New Pics. of my '87 TII
New Pics. of my '87 TII
New pics. are up as I promised. Take a look at her even if you don't want to buy her.
Todd
http://members.***.net/toddkageals
Todd
http://members.***.net/toddkageals
Re: New Pics. of my '87 TII
Originally posted by akageals
New pics. are up as I promised. Take a look at her even if you don't want to buy her.
Todd
http://members.***.net/toddkageals
New pics. are up as I promised. Take a look at her even if you don't want to buy her.
Todd
http://members.***.net/toddkageals
My eyes, I'm blinded by the over-contrasted pics of your beautiful car.
Luckily I got mad touchup skills
akageals - can we get some pics of the engine bay, exhaust, wheel closeups, etc.??



Details (from akageals).
I purchased this car two years ago from its second owner who had it for the last ten years. He had a new engine installed by a local Mazda dealer. The engine was NEW, not rebuilt. The car was in rough shape but ran well and had a straight body. I bought it as a “project car” and have almost totally restored it over the last two years. The car is now my daily driver. This car is FAST, fun, and reliable. Then engine runs perfectly, makes full boost (spare turbo included but not needed, purchased it “just in case”), idles smoothly even with the A/C on and get’s good mileage (for a TII . The following parts have been replaced as part of the restoration (I’m sure I have forgotten some of the things that were replaced), new OEM Mazda parts were used except where noted:
Mechanical:
• Eibach Springs
• Tokico Shocks
• Mazda Competition Parts polyurethane suspension bushings (all front bushings replaced)
• Ball Joints
• Tie Rods
• Tie Rod Ends
• Mazda Competition Parts Transmission Mounts
• Mazda Competition Parts Differential Mount
• Mazda Competition Parts Engine Mounts
• Clutch / T.O. Bearing / Pilot Bearing / Pressure Plate (A.C.T. Upgrade)
• Flywheel
• Clutch Master and Slave Cylinders including hydraulic hose
• Rear Wheel Bearings
• Intake Gaskets and O-Rings in intake manifold
• Upper and Lower Radiator Hoses
• ALL engine sensors
• Plugs / Wires / Filters
• Radiator Flushed / Filled
• Water Pump and Housing
• Thermostat
• Water Filler Neck
• Fuel Injectors (cleaned / rebuilt)
• Drive Shaft
• Mazda Competition Parts Stainless Steel Oil Cooler Lines
• A/C converted to R134 (New Dryer Installed)
• Shifter Bushings
• Brake Pads (Rotors turned and new hardware kits installed)
• Brake Master Cylinder
• Steering Rack (Rebuilt)
• Exhaust Gaskets (Manifold and Turbo)
• Down pipe and main cat pipe (main cat can be reinstalled)
• I’m sure I have forgotten some things!
Exterior:
• Repainted original black color in 2001 – Body shop did a BEAUTIFUL job, car looks new, you can’t tell it’s a repaint.
• One small parking lot ding on the passenger door, otherwise perfect
Interior:
• All surfaces cleaned / restored
• Excellent Condition
• New Carpet
• All accessories work except the rear hatch wiper (common switch problem)
Asking $4500.00
Email toddkageals@***.net
Luckily I got mad touchup skills

akageals - can we get some pics of the engine bay, exhaust, wheel closeups, etc.??



Details (from akageals).
I purchased this car two years ago from its second owner who had it for the last ten years. He had a new engine installed by a local Mazda dealer. The engine was NEW, not rebuilt. The car was in rough shape but ran well and had a straight body. I bought it as a “project car” and have almost totally restored it over the last two years. The car is now my daily driver. This car is FAST, fun, and reliable. Then engine runs perfectly, makes full boost (spare turbo included but not needed, purchased it “just in case”), idles smoothly even with the A/C on and get’s good mileage (for a TII . The following parts have been replaced as part of the restoration (I’m sure I have forgotten some of the things that were replaced), new OEM Mazda parts were used except where noted:
Mechanical:
• Eibach Springs
• Tokico Shocks
• Mazda Competition Parts polyurethane suspension bushings (all front bushings replaced)
• Ball Joints
• Tie Rods
• Tie Rod Ends
• Mazda Competition Parts Transmission Mounts
• Mazda Competition Parts Differential Mount
• Mazda Competition Parts Engine Mounts
• Clutch / T.O. Bearing / Pilot Bearing / Pressure Plate (A.C.T. Upgrade)
• Flywheel
• Clutch Master and Slave Cylinders including hydraulic hose
• Rear Wheel Bearings
• Intake Gaskets and O-Rings in intake manifold
• Upper and Lower Radiator Hoses
• ALL engine sensors
• Plugs / Wires / Filters
• Radiator Flushed / Filled
• Water Pump and Housing
• Thermostat
• Water Filler Neck
• Fuel Injectors (cleaned / rebuilt)
• Drive Shaft
• Mazda Competition Parts Stainless Steel Oil Cooler Lines
• A/C converted to R134 (New Dryer Installed)
• Shifter Bushings
• Brake Pads (Rotors turned and new hardware kits installed)
• Brake Master Cylinder
• Steering Rack (Rebuilt)
• Exhaust Gaskets (Manifold and Turbo)
• Down pipe and main cat pipe (main cat can be reinstalled)
• I’m sure I have forgotten some things!
Exterior:
• Repainted original black color in 2001 – Body shop did a BEAUTIFUL job, car looks new, you can’t tell it’s a repaint.
• One small parking lot ding on the passenger door, otherwise perfect
Interior:
• All surfaces cleaned / restored
• Excellent Condition
• New Carpet
• All accessories work except the rear hatch wiper (common switch problem)
Asking $4500.00
Email toddkageals@***.net
Good job touching up those pics. . What did you do to them? Turn the contrast down? I tried turning the brighness up with photoshop but it did not do whole lot. By the way....the touchups make the seats look dirty/water stained (they are not like that at all, they are very clean). I also shampooed the carpet on the drivers side and it looks much better now.
Todd
Todd
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paint shop pro does much better for basic touchups. Use the clarify filter to even out the lighting, then try the various "auto enhance contrast" settings to add warmth, lightness, and decrease overall light volume.
From the camera side, you want to use as much ambient light and just a little bit of flash fill to reduce the sharp shadows. If your camera has nightvision, you can use nightvision in the daytime with the lowest exposure setting and minor flash fill to add warmth.
It's hard to avoid sharp shadows during the daytime (which confuses the camera) and washing out your pics in the nightime by using "blinding flash." I'm still having problems with getting it right too from the camera side
You did a good job of avoiding the "blues" in bright sunlight with no cloud cover though (50 brownie points)
From the camera side, you want to use as much ambient light and just a little bit of flash fill to reduce the sharp shadows. If your camera has nightvision, you can use nightvision in the daytime with the lowest exposure setting and minor flash fill to add warmth.
It's hard to avoid sharp shadows during the daytime (which confuses the camera) and washing out your pics in the nightime by using "blinding flash." I'm still having problems with getting it right too from the camera side

You did a good job of avoiding the "blues" in bright sunlight with no cloud cover though (50 brownie points)
Last edited by vaughnc; Dec 29, 2002 at 10:21 PM.
Well....actually the camera does everything for me (focus, exposure, etc.). I used an Olympus digicam. I didn't use the flash at all but the sun was shining very brightly. Thanks for the suggestions.
Todd
Todd
where did you get the polyurethane suspension and transmission mounts from. my car's tranny is having some serious issues and needs new mounts badly otherwise i'm worried that it's just going to fall out while i'm driving one day.
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