Hey, im the proud owner of a new(to me!) 1988 10AE.

I havnt had much experience at all with rotaries, so bear with me. However, im not a total technical retard when it comes to cars so

Anyways, i wanted to know a couple things:
Snow is on the horizon here in CT, and (even though it might not be for a month) i wanted to know what the best thing to do is when putting the car away for the winter. Drain all the fuilds? (oil, gas, radiator etc?)
What sort of problems will i have starting it up come spring?

Also, one more specific question, the guy who owned the car didnt really know much about it. From what i have seen, it *looks* to me like the cold start has been disabled. When started (cold) the car will sit around 1k rpms. When i blip the throttle, it goes up to 2k and settles back to 1.5k, then slowly back down to the 750. It is a little rough coming down, sounds like some misfiring, but im not too sure. Its mostly around 1200 rpm to 1000 rpm.
Ill be able to do a more thorough examination over the weekend, so ill be back w/ more info.
BTW the car has a downpipe and FCD. To my knowledge, that is all.

Any thoughts/input appreciated
Thanks in advance
-Jack

EDIT: spelling

 

Just wanted to add, i can see it coming now: "Search" search button etc etc followed by many other somewhat funny pictures.

I tried, couldnt really find anything specific enough!
If anyone can take the time to help, it would be much appreicated

 

I don't think you want to drain your fluids....changing them is a good idea. Take your battery out obviously, maybe put a bit more air the tires. Add fuel stabilizer. That's all I can think of.....worked for me the past two winters. Also depending on where you store it, might want to put some steel wool in your muffler so no rodents get in there.

 

I believe when you cold start a rotary it is normal for it to sit around 1500 RPM untill it warms up. Then it should be idling around 750.

 

https://www.rx7club.com/search.php?s...der=descending

 

Wash and wax the car. Change the coolant and brake fluid, then put fuel stabilizer in the tank. Drive it for around 20 minutes to heat up the engine, then change the oil while the engine is warm. Park it in the garage and air up the tires to about 50 PSI. By this time, the engine should have cooled. Pull the leading (lower) two spark plugs and fog the engine liberally with a proper fogging oil. Replace plugs. Disconnect battery, bring inside and connect a float charger. Best to cover the car with a thick blanket to protect paint and keep dust off. Use an ultrasonic rodent repeller to keep the critters away.

In the summer, start her up (lots of smoke from the fogging oil) and allow the car to completely warm up. Drive carefully for a few days, then drive normally.

Probably the switch at the lower drivers corner of the rad is unplugged. If that switch has been unplugged, when the car starts, it should go to roughly 1.5K until it warms up. It should then settle at 750. Lots of reasons for high idles, from vacuum leaks to a misadjusted TPS to stuck cold start cam/thermowax.

If you start modding more, you will want to look at fuel mods. The FCD fools the ECU to think there is less boost then there actually is, which can result in a lean condition...

 

um some tires aren't rated for 50 psi are they???

 

most are 44 i believe

 

um some tires aren't rated for 50 psi are they???