2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

newbie question-how to make a NA FC fast

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Old May 19, 2002 | 05:05 PM
  #26  
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From: kelowna/penticton
my aw11 handles well enough! Just wanted to build a FC so i could flog it hard once in awhile within a budget. Thanx for all the great input and shedding light on the topic!
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Old May 19, 2002 | 10:49 PM
  #27  
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Originally posted by pp13bnos
He was saying he wanted to know about making a n/a fast...i'm just saying, within reason, you are not going to make a n/a fast.

I love my n/a 2nd gen, but if you want a car that grips, go out and buy a miata, mp3, or get into shifter carts ($$) CJ
ok, whats your definition of fast?? NA FCs are breaking in sub 14's, which for an NA 1.3 liter is awesome. If you want a car that grips you'd go with a miata or MP3??? The FC's pull around .88g's stock. Miata is understandable but MP3??? I dont know where you're coming from when you say it isn't a handler. The FC has a history of track use but you give the upperhand to the mp3.
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Old May 19, 2002 | 10:55 PM
  #28  
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From: Birmingham, AL
Fast is a hell of a lot faster than 13s or 14s.
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Old May 19, 2002 | 11:13 PM
  #29  
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From: Orange County
IMO under 14 is very fast for everything but drag.
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Old May 19, 2002 | 11:31 PM
  #30  
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..

Last edited by pp13bnos; May 19, 2002 at 11:42 PM.
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Old May 20, 2002 | 12:02 AM
  #31  
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If you are on a serious budget I'd recommend 225/16's all the way around on lightweight stock '89 T2 rims or custom lightweight 17's with 225's up front and something bigger out back. If you want to race in the stock class like SILKWORM then 225/15's are the limit I think) An aluminum hood will shave 20lbs, a/c delete another 20lbs+, manual windows, upgraded exhaust (removes a lot of weight and more power), and manual steering rack with p/s delete.

If you want a badass street car that you can autocross get Mariah Motorsports front flared fenders $500 pair, and you can stuff 255/17's all the way around .

As for a lot more power..... truly no mods short of NOS on a ported n/a 13B will deliver if you aren't going with forced induction.

But there are alternatives......

http://www.v8rx7.com look on the visitor section and check out the forums.

I have a Buick GN V6 Turbo in my car....... bastard child car I know.

I'm getting coilover suspension from K2RD.com (arrives Tuesday/Wednesday), a 1 1/8" front sway bar from Racing Beat, caster/camber plates from K2RD, rear adjustable toelink, 245/45/16 Potenza S-03's out back, 225/16's S-03's up front with stock fenders on stock '89 T2 rims .... because I'm cheap (17lbs each vs. '87-88 model T2 rims 24lbs). This is a street car that I'd like to AutoX in June and raise some eyebrows.

Even though I have performed an engine conversion and added some additional weight up front I'm sure that the car is still going to handle great. Aluminum hood, a/c delete, manual rack+pinion, lightweight starter, aluminum radiator, single exhaust, aluminum spare tire, and rear seat removal to help in the acceleration and handling dept. Don't blow off doing a V8 conversion if you truly want some sick power and retain handling. A stock 13B with all the accessories and stock exhaust is not as light as everything thinks. A V8 with aluminum heads and alternator only will add more weight up front..... but just get better suspension.

There is a convertible RX-7 with L98 EFI 350/T-5 transmission that handles killer and he is more than happy with his car. He is on the V8 forum

Just my 2 cents....

GNX7

Last edited by gnx7; May 20, 2002 at 12:47 AM.
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Old May 20, 2002 | 12:04 AM
  #32  
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From: B.C.
Looks like you guys have experience with rebuilding the RX-7 N/A. COuld you give me a hand on my other thread???

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=81104

Thanks in advance!
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Old May 20, 2002 | 06:59 AM
  #33  
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Handling is where its at

I would look at your suspension first. Bushings are very important and you will definately want stiffer spring rates and better struts than what came from the factory. I would suggest a coil through with an adjustable collar so you can lower or raise the car as needed. I think they run about $200 each and several manufacturers make them now. As far as removing weight goes...don't sweat it so much. I know that is contrary to what others say but revoving 50lbs is the equivilent of 5hp. There is only so much you can remove from an RX-7 if you want to be comfortable and the carpet is really not very heavy at all. TIRES AND WHEELS! Replace your tires and wheels with something that is agressive and will hug the road. I would suggest that you replace them at the same time you do your suspension. Don't go for a tall wheel. Go for a wide wheel that will be about the same diameter with a lower profile tire, as your stock wheels were with a taller tire. You don't want the gross diameter to change very much. Also, be sure to maintain your vehicle. Make sure you change your rear diff and transmission fluid with a high-grade synthetic gear oil. Also, when you do actually race, be sure not to arrive with a full tank....That weight really does add up.
When you have learned to handle your new ride like a pro...look into engine mods.
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