TheGloriousTachikoma

What about 626 alternator?

clokker

iTrader: (2)

When my FD alt died I replaced it with one from a 929, which tested at 110A* (nominally rated at either 90 or 100A, depending on model).
It's a direct bolt on/plug in (for the S5 at least) and used the already modified FC pulley from the FD unit.
626's use the identical frame and fit as well but are rated slightly lower (80/90A).

Lots of Mazdas use alternators that will drop right into the FC, it's just a question of how much amperage you desire (and in my case, what's available in the junkyard).

*Not sure I believe this number- it was tested at Autozone and I was only interested in whether it was good or not.
Whatever the real output, I get a rock solid 14.1A no matter what's turned on.
YMMV.

TheGloriousTachikoma

okay. Still too low for what I [will] need though.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

Probably so...my car doesn't even have a stereo or anything very electrically demanding, so I'm easily satisfied.

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

I picked up a pair of these at my local yard this weekend. Also snagged a Volvo 2 speed fan relay. My story is that I'm putting my rebuilt engine back in and buttoning everything up....to find that my OEM adjuster bar I had 2 days prior is now gone and in spite of all my looking cannot be located. Of course I had a spare one which I recently threw out thinking "why on earth would I ever need two of these?" Frustrating in that all I need to do to turn the key on my engine is install the alternator, belts and battery.

I'm using mine with a modded S5 alternator (modded for 120-130amps..don't remember which). I have a fitment issue where I"m going to have to put a notch in the adjuster so it can swing a little closer to the CAS. While doing that I might as well make it shorter. Also I'm concerned about the inner belt on my dual belt pulley making contact with adjuster so I might take some material off the adjuster as a precaution.