satch

iTrader: (1)

In addition to what AGreen stated, pin 2B is not good at all, 2F is a bit high there, 2G needs to be measured w/the car completely warmed up, meaning at least 20 minutes of driving time, and it should read 1 volt at that time. If it does not, then adjust the TPS screw til it does. Pin 2K needs to be measured w/the car in 5th gear, otherwise it should be 12 volts. 2L should be 1 to 2 volts w/the engine fully warmed up. And 2Q is way off. And pin 2P is off, but that could be a function of the TPS waiting to be adjusted properly.

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

Sounds like you adjusted the idle mix screw so much that it got damaged and is now internally open (Giving you a near 5v reading at 2f). 2b is the boost sensor, and although your car isn't turbocharged, for some reason Mazda still decided to call what's commonly referred to as the MAP sensor, a "boost" sensor. You should go back and check it. I doubt it's bad though, you can at least drive your car normally once you get it going, right? Once again, back to the TPS, fully warm, adjust it to 1.000v. 2q might or might not be off. Remember that the ECU controls the pulse width going to the BAC, so if you put the multimeter on the %duty setting, you should get something between 0-100%. It's a square wave pulsed DC, so it might show a pretty low voltage if it's on a low duty cycle.

rx7_FREAKKK

iTrader: (1)

Well my car is an auto to manual swap.. This car has no shift light nothin. Infact no wires are hooked to the car from tran.. Not even the reverse lights. they were at one Point. but then had to find a short. so i unplugged everything.

rx7_FREAKKK

iTrader: (1)

The V resistor never worked. it just spun around. did nothing,,

Thanks for all your guys help. means alot

rx7_FREAKKK

iTrader: (1)

My car has no Turbo. isnt pin 2b void?

satch

iTrader: (1)

Pin 2B is for the Pressure sensor. If the car were a turbo it would be called the Boost Sensor. Either way, the rectangular Black box w/the vacuum hose that is mounted to the passenger strut tower needs to be in working order. It has four wires including a ground wire, V ref wire, switched voltage wire and an output wire. V ref has 5 volts w/key to on, switched has 12 volts w/key to on and this wire is B/W and the output wire should have 3.5 to 4 volts w/key to on and vacuum hose removed and capped and this is the wire which runs to the ECU at pin 2B and it is Brown/Red.

rx7_FREAKKK

iTrader: (1)

OH. that would make sense. last year i drove Over the pass. i hit 3k and 4k feet and was doing 20 mph floored.. no power at all.. so 2b is pressure sensor? TY

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

i think you have 2 issues

1) low mileage rebuild, needs more time to build compression

and

2) improper timing

going off the other thread your CAS was aligned improperly, telling me you either have the wrong front timing pulley on your hub, the CAS is off one tooth or the CAS drive gear was installed backwards.

a 3rd unlikely possibility is a diaphragm failure in the fuel pressure regulator. i had one car that had constant hot start issues, it drug *** to start when hot.. after several days wasted testing various things i found fuel pissing out of the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator into the intake tract after shutting the engine down, replaced the FPR and the car worked perfect.

an improper timing pulley will also give those symptoms.

rx7_FREAKKK

iTrader: (1)

the cas drive gear i put in slanded edge in? isnt that Right? the cas is moving Counter Clockwise. did i do something wrong? I dont remember seeing a timing pully on a 13b!

satch

iTrader: (1)

The Pressure Sensor and the Atmospheric Pressure Sensor are two different items. The Pressure Sensor helps to tell the ECU when the car is under load among other things.

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

Timing pulley = eccentric shaft pulley that has the yellow and red marks

You seem to have more issues than previously thought.

You definitely have sensor problems. Those have been identified already. Here's a tidbit of info that you'll find useful. The ECU takes in 12v, but uses 5v to send to sensors (most). The sensor is usually something simple, like a thermistor that changes resistance based on temperature, or a variable resistor (TPS). So the ECU sends 5 volts to the sensor, and the sensor, depending on what it does, modifies the voltage and sends it back to the ECU. The output range of most sensors falls between 0.5v, and 4.5v. If you see one that's sitting dead at 0v or 5v, then it's either shorted or open.

Known issues:
Your variable resistor (the idle mixture screw) is showing 5v.
Same for your water thermosensor.
Boost sensor, as stated 2x already, should not be 0v.
TPS, not properly adjusted
(split air, yada yada kind of stuff, but that's something you should worry about later on, once this other stuff's taken care of)
Timing? WTF. Get the idle speed set correctly, fully warmed up, jumper the initial set coupler, set timing. If you have the wrong pulleys or CAS stabbed wrong, or the drive gear backwards, then fix it before doing anything else. Period.
Karack's right about the low mileage rebuild with used housings. It just takes a while for them to build compression, and that's just reality.

rx7_FREAKKK

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for your help. First things First. How can i make sure i put the cas drive Gear in the correct way when engine is together? I watched aaron cakes video about the cas drive Gear. I looked at the Gear. Its identical from both directions. But i put it in the way i thought it was to go. I been looking for posts about the drive gear. and cant find it.. but i timed it. seems to be timed. he claims the timing would always be off if the gear was on wrong. he did not go into how it would effect timing.

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

If you installed it incorrectly, you'd have to adjust it to the max, and it'd still be off by a degree or 2. Then, you'd think it was stabbed incorrectly, and move it back 1 tooth and you'd have to max it out the other way, only to be a degree or 2 off.

If you're timing it correctly, then you have it installed correctly. But once again, to time it properly, it must have a smooth, stable idle at 1000 or below, fully warmed up, with the initial set coupler installed.

If you have the wrong eccentric shaft pulley, then the timing marks wont line up. Not sure if you have the right pulley or not, but I think that's what Karack was alluding to.

rx7_FREAKKK

iTrader: (1)

Ok im good then.. Cas is dead center, and timed right on the "YELLOW" mark to Pin. pully is same that came with engine.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

was worth a shot, i've seen more than a few engines used with gobs of mixed parts lately.

rx7_FREAKKK

iTrader: (1)

Nothing wrong with that. I was not 100% sure since i put the engine together.. it was always in the back of my mind also. So now i feel better. I think this engine needs more time on the road. like you said. So i might take it to Bellingham. and drive chuckanut a few times

rx7_FREAKKK

iTrader: (1)

I dont know anything about a set coupler. I just time it after its warm and idles low.. But have not been able to do that.. yet. the engine has 100 miles on it. Its started Right off for the First time. but it sat for an hour. But i would like to know what a set coupler is. maybe that would help me

satch

iTrader: (1)

The coupler is a Green two wire connector located near the leading coil and is to be jumpered (bridges both wires in the plug together) and this is done to set the idle speed, Variable Resistor etc.

rx7_FREAKKK

iTrader: (1)

i think compression is coming up. more power. and i keep having to turn things down. so somthing is happening.