new purchase = new project
09-05-10, 09:29 AM
#26
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Here's what we have planned for the 88 vert: so far all that's been done to it is new wheels and tires - I have (or have ordered) the following parts and will install next week
new tires $350
stock'ish' wheels $50 (15" alloys from a '99 626 - I've never really been impressed with most A/M wheels I've seen over the years - fitment wise - I might put the 18" alloys from a late Speed3 on there later - I might have to go A/M to get enough contact for the output)
new seat leather $300
new carpet $150
headlamp assembly $50
power antenna $75
new stereo head unit $200
short throw shifter $20
new thermostat & gasket & rad cap $50
KYB AGX Adjustable Shocks $500 - this is going to be a street car and the roads around here are pretty rough, I figure this is a good starting point - If they don't meet my needs on the street I can go to coilovers later - but I don't really see that happening (existing struts are worn out)
New brake pads $100 - existing are starting to squeak in that 'change me soon' way when it gets pretty close to the metal
Infinity Reference speakers for headrest, dash, doors and behind seats - and two low power amps $350
I figure another $100 for filters, plugs and wires for a tune-up
& another $100 for replacing various suspension bushings that I find worn out
Also, after discussing engine upgrade options with my wife, we are definitely leaning towards the 20B as it will provide us with a much more noticable power increase during our normal street driving (it's not like you wind those turbos up and go nuts every time you take your 7 out on the street - I will often make it all the way to work and back without running higher than 3500 RPM) If you look at it from the perspective of a cost benefit analysis (and analyse the regular utilization and mean performance gains (not just peak HP) a 20B is a much better option than a 13B.
However, due to the added expense of a 20B swap - there is a strong possibility that the swap project may be pushed back a year - so that we can save up for it and do it right all at once.
Until then, we are bring the car back to a mostly stock, like new state and will enjoy it as is.
One thing, the car is black with gray interior, due to being uncertain if we could match the existing gray carpet and leather, we went with black carpet and leather seats and I will dye the carpet in the door panels and maybe the gray leather inserts too. Also, I'll paint the current wheels black and I may black-out the taillights. I like the idea of a solid black cruiser.
new tires $350
stock'ish' wheels $50 (15" alloys from a '99 626 - I've never really been impressed with most A/M wheels I've seen over the years - fitment wise - I might put the 18" alloys from a late Speed3 on there later - I might have to go A/M to get enough contact for the output)
new seat leather $300
new carpet $150
headlamp assembly $50
power antenna $75
new stereo head unit $200
short throw shifter $20
new thermostat & gasket & rad cap $50
KYB AGX Adjustable Shocks $500 - this is going to be a street car and the roads around here are pretty rough, I figure this is a good starting point - If they don't meet my needs on the street I can go to coilovers later - but I don't really see that happening (existing struts are worn out)
New brake pads $100 - existing are starting to squeak in that 'change me soon' way when it gets pretty close to the metal
Infinity Reference speakers for headrest, dash, doors and behind seats - and two low power amps $350
I figure another $100 for filters, plugs and wires for a tune-up
& another $100 for replacing various suspension bushings that I find worn out
Also, after discussing engine upgrade options with my wife, we are definitely leaning towards the 20B as it will provide us with a much more noticable power increase during our normal street driving (it's not like you wind those turbos up and go nuts every time you take your 7 out on the street - I will often make it all the way to work and back without running higher than 3500 RPM) If you look at it from the perspective of a cost benefit analysis (and analyse the regular utilization and mean performance gains (not just peak HP) a 20B is a much better option than a 13B.
However, due to the added expense of a 20B swap - there is a strong possibility that the swap project may be pushed back a year - so that we can save up for it and do it right all at once.
Until then, we are bring the car back to a mostly stock, like new state and will enjoy it as is.
One thing, the car is black with gray interior, due to being uncertain if we could match the existing gray carpet and leather, we went with black carpet and leather seats and I will dye the carpet in the door panels and maybe the gray leather inserts too. Also, I'll paint the current wheels black and I may black-out the taillights. I like the idea of a solid black cruiser.
09-05-10, 03:42 PM
#29
It could, just go with a street port or something. It's not like you lose all drivability with a larger port. The sound of an N/A is much better IMO, but if you get a properly sized turbo, you can get a very linear response/power band which will be MUCH better for a street car.
09-05-10, 04:01 PM
#30
lite rotary = easy push
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swap in a s4 13bt buy a jdm engine for 800 and rebuild and bridgeport it by yourself for 1700 or get some one to do it for 3000... or you could rebuild,bridgeport and turbo your n/a you will also need to get a custom drive shaft made or buy one from mazdatrix
once thats done upgrade to a bnr stage 4 turbo www.bnrsupercars.com
upgrade the ems easiest way is the rtek 2.1 www.digitaltuning.com but then you have to keep the stock afm or go full stand alone like megasquirt or haltech range from 400-1500
then upgrade to a parallel fuel system with bigger injectors and fuel pressure regulator 250-400
upgrade to straight pipe exhaust 200-600
you should make 380 - 400 rwhp
then make it more reliable by removing the emissions junk and rats nest and add an e-fan
once thats done upgrade to a bnr stage 4 turbo www.bnrsupercars.com
upgrade the ems easiest way is the rtek 2.1 www.digitaltuning.com but then you have to keep the stock afm or go full stand alone like megasquirt or haltech range from 400-1500
then upgrade to a parallel fuel system with bigger injectors and fuel pressure regulator 250-400
upgrade to straight pipe exhaust 200-600
you should make 380 - 400 rwhp
then make it more reliable by removing the emissions junk and rats nest and add an e-fan
09-05-10, 08:58 PM
#32
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I'll go with a turbo on the 20B. I'm looking for a clean and simple setup, though the idea of an e cutout and a pair of maps for a 'stoplight challenge/track' mode and a quiet unassuming 'cruiser' mode sounds like a lot of fun. I don't want to run super gigantic tires & I don't see the point in spending a lot of money on a big turbo just so I can loose traction when I'm at speed. It just sounds dangerous to me. However, I don't know of a small turbo that will keep up with a 20B that's wound up to 8K RPM. My understanding is that sequencial setups are expensive and prone to malfunction. What are my options - turbo wise? Reliability is important, this will never be my DD, but I don't want to drop 10K+ in an engine only to blow it up 300 miles down the road. (even if I did those in an hour and a half
) I would like to build this thing up and then enjoy having a well balanced and fast toy. It will spend most of it's time on the street (in AR they don't pay too much attention to things like emissions or being 'street legal' so long as I don't sound like a chainsaw competition on wheels - when I pass a cop - I can pretty much do whatever I want to the car.)
So, now that a 20B turbo setup is the current favorite, where do we go from here?
Should I look for a TII donor car to use the tranny & drivetrain or is there are better option? I had an RX-8 until I traded it in around this time last year and I liked the 6-speed it had, but I've heard that those don't hold up too well to a lot of power (I've read that the gears are too soft and strip under load) - however I also understand that it would allow me to bring the engine further back and maintain the stock shifter position . . . I can live with a custom driveshaft, those are pretty much par for the course in any Mopar build up I've ever done in the past (it's hard to find OE driveshafts that old that will balance out and take the load), but I do not want to have to cut up the body. Will a tremec fit? I would also be concerned about putting a non-mazda transmission in there as most were not designed to wind up like a rotary and I don't want to spend a weekend hammering dents out fo the floorboard because third gear shattered and blew up the tranny. What are my options here?
Also, I understand that I'm pretty much limited to a stand alone A/M/ ecu, what is available that works well with a 20B? Every build I've ever done in the past, the engine was managed by a 4bbl and a distributor, fiddling with ECUs is new territory for me. However, I am a computer programmer with an engineering background so I figure I can get up to speed fairly quickly after I'm pointed in the right direction. What are the pros and cons of each? What communication protocols do these units use? can I just plug into them with a USB cord & my laptop? can I write my own app to interface with the module? how extensive is the unit's ability to control the vehicle's systems? is it strictly fuel and ignition management, or can I configure it to control or trigger anything I want? Are there wire harnesses available or am I pretty much going to have to dust off my E.E. hat and dig up a soldering iron?
) I would like to build this thing up and then enjoy having a well balanced and fast toy. It will spend most of it's time on the street (in AR they don't pay too much attention to things like emissions or being 'street legal' so long as I don't sound like a chainsaw competition on wheels - when I pass a cop - I can pretty much do whatever I want to the car.) So, now that a 20B turbo setup is the current favorite, where do we go from here?
Should I look for a TII donor car to use the tranny & drivetrain or is there are better option? I had an RX-8 until I traded it in around this time last year and I liked the 6-speed it had, but I've heard that those don't hold up too well to a lot of power (I've read that the gears are too soft and strip under load) - however I also understand that it would allow me to bring the engine further back and maintain the stock shifter position . . . I can live with a custom driveshaft, those are pretty much par for the course in any Mopar build up I've ever done in the past (it's hard to find OE driveshafts that old that will balance out and take the load), but I do not want to have to cut up the body. Will a tremec fit? I would also be concerned about putting a non-mazda transmission in there as most were not designed to wind up like a rotary and I don't want to spend a weekend hammering dents out fo the floorboard because third gear shattered and blew up the tranny. What are my options here?
Also, I understand that I'm pretty much limited to a stand alone A/M/ ecu, what is available that works well with a 20B? Every build I've ever done in the past, the engine was managed by a 4bbl and a distributor, fiddling with ECUs is new territory for me. However, I am a computer programmer with an engineering background so I figure I can get up to speed fairly quickly after I'm pointed in the right direction. What are the pros and cons of each? What communication protocols do these units use? can I just plug into them with a USB cord & my laptop? can I write my own app to interface with the module? how extensive is the unit's ability to control the vehicle's systems? is it strictly fuel and ignition management, or can I configure it to control or trigger anything I want? Are there wire harnesses available or am I pretty much going to have to dust off my E.E. hat and dig up a soldering iron?
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