous car, full all the time. My girlfriend gets cold fast though and I'm always really hot. I'm the kind of person who doesn't need a winter coat in -20 to -30 weather. I usually just wear long sleeves. I get drenched in sweat when I drive my Rx7 on a humid day and my girlfriend in the passenger seat is perfectly fine.

If anyone knows someone selling a complete A/C unit, or has one for sale, PM me!

Rob XX 7

iTrader: (8)

chicks DO NOT like to sit in hot cars

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

Is all the AC stuff gone from your car? It shouldn't be expensive to get the thing working again.

Let us know what you have and what you're missing and we can show ya what to get.

ryan2949

iTrader: (2)

The issue is I don't know the difference between an engine bay fitted with AC and one without. If someone could find me a detailed photo of a stock engine bay with AC that would be lovely. This way I can compare it to mine. I know the compressor is missing.

nycgps

iTrader: (4)

Err, it's easy as **** to tell

just see if u have the A/C compressor, it's located right underneath the power steering pump, i'ts a big circle thing, it's usually connected by 2 "silver/rubber" hose in the back.

I'm fairly sure you have it, it's just that ur condenser probably has a hole that's why your A/C doesn't work. It's easy to fix, takes time, lots of them, maybe 2-300 bux depends on what tools you need/buying/renting

ryan2949

iTrader: (2)

As I posted right before you, I don't think it's there.

MIDNFauciUSN

iTrader: (8)

you would be correct.

nycgps

iTrader: (4)

oh ... so the A/C has been removed.

Well ~ it's STILL not that hard to install one, I'm serious.

I just sourced a complete A/C system on Ebay for less than 100 bucks. Well I have A/C already but as our car ages, parts will break so I'm just getting a spare set "just in case"

So what you can do is keep an eye on Ebay and the for sale section on this forum. Sanden System is everywhere. There is also Nippon Denso system. They work as a set so make sure you get the "complete set" of the same system.

One thing I'm not so sure is their Evaporator core location, Are they the same? if it's not and you bought a system that's not originally on ur car, you might have to drill a hole on the firewall to fit the Evaporator core.

After you get the set, Clean everything with A/C flush solution from auto parts store, or you can just spray Brake cleaner thru all hard lines, and electrical Cleaner on the rubber lines (Plastic/Rubber safe), After u spray it, blow it dry with compressed air.

Install it with Complete new O-rings, You can get BNHR (spelling) O rings, they're usually green, or you can get Stock o rings if you are using mineral oil and Freeze12.

then make sure everything is tight (but not too tight, or it might crush the orings and/or the lines)

Vaccum, Fill, enjoy a/c

Cost?

Complete set of A/C system, I got mine for around 70 bux, 40 bux shipping. 110 bux, it might come with a used drier, you can just throw it away.
Good set of gauges - 50 to 100
a Good Vacuum pump, 150 to 500+. HF has a vacuum pump that has good reviews, but they don't sell the freaking vacuum pump oil. or u can go name brand like RobinAir or Mastercool. I got RobinAir.
Freeze12 - you need about 24 to 26 Oz, so that will cost you roughy about 40-50 bux. EPA is being gay and most seller requires u to have a license OR you just tell them YOU ARE BUYING THIS TO RESALE IT TO A LICENSED TECH TO DO THE INSTALL FOR YOU ...
Brake cleaner and Electrial safe cleaner, Brake cleaner is cheap, I just bought a load of Brake cleaner from AAP for around 2 bux each. and Electrial safe cleaner cost much more, about 4-5 bux each. U need 2-3 cans of brake cleaner for the hard lines and core and the condenser. 1 can for the soft lines is enough.
a Brand new Drier, Make sure you get the right one for your system, Nipping Denso system Drier has no mounts , The Sanden System does. Sanden System cost about 30-40, NippoDenso cost aabout 1/2, RockAuto sells them.

ryan2949

iTrader: (2)

That doesn't sound as easy as you make it out, especially to someone who isn't that mechanically inclined. When you say Sanden or Nippon systems, do you mean complete systems or just the compressor/clutch?

nicdchris

iTrader: (1)

>100 degrees here the last few days
>not using the A/C because I'm a man
>having the windows up because loldrag
>turn the fan on a medium setting and point all the blowers at me
>not that bad

cluosborne

The components locations are basically the same between turbo and non-turbo models, the main difference is in the compressor. Sanden compressors were used on non-turbos and Nippondensos on the Turbo models; Sandens are reputedly better. Note the year and engine type.

I's a pretty simple system to work on. Change out all the o-rings (including the ones in the evaporator core) with new ones coated in refrigerant oil or Nylog (red or blue depending on what refrigerant you ultimately choose). In fact, with the evaporator core out, take it apart, carefully remove the expansion valve, and flush it out (you have to remove the expansion valve to flush) as well as clean out the debris in the evaporator case.

There are other posts on what refrigerant to use and other tips. If you just do a straight installation and all the parts are in good working order (replace the drier with a new one, that's manditory), and have a friend provide the tools and expertise to put everything together, pull a vacuum and fill it, it shouldn't be too expensive (maybe $200-300 total). Avoid remans, go with new or good used OEM and change out the oil (Ester is the best bet).

If you decide to install a parallel flow condenser (expecially if you're thinking of R-134a or some other refrigerant), expect to pay a bit more for fittings, hose, high-low-pressure cut-off switch, conversion fittings, have lines made, and brackets to mount the condenser. Maybe another $200 in parts, materials and labor total--it will be cheaper and easier to have a shop make the lines for you since the crimping tools are more expensive than it costs to assemble two adapter lines..

AMA Automotive Air Conditioning Parts & Equipment - Compressors Condensers Accumulators Expansion Va is the vendor to go to for quality parts. The condensers they sell include universal brackets that are easy to bend and cut into shape.

At least you were out of the sun, I took a road trip back in August '02 in Ontario, and found that morning on a ferry that Ontario was experiencing a heat wave--which I got caught up in for six hours in a burning sun, in a black car with no A/C. It felt like a convection oven. Then, on a Sunday during that trip, while it was raining the original alternator failed at about 110,000 miles, so I was struggling between finding a repair shop and keeping the windows from fogging up), this was before I had the tools and knowledge to repair the car myself.

nycgps

iTrader: (4)

It's not as bad as you think it is.

If you knows how to build a Lego, you know how to fix a car. a Car is just a bunch of parts snapped together with bolts and bolts and bolts ...

You don't even have the compressor, so I assume the previous owner already ripped the whole system out, if you don't see any "hanging" silver pipe/tube going around the engine bay and u see 2 big holes near the passenger side firewall, then yea it's completely stripped.

it sounds like you have a NA car, if u do u need the Sanden system. like I said it's not hard to find. Just takes some time.

Only problem I see here is "tools", it does not sound like you have any, those tools will cost you couple hundred bucks. but there is something called "Amazon" and u can always just get the tools u need thru them, use it, finish the job, clean it, return it said it's broken, zero dollar out of ur pocket and you will learn something in the process. it sounds like an *** but times are hard for everybody ya know ?

things that's not free will be a Can of R134A to find leaks, and 3 bottles of Freeze12(2 12 Oz bottle and 1 4 oz ester oil charge bottle) oh yes, try not to use mineral oil, Ester oil is the best (NO NO NO PAG NO NO NO)


I completely know how u feel, I was just done rebuilding my FC and put it back on the road about 5 days ago (work and stuff the project delayed over a year), it was fine on day 1, 70-ish outside, what a ride !

but the next day, holy F 95 degrees and I was sweating like a **** in the car ...

I was thinking to hold on to fix the A/C but after that day, I was like F- this I'm gonna fix it first

then I spent almost 3 days to fix it, pulling my hair out trying to find this leak, at the end I found out it's actually the gauge I'm using that's leaking ... really slowly.

After I found the leak, fixed it, vacuum last night, holding fine till this morning, Charge it, cold A/C

*Edited* oh yea, I forgot to mention you also need to source the A/C idler pulley and the bracket/long bolt behind it. cuz u don't HAVE IT. Again it's not hard u can find them easy, just be patience and u will be up and running in no time.

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

I wonder on cars that come from the factory without a/c, are they completely devoid of the components? (Evaporator, lines, condenser, wiring and relays, etc)

ryan2949

iTrader: (2)

I'm fairly sure my car had it at one point. I mean, it's got power everything, including moonroof. But what's odd is my car also doesn't come with adjustable bolsters, rear wiper or cruise control, even though it seems to have some parts of the "a" package. It's a Canadian car, so I have no idea what our cars came with stock. In Canada we didnt have the nicer aero/w.e mirrors on coupes or verts(I think), only turbos.

If anyone can get me photos or tell me where other a.c components should be, I don't mind taking **** apart and putting it back together.

Just find it funny how this was Mazda's top car back in 91 and to not have a.c factory blows my mind.

Landon303

iTrader: (25)

My daily (88 FC) had NO air when I bought it. I reinstalled it, sourcing parts from junkyards. Spent about $80 for everything.

Then on top of that, some things were purchased new, which set me back another few hundred:
-dryer
-reman'd compressor
-oring kit for newseals @ each house junction
-expansion valve
-compressor oil
-freon

I'm in mid west FL, I prefer just rolling down the windows & sunroof as I sit in an office all day, but for those days when it's just hot as **** out or raining, man does doing all the AC repair work help