I just got my 91 FC 1 week ago. So far, I am very happy with it.
I have searched what is first thing I have to do after getting my car.
I already changed all 4 tires and ,as a lot of guys recommend, I am going to Mazda dealership for full tune up and compression test tomorrow.
I was just wondering what is benefit to have compression test. If the number is too low, can it be fixed?
Yes, as you guess I am new bee.
I have one more question.
Even if I change engine oil and filter every 3000, do I have to refill engine oil every 1000 mile?

Thanks in advance.

 

Welcome...the search button is your friend...;p

The tune up is good...the compression test is more for peace of mind. That way you'll have a decent idea of your internals' health. If it's too low there's nothing that can really be done about it...just things to keep it from getting worse.

The rotory engine uses oil to lubricate the apex seals. This oil is delivered into the combustion chamber to the apex seals via an oil pump which actually pulls oil from your pan. So using oil is essential...lol...if you're not using oil at all then something's not right. I believe it does work out to be about a quart every 1000 miles but I can't remember...mine's been broken for a while.

 

Everything you always wanted to know - and more.
In my sig below there is a link to the Factory Service Manuals.

 

Compression test:
If the numbers are below 6 it's time to get a rebuild.

Welcome to the forum.

 

Thanks guys!

I may post more question later on, though...^_^

Have a nice day.

 

If you are able to perform basic maintenance like replacing spark plugs and coolant hoses, don't pay Mazda to do it for you because it will cost you twice as much. FYI with the advent of modern fuel injection and electronic ignition that doesn't need to be constantly calibrated like older cars, a "tune up" usually means that the dealer is just checking things that the owner could check themselves, such as belts, hoses, sparkplugs, etc.

Chapter 0 of the service manual has a Scheduled Maintenance chart. Unless you have the documented maintenance history of the car, go through all of the 60 Month/60,000 mile items. Most of these will have been covered by Mazda's tune-up, so be sure to find out what they checked and replaced so you don't end up wasting your time and money on something that has already been taken care of.

My recommendations:
Air Filter - K&N (Either the drop-in filter, or the universal "cone" filter).
Engine Oil - Castrol GTX non-synthetic (See the service manual for the proper oil weight based on your seasonal temperature)
Transmission & Differential Oil - Any synthetic oil other than Mobil 1.
Wheel Bearing Grease - Synthetic (Mobil 1 is OK for this).
Spark Plugs - NGK (Generic auto parts stores like Napa, Discount Auto Parts, Autozone, etc., sell them for a fraction of the price of Mazda).
Hoses - Get the Mazda hoses that are made for your car. Yes, they are expensive.
Belts, Wiper Blades - Generic auto parts store.
Oil Filter - Mazda actually makes a good oil filter.
Thermostat - Always buy a Mazda thermostat. The other brands are junk.
Coolant - Use only ethelyne glycol (green stuff) and distilled water (available most supermarkets in the water section). See the service manual for the proper mix and changing procedure.
Fuel - 87 octane, avoid anything with over 10% ethanol.

Be sure to read this thread. It has other links for the service manual, and Aaron Cake's site has other good information.
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=181219

The normal burn rate is 1 qt per 3,000 miles. Therefore, if you change your oil every 3,000 miles, you have no need to add oil because it will be added during the change. Also note that you can run a non-turbo RX-7 for up to 7,500 miles before changing the oil if you are just driving it on the street in a normal manner. If you opt for the 7,500 mile interval, then you would need to add oil as needed, depending on the burn rate of your particular engine. Many RX-7 owners keep a spare quart of oil in the car.

That's 85's in American lingo, lol. Actually, there are several parameters on the compression check, such as the difference between the chambers, the altitude, and the starter cranking speed, so you can't just give one number as a limit. See Chapter 1 of the service manual for a better explanation.