evildeadbadguy

Hey guys just made a lovely purchase of an '87 non turbo rx-7...factory s4 motor....as i bought it for $250 she has a bit of rust and some sever driveability problems ( literally takes 30 seconds to get to 60mph), anywho right off the bat I have set my idle ( which is a steady 750rpm but lumpy) and my tps, which is also in spec. I also installed some new plugs ( NGK) and wires (NGK), fuel filter,and air filter. As of right now im reading as much as i can about 6PI, as my 5/6 are not operating....which i am lead to believe is caused by the gasket between my main cat( straight pipe off of manifold to main cat) and the downpipe is gone, so there is a pretty big exhaust leak there..no velocity to open valves...then from there time to test some fuel pressure...Question for the members....would i A: benefit from attempting to run my 5/6 as per factory, or converting to possibly the rpm switch/switching solenoid? I'm not looking to mod it out or anything, its an amazing machine as is, and she will be a daily also

thanks, jim

also pulled the plugs, which have about 2 hours of time on them now...#2 rear rotor seems to be firing fine, tad rich but i'll take it....My #1 however both leading and trailing seem unfired trailing plug on #1 also had a wee bit of oil on it....

on a side note i have also timed her in as per FSM with compression right around 85 on the bumps

BrettLinton7

iTrader: (33)

Nice find, and welcome to the club. I myself have an 87 n/a too.... And for the 5th/6th ports, both ways you mentioned would work just the same. With your sticky exhaust situation, I'd go for the switch option instead of stock. There's a great thread in the archives that says how to go about fixing that.

ericgrau

iTrader: (1)

Your 0-60 is 30 seconds and you're worried about the 5th and 6th ports and slapping on an exhaust??

Check the engine compression. Check coolant seals using www.aaroncake.net. Check for smoke out the tail. Do that and get a buyer's guide and see if the engine is good. Engine's bad? Okay, time to stop wasting your money until you're ready to pay 2-3 grand for a new engine. Engine's good? Okay, get a Haynes manual or use the FSM in the forum FAQ and do everything in chapter 1. Be safe and assume none of it has been done in the last 30,000+ miles. Now find what other real problems it has and fix them. You need to fix that thing before you worry about anything else.

Stock is under 8 seconds on the 0-60. The 5th and 6th ports and an exhaust are worth less than 1 second each.

evildeadbadguy

done, and im still reading the fsm, the whole thing...and i understand the 5/6 dont hurt me THAT much but they are still not functioning which is a problem.

ericgrau

iTrader: (1)

Cool, then keep it up and fix her up. I'm saying you can save the 5/6 ports aka auxillary ports for later without worry. Even a noisy exhaust leak is just noise and pollution. It's gonna be a while to take care of everything else. Then you can do a forum search on them to make sure they really aren't operating (there's plenty of info available). If so, they're usually just stuck or the owner removed or upgraded the catalytic converter. A search is also a good way to solve most other problems. If not, then you start a thread with the individual problem. Take the problems one at a time, and put the most important ones first. Otherwise failing to fix something could snowball into more broken items, all the way up to and including a blown engine. Start with basic maintenance & tune-up items, then see what problems are still left. Don't jump into the popular "fixes" unless you've done the basic maintenance and figure out what is causing your problem. Even so, replacing parts that commonly fail, if yours are old, is still a good idea even if they're not broken.

evildeadbadguy

well i was out dinkin around, checked fuel tank sock, not to bad...not enough to give me hell like this.....but whenever i pull my plugs after a run, rotor side #2 looks good, but rotor side #1 damn near soaks in oil....i think you were right man... mite be rebuildin time

question for you guys...should my secondary injectors be clickin at idle?

Update----secondary injector connectors were goners..replaced.. I now have the pump back in with a new sock on it. I also did the compression test the right way haha and got some solid numbers just under 100. I'm getting there, i'm thinking i am going to remove all emissions as well..love indiana for that reason only

later