who wants to get a pool going on what the problem is on the car? I got 5 bucks on the ECU!

 

bump cause my seven still has no spark

 

I couldn't see both the coils failing... Have you closely examined the wiring from the CAS? Sometimes those wires get real brittle and break off anf get thin. If so, that would most definitely be a key problem.

 

Thanks, a lot im gonna go check that right now, i replaced that 80 fuse. its a 100 on my seven but eaither way its good.

 

bump for the all the rx7 gods to see it again. still no spark.

 

BUMP::::!!!! and here is the summery for everyone that doesn't want to read 4 pages

The car has compression

She is gettin fuel

NO SPARK AT ALL

its gettin power to the leading coil

the tach doesn't even budge when tring to start it

i've been through all the fuses 10times all are good

the main battery ground was disconnected in by the tranny and laying there (i guess the previous owner did it, it wasn't me)

This car is stock no motor swap no nothing as far as i know with 71000 on it

The ecu light also does NOT flash when i first put the key in, all the other idiot lights fash but the engine light doens't do dick


thanks for all the help if anyone has any sugestions it would be greatly appreciated..

Sonny

 

i don't know anything about whats going on with your car. but i feel bad so i will offer words of encouragement. I'm sure its nothing too major, might just need another ecu like 1 guy said in the thread. I'm sure you'll figure it out, and when you do, you'll love it.

 

thanks man i got faith in her, i just wish i knew a little more about mazda's.. if anyone has an 89 s5 ECU forsale please pm me

 

I've told you countless times to get a DMM and actually check things, but for some reason you don't seem to want to do it. You'll be able to figure out everything if you just spend the time to check.

 

If you don't stop bumping, a mod will most likely delete this (bumps aren't allowed in the 2nd gen section). If you don't take action on suggestions before you ask for a whole bunch more help, the people who are helping you will get tired of it and stop, and others that might have insight may not post because you don't seem to follow through. Take a DMM (Digital Multi-Meter) out there and check for power at all the devices listed, or you're wasting everyone's time including your own.

 

First and foremost I think you need to figure out why your CEL (check engine light) isnt turning on. Make sure it's not something stupid like a blown bulb or the ECU not even being plugged in fully. If you can get the CEL working it'll save you a bunch of time because you'll be able to check the codes. If you really cant get the light to work I think you can use a multimeter and read the voltage jumps and then translate them into codes.

Download the FSM and check the resistance on both the coils. The tach gets it's signal from the trailing coils like said above.

Check the connections at the CAS. Also check the main relay as well.

If you do infact have a blown ECU there is probably a wiring problem and if you dont fix that fix you could just blow another one.

 

Something kinda odd I've noticed on three different FCs when the tach wasn't working. The engine fuses were facing different directions. After placing them back in with the numbers facing the driver side fender the tach began to work again.

Put a multimeter on the crank angle sensors wires and see if they are getting voltage. Unplug your ecu, then plug it back it and then maybe reset it.

 

Wtf??? a fuse is bidirectional. Current flows the same either way. Some more false info.

You said you found the main ground hanging, are you sure its the main ground? Can you take a pic?. No spark is a very common problem here, and im sure if you read the other 1243210401404234 threads about it, youll figure out your problem.

There arent many things that can cause no spark. All you need for spark is power and signal. Power is from bat and signal from the ecu/cas. But you cant check neither of those, if you dont use a MM and you are just wasting everyones time.
If you search, there are a few places which you check for 5v that the ecu puts out. If the ecu is malfunctioning or has no power it will not give those 5v.

 

wow buddy don't get all puffy about not checking things with a multimeter if you would have read the whole post you would know i have already checked everything.....
the cas has resistance, their is 12v's AT the coil but nothing from the coils seriously dood you should read b4 you bash me if a mod wants to delete this fine... i have read COUNTLESS no spark threads...
And the only spots i havn't checked with a multi is the ecu and its because i don't know where...
come on man if you don't have anything nice to say then just don't say it.. Everyone that has helped thanks very much


Here is the picture where i found the ground disconnected this is the one that comes from the negitive battery terminal and goes... to the back of the motor.. i grounded it to a big bolt on the tranny

 

Thats the ground to the starter...


Check for the 5v where it says vref.

 

i beleive you its the starter ground, but it wont reach that far it wont reach anywhere that a bolt was missing... its weird but thanks a lot for the diagram ill check that with the DMM tomorrow morning. thanks again

 

That ground is supposed to be bolted to the tranny.

 

update, ecu is geting 12v in the ignition wire, but only 1.31v in the 5v Vref. all the grounds are good, the ecu doesnt look like it has any broken solders inside, nothing looks burnt.

 

How many volts is the Vref supposed to get??!??!?!?!

 

listen man these cars are very easy to work on, bt u must do one thing ar a time...
now u need spark..u have checked the ecu and u said its good...now folllow ur wires, it looks like ur ground wires are good....check the air flow meter is good...then the main relay and ur fuses.... pull ur plugs and clean them.. also check to see if thier wet...

also to check the fuel.. u have two fuel line right by the oil fliter...pull one of them out and have somebody crank the engine over....also

 

Vref should always be damn near 5v.

 

Come on man thanks for the help but it would be nice if you read the post... i don't know if the ecu works because its a 5v ref and we are getting 1.31 so according to sonicrat this isn't right... The plugs are gettin fuel yea they are wet and prolly fouled but the coil isn't sending ANY spark so im not gonna put new plugs in it untill the coil starts sending spark or its just gonna foul another set.

ill check the main relay and the mass though thanks

so if this 5v Vref is only giving 1.31 so what does this mean???

 

try another ecu..

 

You either have really bad grounds, your ECU is screwed, or your ECU isn't able to draw the power it needs.

 

When your checking the Vref, are you leaving everything plug up? You should. You backprobe the wire at the back of the connector when your checking for the 5vdc.

Once again this month..........................the CAS outputs voltage, it does not receive voltage. It does this all by its little self.

The black/yellow wire is the ground for most everything electrical on the car. Oh fudge, it's for everything electrical on the car...

If you read less than 5vdc at the VREF, then try unplugging the afm's plug and reading again. I was a doubter about this being a problem but there's been tooooo many folk who say after removing that plug the vref goes normal. Meaning a bad afm circuit/bad afm. Havn't been messing with the afm plug, have you?

Oh, by the bye, I bought a ECU from a fellow for squat. He said it was bad. It was. The refv read about 1.3 vdc. Somewhat like yours. Find why the refv circuit is bad before installing a good used ECU. Or you'll fry it also. Usually they get fried by someone messing with the boost sensor wiring or the afm plug.