FCmidnight Blue 88

yes it has electric tape if ur talking about the one in my picture coming off the white plug.....

ok i'll try to connutiy test it.

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

That's the one, that 4 wire plug with the yellow/blue that has electrical tape on the yellow/blue is your tach's signal, I'd take that tape off and have a peak at whats going on under there.

FCmidnight Blue 88

ok well i gone done took the tape off already and the wire under the tape is like half-way almost broken and ready to fall apart if I give it 1 strong pull. .... should i cut,re-strip, and try soldering it back together?

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

Yes. Use some heatshrink tubing if you've got it to seal it up when you're all done.

FCmidnight Blue 88

hey guys I got my stock tach working now... all i did was wrap electric tape on bottom of coils, and on top of the brackets, now my tach works so werid..... but now I have noticed my rx7 will not rev pass like almost 4,200rpm. problem related to trail coils or something else thats easy to fix?

Icemark

So, you wrapped tape around the coils (effectively insulating them from the car body, that they need to function correctly) instead of fixing the problem???

FCmidnight Blue 88

no the tape is not wrap around them... the tape is only sitting on top of the bracket and on the under side of the coil! because everytime my coil would touch the metal bracket tach wouldn't work... so cover metal up with tape and bolted trails back down and now it work for the tach.

so whats the problem with the 4,000 - 4,200 rpm rev limiter feeling and not going any higher?

is this related to my problem or different?

Icemark

Okay, the coils need to be mounted to function correctly. They can not be insulated by tape. This is part of your problem.

So get rid of the tape and find out where the short is. If there is a broken or damaged wire that needs the be fixed... not band aided with a hunk of tape.

Did you fix the broken wire that was talked about earlier this thread?

FCmidnight Blue 88

ok i'll try loosing the tape but if i do that my tach wont work again. lol...

no i didn't fix the broken wire yet... cuz the yellow/blue wire coming off white 4 pin plug its gonna be hard to re-cut and re-strip it cuz there's like no room.

but i'll try i was just hopeing it wouldn't have to come down to that..

Icemark

Okay, the Yellow/blue is the tach output wire. This is the summed signal from both coils and it feeds everything in the car that needs an engine speed signal (like the tach on the dash, the Engine Computer, the cruise control, the power steering computer, the ABS computer, etc).

So if you are shorting that wire (which it sounds like you are) then you are:

#1 causing all those things above to get an incorrect signal so the car is never going to run correctly.

#2 possibly destroying the coils ignitors, meaning that you sooner or later will need to spend money on replacement ones

#3 and wasting gas because the car won't run correctly.

So fix the car right instead of trying to band aid out the problem

HAILERS

The ignitor is probably getting its ground thru one of the two inboard studs that holds it on. The outboard stud/mount is isolated so it can't be that one.

As said, if the coil assy is isolated from the chassis, then the coil/ignitor won't/CAN'T work.

As for the short wire/damage.......just extract the wire/terminal out of the plug, then solder it to the part of the wire it's broken off from. Shrink tubing is called for.

FCmidnight Blue 88

well yeah my outter stud is isolated by a rubber o-ring type looking thing... but my two inner studs are don't have those things for some reason.... is that why my problem is that my tach is not working? should i go and buy rubber o-rings that'll fit the studs?

Icemark

They are not isolated, because they are not supposed to be. They are supposed to be used, to ground the assembly.

So using tape, rubber studs, or O rings is just about the last thing you want to do.

HAILERS

Repeat of the above post.

The internals of the ignitor assy need to be grounded to the chassis. If you look at the attached jpg, I pointed to the symbol for the chassis ground for the internals of the ignitor. The pitchfork symbol.



Earlier I mentioned the outboard mount being isolated. I did that so you'd know that that mount can't give a ground to the ignitor. The inboard two mounts are not isolated and they are the ones that give a chassis gnd to the internals of the ignitor. Gotta have at least one of those studs making contact with the body of the coil/ignitor assy for it to work.

I'm clueless why your ignitor isn't working when the assy is grounded. Try another coil assy. Cheap from the wrecking yard. Twenty bucks and rarely fail if ever.

The Blue/Yellow can not ever be allowed to touch ground or the thing won't work.

Icemark

Which what I am suspecting has happened.

FCmidnight Blue 88

hey guys its been a long time since upate on my problem... here goes... I repaired the broken wire and tach still doesn't work, so then i checked for spark while engine was running. I pulled the trail spark wires and there was no spark at all so that means its time for a new trail coil right????

i also pulled my plugs on the lead coils and those had spark.

so it needs a new trail coil correct guys?

FCmidnight Blue 88

are you guys still out there with me?

FCmidnight Blue 88

I guess i lost u guys.

jake1191

iTrader: (1)

test your wires going to the coil. to see if there is power to the coil. i would more likey bet it is the coil though but better off testing for power to it before getting a new one and being pissed that it doesn't work

FCmidnight Blue 88

how to i test the trail coil if it it's getting power?

jake1191

iTrader: (1)

volt meter you can pick one up at an auto parts store or radioshack then test using the plug prongs