RX_Lucky7

I have read a LOT of posts and threads, searched a LOT and gotten a LOT of good info. So, I think it's time to get some specific input about my project. All advice/comments are welcome.

I have owned 8 Rx-7's (81',86',94',88',88',92',88', and finally my 88.') and finally I have something worth completing. It is only because of the number of cars I've owned that I have any knowledge at all. I am not a mechanic or a racer. I am, however a very quick learner and an able "tinkerer." I have experience drifting only on the street (mall parking lots) and none in any technical sense. I know in a general way what I am doing behind the wheel and under the hood - I'm confident and cautious. All of that being said, I need some help. I don't know where to go from my current set up mechanically and I need technical advice as far as drifting. I don't want to just start clutch kicking, heel-toeing and ripping on my e-brake. I have spent too much time and money (blood, sweat and tears) on this current car to go out and break something.

So, in a couple sentences my question is this; My goal is to compete in drift events, so am I on the right track with my current set up? And; Where do I go from here - both under the hood (so to speak) and behind the wheel?

Here is my current vehicle;

1988 GTU

Suspension:
Megan coilovers with 8kg front and 6kg rear springs
mazdaspeed front and rear strut brace bars

Brakes:
stock

Engine:
rebuilt, street ported s4 13b-T
3mm apex seals
Complete emissions delete
Proper eg, etc. block offs
Bnr stage 3 turbo
Corksport front mount intercooler
Corksport full 3in exhaust with 2.5in dp
Walbro 255lph fuel pump
Stock injectors
Stock TII ECU
Set @ 5.5psi
Stock everything else


Drivetrain:
Exedy stage 2 clutch
Stock everything else


Wheel/tire:
S MR7s
17x8.5 front, 17x9.5 rear
Michelin Pilot
215/40/r17 front 255/40/zr17 rear

Interior/Monitoring:
Blitz turbo timer
ProSport Boost, Tach, Water Temp Gauges
N/A Gauges

RX_Lucky7

Continued pictures:

Evil Aviator

Looks like you are starting off with a pretty good setup. I don't drift, but here are a few general ideas for the track:
- Add covers for your battery terminals
- Add a nice 2-way LSD for drifting (be careful with this on the street). OS Giken and Cusco are popular.
- You can buy a modified e-brake button for drifting, but I forgot who sells them.
- If you are serious about drifting, then you should add safety equipment such as a roll cage, pads, fire extinguisher, battery cut-off, racing seats and harnesses, helmet, etc. I recommend following the FIA or SCCA guidance because drifters usually have crummy safety standards. The Autopower bolt-in roll cage is fine. The Cusco roll cage is dangerous in my opinion, and does not meet racing standards despite their misleading advertising of meeting street legal standards.
- Add warning lights for your gauges if they don't already have them. Gauges are great for the street but you don't have time to look down at them on the track except maybe in the long straights.
- Add upgraded fuel injectors and a piggyback fuel computer or EMS so you can get the maximum out of your upgraded turbo which is good for 15-16psi boost. A nice Aeromotive or SX fuel injection FPR would also help with tuning, as well as act as a pulsation damper if the previous owner removed the stock damper which is known to leak and cause engine fires.
- Add some nice street/strip brake pads like Hawk HPS or HP+, some good street/strip brake fluid like Castrol LMA or ATE Super Blue, and maybe some DOT stainless steel brake lines from Mazdatrix if you like. The rest of the stock brake system is just fine, and you can replace your worn brake rotors with plain vented rotors like the cheapie Brembos that you can get at Tire Rack.
- That Megan suspension is junk. If it works somewhat then you can use it for a while until you become a better driver, but it will ultimately hinder your performance vs. a quality setup.
- If your turbo is still water cooled then you don't need the turbo timer, and you can sell it to somebody who has one of those crummy Chinese or Mexican dry bearing Ebay turbos.

Pele

iTrader: (28)

Japan2LA

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-rx-7-1986-1992-parts-194/fc3s-drift-e-brake-button-f-s-800540/

RX_Lucky7

I appreciate the quick reply. It's nice to have a good list in front of me to refer to. It was getting hard to keep track of what I really needed next. I think the brake upgrades, lsd and safety equip (cage, seats, etc.) are what I'll focus on for now. I'll update as I go with pictures and info.

Thanks!

RX_Lucky7

So, I said I'd update as I go so here is what I've done since the last post -

Upgraded brake system -
Installed MazdaTrix SS braided lines
Rebuilt calipers
Porterfield Carbon Kevlar front pads
Hawk Ferro Carbon rear pads
Replaced Master Cylinder w/ high pressure oem
Brake MC brace installed

Control System -
Greddy ProfecB Spec II installed - awesome btw
Greddy Emanage Blue - yet to be installed but so far I've read good things

Safety/etc -
Sparco seats ordered and on their way

Feedback? I'm basically going off of that list you posted (Evil Aviator) and knocking things off as I can afford/have time to work on them.

btbaus

iTrader: (3)

how do u like the corksport intercooler? was it easy to install? etc...

boosted414

iTrader: (30)

You want to shoot for 300-350hp for a drift car (atleast the 240 guys do). Having more is nice but this keeps our engines somewhat reliable. Some other stuff you may want to think about are upgraded tie rod ends and bigger sway bars.

RX_Lucky7

I will definitely check out options for those - I just had a dyno done - 318whp. I'm working on safety stuff as a priority currently - tie rod ends and sway bar kind of enter into that category so I'll check it out. More power will come later. (better intake, bigger injectors, weight reduction etc) Thanks for the input!

Hypertek

iTrader: (3)

there is a drift forum here
https://www.rx7club.com/drifting-226/

Alot of guys run with no rear sway bar.
Sounds like your all ready to go. as your experience increases, than your mods should as well.

Evil Aviator

Did you get FIA-approved seats?

(See the column labeled HOMOL #)
http://www.sparcousa.com/resourceFiles/26.pdf

Those are suspension items rather than safety items. Here are some examples of the drifting tie rod ends:
http://www.mazdatrix.com/SteeringAngle.htm
http://www.rhdjapan.com/super-now-ti...d3s-se3p-51435

RX_Lucky7

Hey, I didn't mean to ignore your question about the intercooler - It works excellent and looks great. Install was fairly easy - aside from a small omitted detail in the middle of the directions; something along the lines of (...and attach the pipes ) - it doesn't say where or how to make the holes that are needed. Left me wondering if there was some stock space I was missing. Other than that little detail everything was simple and clean.

RX_Lucky7

Did you get FIA-approved seats?: Here's the link http://www.sparcousa.com/pseats_street.asp?id=199

jjcobm

iTrader: (18)

Love your wheels, what offset are you running front and rear?

If you haven't already, upgrade the rear suspension. DTSS eliminators, trailing arm bushings, front diff bushing, toe links, ect. DO NOT forget to also add a pinion snubber since you will be drifting and putting a lot of strain on the drivetrain. As far as individual rear camber adjusters, I haven't had luck with them and the stock links or similar seem to be the best.

10yearrx7

iTrader: (2)

How is your A/F ratio? Stock ecu and injectors sounds scary for a bnr stage 3 and for 318 whp.

Evil Aviator

Oh crud, those are street seats that are not legal for racing in most track events. I recommend that you check with your drifting rules to see if they will allow you to use those seats. If not, then you may want to return them and get some FIA seats.

Also, your brake hard lines are supposed to clip on to the strut body. I don't think it is safe to leave them swaying in the breeze like that, as they are very prone to breaking when flexed. Only the braided hose portion should be in a position to flex. See the suspension section of the factory service manual for pictures.

RX_Lucky7

Thanks for the heads up about the seats - put a stop on the order and haven't purchased a different set because I'm waiting to hear back from my contact at Formula D.

I did have a few questions though -

I just purchased a manual rack and am installing it this week - will post pics. While I'm down there, I was considering "shimming" my rack/tie rod ends for more steering angle - I've read every thread I can find, including those on FC3Spro.com, but there are no detailed write ups as far as I know.
1. Is it a good idea?
2. Is 0.25'' the proper amount for the tie rod ends?
3. Proper amount for steering rack?
4. Any definitive answers on if/how much bumpsteer may be induced by such mods?
(I know there are kits available, but they seem to be very simple designs that may be unnecessary from what I understand)

Next, I will be installing my emanage blue this week as well - waiting on the harness/software from Greddy - I want to upgrade my injectors while I'm doing so. I'll never run higher than 13psi and I am within 50whp of my end goals for competition.
1. Are 650cc primaries/850cc secondaries large enough for my what I want?
2. RC engineering/Venom reliable brands?

Progress:

Followed instructions on this site/FC3Spro.com for cleaning up/re grounding everything in the engine.

Built and installed cold air intake using various instructions and ideas from other member.

Installed cabin fire extinguisher.

Installed push-push button start/kill switch.

I'll post pictures asap - our dog literally ate the digital camera cable that goes to the computer.

Thanks for reading and for your help!

tuscanidream

iTrader: (6)

I have no idea what your car needs as I'm still a roto newb, but you have to get Drifting 101 DVD. I have it (just to watch) and it's awesome.

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

That injector combo will be able to support about 350 whp - 375whp, but it will be nearing the limits of the injectors. Here's a calculator tool for fueling: http://www.rx7.com/cgi-local/3rdgencalc.cgi. Keep in mind that it's only a rough estimate since it doesn't take into account the air/fuel ratio you're using under full boost (among other things).

RC is a good brand. Venom has some very negative feedback, so I would be careful (https://www.rx7club.com/shops-part-suppliers-vendors-206/do-not-buy-venom-injectors-728911/). It mainly seems to be ebay scams, so a legitimate vendor may be ok.

Evil Aviator

The last rules I saw for Formula D required FIA seats, FIA 5 or 6-point harness depending on the seat inclination, SNELL/FIA/BS helmet, welded-in DOM roll cage (similar to SCCA specs), external electrical cut-off switch, hood pins, 2-lb fire extinguisher, and SFI fire suit. I recommend that you get a current rulebook before you make any more modifications to your car.

You should look into getting a HANS neck restraint if you are going to race on the big tracks like that. A fuel cell and surge tank would be a good idea. Also, the SFI 45.1 roll bar padding is much better than that regular foam stuff.

See the fuel calculator posted by RotaryRocket88 or use the one on the RC Engineering website. Keep in mind that some fuel injectors are rated at 3bar, while others (such as the stock Densos) are rated at 2.5bar. Also, I don't think the online calculators take into account any injector dead time.

RC Engineering, Denso, Siemens, and Bosch all make decent fuel injectors. Venom isn't so good. Injector Dynamics makes excellent injectors, and you can order them to fit your stock fuel rail.

K-Tune

iTrader: (26)

you need a real battery hold-down.

TheAbsence

iTrader: (19)

Whoa, you're removing power steering on your drift car? Go watch an in-car view of a drifter and I think you may change your mind about that. Drifters have to spin that wheel quick and I can't imagine using a manual rack.

Evil Aviator

Yeah, I wouldn't even drive it like that on the street. I hope that isn't a conductive metal rod over the terminals, lol.

The power rack is 2.7 turns lock-to-lock, and the manual rack is 3.6 turns lock-to-lock. I am not sure what is better for drifting, but the manual rack is better for actual racing (what you guys call "time attack"). The power rack is better for parallel parking.

RX_Lucky7

Well... after a house fire, move, months of fighting with greddy about why my software and usb cable never arrived I am back on track (so to speak) making progress with the car. Here is what is happening currently;

Fuel system is being replaced/upgraded;

-Following ReTed's instructions (picture, rather) for parallel system

-All parts have arrived aside from the injectors (waiting for distributor), SS lines themselves and the -6AN to stock hardline (don't know the technical name) adapters; this is because through hours of frustrating searches, I have come up empty as to what exact size is needed - ie -6AN to -5AN (using a flare tool and tube nuts) ??? Any input here is appreciated.

-AEM Wideband/Prosport EGT gauges have arrived - having my A pillar/dual gauge pod fiberglassed at a friends shop to avoid the janky screwed in look :-P

-Found a 6pt cage set up that is within FIA regulations in a friend's FC - I've got the schematics and am having it fabricated at a local diesel shop (networking is good - will post pics when I have them.

-After months of research (I've had time while dealing with Greddy about software situation) I've decided to go ahead with using the Emanage because I've already invested the $$ and time... I'll see how it turns out and can always switch to a haltech later.

There will be details and pictures up as soon as I have finished the current leg of the project.

RX_Lucky7

Alrighty then... It's been several months since I've posted any progress on the FC - but that doesn't mean nothing's been getting done Side note: I will add photos asap for everyone. Also, anyone considering doing anything I've done - I think I've found every write up available on every single thing I did... Made some mistakes and wound up successful... in other words, if you have questions please feel free to ask as I have extensive information and less extensive knowledge

During the course of my tinkering I found and purchased a black widebody 87' n/a for about a grand... it had about 6k worth of parts with it, so I took what I needed and sold the rest... Ended up being about a $500 profit, not including the parts I got out of it.

(Yay for CL deals) the list of things I kept:
-Recarro Black Labels/pre-fabbed stationary rails (not the seats I want in the end, but okay for now)
-Greddy Trust turbo back exhaust
-Complete (minus front carpet) black/gray interior
-Imported S5 turbo engine, harness, trans and turbo (unknown mileage or condition) will be good for resale, later build and spare parts
-Carbon fiber sunroof (I'd never buy one of these, but why not use it since I had it?)
-Vented fiberglass hood (edit: after spending time to paint it, it doesn't fit properly... going with aluminum N/A hood)

That was my little score Now on to the work that's been done...
__________________________________________________ ____________________

*New exhaust from DP back - same size and sounds the same, purely cosmetic purposes as my previous exhaust had a severely bent muffler tip.
*Parallel fuel system, Aeromotive FPR, 750cc primaries/1000cc secondaries. SS lines wherever possible etc.
*Oil injector removal - now premixing with great results
*Removal/reseal complete intake, exhaust and turbo - everything has been removed, inspected and reinstalled with new seals. Might as well do it right, right?
*Intake components powdercoated by a friend who built a giant oven in his wearhouse and had spare time (+15hp
*Black interior swap minus front carpet (again, just cosmetic - I had it, so why not?)
*Battery has been properly relocated to passenger side bin - lid closes and everything
*Coolant reservoir moved to stock battery location - another "why not?" mod - looked like it blocked a little airflow to the IC/RAD (how much is debatable)
*KOYO Radiator installed
*Taurus electric fan installed correctly with thermoswitch
*Recarro seats/HKS harnesses installed (harnesses are mated to a specially fabbed strut bar/stock lap belt locations - this will be upgraded when the roll cage is finished towards the middle of March)
*Vented fiberglass hood painted, installed then removed in favor of an aluminum N/A hood... Cleaner, better fit and I think hood pins are stupid unless you drive at 130mph+ everywhere you go... and you like drilling holes in things.
***And for the kicker... Greddy Emanage Blue installed***

Through the course of all these things I found many, many things that had been done wrong by the shop that did the swap... including hacked up ecu wires that were simply tangled then wrapped in electrical tape, vacuum lines heading in entirely the wrong directions, improperly tightened bolts/nuts, broken bolts, disintegrated seals etc etc. Moral of the story; don't trust unwarrantied work!

Also, Greddy has terrible customer service and there is almost no information on this forum or the Yahoo forum on using the emanage blue system... Greddy absolutely refuses to answer questions in real time - you are required to email them with any q's about THEIR product... That being said, I took my time installing it and did it correctly - the car now idles and drives okay, but has trouble once the secondary injectors kick on - dumping fuel in the system. I may be switching to a different control unit (maybe stand alone if money permits) if I cannot get the thing running properly. Fouled up sparkplugs are becoming a hassle to replace.

So, as I said above, I will upload pictures asap... If anyone has any questions about my experience, I will help where I can - I intend to do extensive write ups on everything mentioned above when I have free time. I have links to hard to find info if anyone is stumped...

Also, if anyone has experience with tuning a turbo rotary and/or specifically the Emanage system (obviously I've searched) and would be willing to IM or email back and forth for a bit, I would be most appreciative. There are 0 shops in Oregon with experience tuning a rotary on Greddy software. I have exhausted every available resource.

Thank you to those of you who've been helpful so far.

Happy burnouts