2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

new/light weight output/eccentric shaft

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Old Jan 5, 2005 | 04:54 PM
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new/light weight output/eccentric shaft

does anyone know where I can get a new or light weight output (eccentric) shaft for an 87 FC T2?
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Old Jan 5, 2005 | 05:55 PM
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and also what pulley set do you think is the best, and what light weight flywheel?
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Old Jan 5, 2005 | 06:08 PM
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I think you will have to pay a premium for a lightened eshaft with the structural integrity of the stock one.

You're best bet is to go lightweight flywheel, and if you're rebuilding, buy some lighter 89-95 rotors with the appropriate counterweight.
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Old Jan 5, 2005 | 08:09 PM
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WHY?
The eccentric shaft spins at the center of the rotation, so dropping weight would do very little.
Balance that against the shear strength the unit has to be under loads, and you get something that just cannot be lightened that much.

Do you have a lightened flywheel?
That would probably make more difference.


-Ted
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Old Jan 6, 2005 | 07:21 AM
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I plan on getting a lightened flywheel, I was skepticul about the eccentric shaft, I wasn't sure if they made an aftermarket one or if it would help any. Thanks for the help. I forget who makes them but I plan om putting in two new racing rotors with 3mm apex seals, it's something about there gears that's special that makes them racing rotors. Anyway, yes I am rebuilding, it needs two new rotors, one is damaged and might as well replace both while I'm at it.

Last edited by Horse; Jan 6, 2005 at 07:25 AM.
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Old Jan 6, 2005 | 09:37 AM
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Don't waste your money on the 3mm seals.... I'm not going to go into a big debate about it, but search for some threads and you'll find out why....

I have the ACT 14/LB lightened flywheel, i like it a lot... Although I'd probably go for the 9.9Lb flywheel because they take the extra 4Lbs of metal off the outer edge.... (where the painted spots are on my flywheel) 4 lbs doesn't seem like much, but its all at the OUTER edge of the flywheel where rotational inertia is the greatest.. its going to make a big difference.

HOWEVER... If i were you, I'd would get S5 rotors.... WHY... After putting my lightened flywheel in and an S4 Automatic counterweight...... I got to thinking...... they didn't make an Automatic TII..... guess what.. the counter weight isn't right cause the s4 N/A rotors are heavier than the TII rotors..... HOWEVER.. they DID make a 3rd gen automatic... and the 3rd gen rotors weigh the same as the s5 TII rotors..... so a counter weight from an auto 3rd gen will be perfect for the s5 rotors!!! But I'm SOL for the s4 rotors i have on my car!!

Last edited by YearsOfDecay; Jan 6, 2005 at 09:42 AM.
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Old Jan 6, 2005 | 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by YearsOfDecay
HOWEVER... If i were you, I'd would get S5 rotors.... WHY... After putting my lightened flywheel in and an S4 Automatic counterweight...... I got to thinking...... they didn't make an Automatic TII..... guess what.. the counter weight isn't right cause the s4 N/A rotors are heavier than the TII rotors..... HOWEVER.. they DID make a 3rd gen automatic... and the 3rd gen rotors weigh the same as the s5 TII rotors..... so a counter weight from an auto 3rd gen will be perfect for the s5 rotors!!! But I'm SOL for the s4 rotors i have on my car!!
S4 N/A rotors are identical in weight to S4 TII rotors. If you used a S4 automatic counterweight with S4 rotors, you are using the right counterweight.

S5 N/A rotors are indentical in weight to S5 TII rotors, and FD rotors, and RE rotors.

Also, they did make S4 TII automatics, in Japan. Those engines use the exact same rear counterweight as the S4 N/A ones. Identical part numbers.

Lastly, the rear counterweight for S5 N/A automatics is the exact same part number as the FD one: the parts are identical.
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