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new turbo nitrous setup.. need expert opinions

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Old 06-13-03, 04:44 PM
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Exclamation new turbo nitrous setup.. need expert opinions

i own 88 10th ae with minor mods.

i overheated my engine and chances are its blown. i'm planning on some major R/Rs and while at it, spraying mild(50shot) addition of nitrous. (wet sys from NOS) and please spare me the fast n furious comments..

after some research, i came to the conclusion that not too many are spraying their 13bt. one reason i got was that it would cause extreme boost creep. i also got the impression that porting the stock s4 wastegate would not completely get rid of the problem.

here are my current mods- greddy filter, 3"dp, clogged cat(soon to b removed), air pump removed. full tb mod, greddy bov, greddy profec bc, greddy rebic 3 w/ add. inj.,gauges

my planned mods - jspec engine, koyo radiator & elec. fan, walbro 255fuel pump. sx fuel press. reg., bosch 1680cc secondaries, 80-85psi oil press. regulator, wastegate porting(big as poss.), TID mod, and of course the laughing gas

i'm not sure if i'll keep the add. inj setup, since i'll be dropping 1680cc as secondaries. my concern is will my current mods and my planned mods be enough? or nitrous just a bad idea for a daily driver? thanks in advance.

eddie
Old 06-13-03, 05:39 PM
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with those mods I think its time for you to get a bigger turbo.
Old 06-13-03, 05:57 PM
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You will need to port your wastegate as large as your can go. Aim for 32 mm, and have a new flapper door welded on.

I would also set up a safety switch to turn off the system at a set psi. Example: if you are running 10 psi on the turbo, buy a 12 psi hobbs switch and wire it to cut the nitrous supply . This will be a good safety device, much like a pop-off valve.

Another thing about the nitrous syetms no one talks about.... If you arm it, but leave your valve closed, and flick it on right before you let off the gas, you will run DISGUSTINGLY rich. What this means, with a free flowing exhaust, is that you can expect the largest flames imaginable. Picture 8-10 feet of long, drawn out flames.
Old 06-14-03, 02:09 AM
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Originally posted by l33trx7
with those mods I think its time for you to get a bigger turbo.
what i failed to mention with the most likely blown engine is that when it overheated, it blewed the turbo. after months of learn as you go, i finally got a stock s4 (got 2 off ebay) on and ran the car. it ran perfectly with small smoke out exhaust(expected since it sat for about 5 months). after couple blocks of test driving, it stalled out at idle like it had a big vac leak (loos ic hose or something in that nature). started right back up but would die right away without gas. checked everywhere, couldnt find a vac leak. i haven't done the comp. test (i know it's the first thing i shoulda done, but i'm not touching the car for a little while due to frustration)
where i'm gettin at is that since i just got some s4 turbos in good shape, i'll used them for a little while, and do the turbo upgrade (t04 or 60-1) along with fmic and a stand alone when my financial situation look a little brighter. wet sys. from NOS= $450 turbo upgrade & fmic & ems =$$$$$$$


You will need to port your wastegate as large as your can go. Aim for 32 mm, and have a new flapper door welded on.
thanks for the measurement. i know i had to go big, but didn't have any hard numbers. also i heard about welding on a ex. valve from a honda will do the trick. one question about wastegate porting-- does the new flap have to completely seal against the enlarged port? i heard that it will be fine as long as it seals 75%.

Another thing about the nitrous syetms no one talks about.... If you arm it, but leave your valve closed, and flick it on right before you let off the gas, you will run DISGUSTINGLY rich. What this means, with a free flowing exhaust, is that you can expect the largest flames imaginable. Picture 8-10 feet of long, drawn out flames.
I'm not sure if I understand you correctly. By arming it, you mean cutting the system on? Valves on the bottle? and flicking it on meaning the actual "button", "spraying"? i know i sound pretty ignorant, but i want to be sure i understand you correctly. i plan on using WOT to arm the system and a button to spray. if you had your valve closed and about to shift or decel <let off the gas>, why would you spray? or maybe i misunderstood you.
as for the reason for the flames, i'm assuming that it's from the unburnt fuel meant for mixing with nitrous. is that right? i must learn everthing on nitrous.

thanks

eddie
Old 06-14-03, 02:47 AM
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Originally posted by fc3s_gtr
thanks for the measurement. i know i had to go big, but didn't have any hard numbers. also i heard about welding on a ex. valve from a honda will do the trick. one question about wastegate porting-- does the new flap have to completely seal against the enlarged port? i heard that it will be fine as long as it seals 75%.



I'm not sure if I understand you correctly. By arming it, you mean cutting the system on? Valves on the bottle? and flicking it on meaning the actual "button", "spraying"? i know i sound pretty ignorant, but i want to be sure i understand you correctly. i plan on using WOT to arm the system and a button to spray. if you had your valve closed and about to shift or decel <let off the gas>, why would you spray? or maybe i misunderstood you.
as for the reason for the flames, i'm assuming that it's from the unburnt fuel meant for mixing with nitrous. is that right? i must learn everthing on nitrous.

thanks

eddie
Try to get your exhaust valve to cover the entire port hole. It is not too hard.

A wet nitrous system has two electronix solenoids. They open up simutaneously, one feeding nitrous oxide and one feeding fuel into the fogger(s).
The system is usually wired with a manual switch to turn on the solenoids (or a button), and spray the nitrous/fuel mixture into the engine.
The Nitrous bottles have external avlves on them. These valves need to be opened before use and closed after use. They are to prevent a leak of nitrous into the engine should a solenoid fail in the open position, and make the engine run lean and die, as well as to allow the bottles to be removed for filling. These valves are what Paul walked turns around and opens in the fast and the furious.
If you were to leave this valve closed, yet supply power to the solenoids via the swich or button, both solenoids would open. But with the bottle valve closed, only fuel would flow into the engine, and it would run ungodly rich as long as the system was armed.
Running a WOT switch would cut the entire system when you let off the gas, so the above would not apply. I was thinking about my system (nitrous controller, so no need for a WOT microswitch).
Another option is to just wire a second button to your fuel solenoid. You could use a microswitch attached to the throttle that completes the circuit when the throttle is closed. Then, wire a "master switch" in series with the microswitch. This way, you flick a switch, and then whenever your throttle is closed, you fuel solenoid will spray fuel into the engine.

Make sense? There are lots of options for this kinda crap. Example: you could plumb a solenoid into your exhaust piping and spray gases, such as propane, directly into your exhaust to get coloured flames, but that's getting a little ricey.
Old 06-14-03, 06:02 PM
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Originally posted by c-squared
.
If you were to leave this valve closed, yet supply power to the solenoids via the swich or button, both solenoids would open. But with the bottle valve closed, only fuel would flow into the engine, and it would run ungodly rich as long as the system was armed.
Running a WOT switch would cut the entire system when you let off the gas, so the above would not apply. I was thinking about my system (nitrous controller, so no need for a WOT microswitch).
Another option is to just wire a second button to your fuel solenoid. You could use a microswitch attached to the throttle that completes the circuit when the throttle is closed. Then, wire a "master switch" in series with the microswitch. This way, you flick a switch, and then whenever your throttle is closed, you fuel solenoid will spray fuel into the engine.

Make sense? There are lots of options for this kinda crap. Example: you could plumb a solenoid into your exhaust piping and spray gases, such as propane, directly into your exhaust to get coloured flames, but that's getting a little ricey.
I'm not looking for flames, definitely no colored flames. Only reason for the wiring you describe above is intentionally produce flames, right? I will have a friend with experience with nitrous helping with installation and setup. I just want the safest nitrous sys possible. The system you have, is it venom? How much are you spraying? What kind of mods do you have along with the laughing gas? Any problems you faced along the way? Thanks

Eddie
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