New clokker-inspired junkard greatness: Adjustable (FD) Alternator Bracket!
05-28-12, 06:28 PM
#32
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Sharingan,what alt are you using?when i bought my s4 fc,belt was so loose i could almost take it off by hand!haha..well,not really haha.has new alt on,belt looks suuuuper stretched...couldnt tighten anymore because it was as far as it could go on the bracket
05-28-12, 07:44 PM
#33
It's already been stated that he's using the FD alternator. The pulley from the FD alternator can't be used, since it's meant for a serpentine belt. Therefore, you either have to bore out the FC pulley or buy an aftermarket pulley. He just so happens to be using an aftermarket one from Japan2LA. If it's an underdrive pulley, it's hardly small enough to prevent the stock tensioner from picking up the slack. You probably bought the car from a jackass who put the wrong belt on it. It happened to me too, but it was fixed right away. That's what you get for buying a car from jackasses. 
The only aftermarket belt that anyone should ever buy is Gates. They are the only company that gets my endorsement for aftermarket belts. Every other brand sucks, hands down.
The only aftermarket belt that anyone should ever buy is Gates. They are the only company that gets my endorsement for aftermarket belts. Every other brand sucks, hands down.
05-31-12, 11:03 AM
#37
I'm not sure why belt companies feel the need to add those "teeth" to the inside. It's stupid really. I think of it sort of like this: Brittle fracture occurs when there's a low fracture toughness, high tensile stress, and a pre-existing flaw. Well, it's rubber, so #1 is already out of the question. It's under tension (hopefully) so there's #2. Adding those teeth give it the pre-existing flaw, so it only aggravates the situation.
I've used Goodyear Gatorbacks. While goodyear makes good rubber obviously, their design incorporates those teeth. But wait! Theirs have those gimmicky diagonally cut teeth!! They're notoriously hit or miss. Some have luck, some don't. It's most likely because they have mixed a quality rubber with a shitty design, which allows it to hold up longer before eventually the design gives way and it starts to squeal. I also was an auto technician for a few years, and believe me, the only belt that I've used with any luck was Gates. Dayco belts are absolute GARBAGE, and any house-brand belt like Duralast, Valu-Craft, Master-Pro, etc. are in the same boat.
But in order to really understand where I'm coming from, you'd have to put yourself in my shoes. Imagine a customer walks up to you and asks you to not only install a belt, but also guarantee your workmanship for 12 months. Any good garage will stand behind their work for at least that long. Now, imagine that they're so cheap that they go out and get a Dayco Poly-Cog belt from AAP because the sales guy behind the counter said that it has the best "grip", and it's the cheapest. So, you're thinking... ok, we'll save this guy some money and install the belt. 3 months later, it comes back, squealing its *** off. So now you have to remove the belt, give it to the customer, he takes it back to AAP to get a new one, he finally brings it back to you and you are now wasting your time installing a part you wouldn't want to stand behind in the first place.
I learned this years ago, and had to re-live this story once again when a friend of mine did that to me 3 years ago. He wouldn't spend the extra money for a Gates belt, even on my recommendation. I reluctantly installed it. A month later I got a phone call because his car was overheated, on the side of the interstate. I went to the parts store, bought a Gates belt, drove to his car and installed it. Charged him $100 and told him if it ever broke again that I'd personally buy him another belt and drive to him to fix it.
So the moral of the story here is: Buy quality parts, do it right, or do it twice. What if it's your only car and the water pump belt breaks? Now you're walking your happy *** to the parts store to get a new belt. Yeah, the cheap belt has the warranty, but for an extra $10, you could have gotten the Gates belt that will not break. That's something I can stand behind.
Jerry, I know O'Reilly sells Gates, but as for your local area, I have no idea. If you're cool with the guys that work there at the parts store, you can get them to stock certain things for you. For instance, they didn't normally stock WIX oil filters for my Rx7, Audi, or the Cx7 that I have. They keep just those in stock for me now, just because I'm in there all the time and don't want to lose my business. Discount parts stores can get quality parts, you just have to know what brands to look for.
I've used Goodyear Gatorbacks. While goodyear makes good rubber obviously, their design incorporates those teeth. But wait! Theirs have those gimmicky diagonally cut teeth!! They're notoriously hit or miss. Some have luck, some don't. It's most likely because they have mixed a quality rubber with a shitty design, which allows it to hold up longer before eventually the design gives way and it starts to squeal. I also was an auto technician for a few years, and believe me, the only belt that I've used with any luck was Gates. Dayco belts are absolute GARBAGE, and any house-brand belt like Duralast, Valu-Craft, Master-Pro, etc. are in the same boat.
But in order to really understand where I'm coming from, you'd have to put yourself in my shoes. Imagine a customer walks up to you and asks you to not only install a belt, but also guarantee your workmanship for 12 months. Any good garage will stand behind their work for at least that long. Now, imagine that they're so cheap that they go out and get a Dayco Poly-Cog belt from AAP because the sales guy behind the counter said that it has the best "grip", and it's the cheapest. So, you're thinking... ok, we'll save this guy some money and install the belt. 3 months later, it comes back, squealing its *** off. So now you have to remove the belt, give it to the customer, he takes it back to AAP to get a new one, he finally brings it back to you and you are now wasting your time installing a part you wouldn't want to stand behind in the first place.
I learned this years ago, and had to re-live this story once again when a friend of mine did that to me 3 years ago. He wouldn't spend the extra money for a Gates belt, even on my recommendation. I reluctantly installed it. A month later I got a phone call because his car was overheated, on the side of the interstate. I went to the parts store, bought a Gates belt, drove to his car and installed it. Charged him $100 and told him if it ever broke again that I'd personally buy him another belt and drive to him to fix it.
So the moral of the story here is: Buy quality parts, do it right, or do it twice. What if it's your only car and the water pump belt breaks? Now you're walking your happy *** to the parts store to get a new belt. Yeah, the cheap belt has the warranty, but for an extra $10, you could have gotten the Gates belt that will not break. That's something I can stand behind.
Jerry, I know O'Reilly sells Gates, but as for your local area, I have no idea. If you're cool with the guys that work there at the parts store, you can get them to stock certain things for you. For instance, they didn't normally stock WIX oil filters for my Rx7, Audi, or the Cx7 that I have. They keep just those in stock for me now, just because I'm in there all the time and don't want to lose my business. Discount parts stores can get quality parts, you just have to know what brands to look for.
06-02-12, 02:19 PM
#43
I don't have any junk yards within half an hour of me, just figured I'd ask before going, since we're probably going to the same yard anyways 
The one back home would keep all kinds of random cars I've never heard of, but wouldn't stock much common stuff. They had at least 5 or 6 fc's and probably more fb's, that place was great!
The one back home would keep all kinds of random cars I've never heard of, but wouldn't stock much common stuff. They had at least 5 or 6 fc's and probably more fb's, that place was great!
06-07-12, 11:23 PM
#44
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I'm installing a Taurus alternator per chwkrx7's write-up, and adding this Camry bracket at the same time.
This far, I have encountered a substantial problem in that the bracket will have to come out at least a centimeter for it to work properly. As the modified factory bracket that chwkrx7 ended-up using technically sat a few mm's further out, and that the adjusting block on the Camry bracket is inboard of the base of the bracket, this isn't surprising.
The only solution I have come-up with is washers to space it and a 100mm bolt. I might end-up using a 110mm stud if there isn't enough thread engagement into the end housing. We'll see...
That, and the adjustment block and travel slot on the Camry bracket need to be drilled out to properly mount the Taurus alternator. The 'upper' bolt fits a M10 really well, but drilling the adjuster block out to accept a M10 shank might intrude on the adjuster bolt. And I can't find a M8-M10 sleeve, unless tension on the bolt head and nut will be enough to secure the upper side of the alternator.
This is added to my worry about the mounting solidity. chwkrx7 simply mounted the alternator to the water pump housing on the single narrow ear. I don't doubt that this work well enough when using the modded-stock bracket as that creates a rigid mount. But using the Camry adjuster bracket introduces a good deal of looseness in the upper mount, relying on belt tension to keep it secure. Again, this is something that will have to be mounted and checked.
This far, I have encountered a substantial problem in that the bracket will have to come out at least a centimeter for it to work properly. As the modified factory bracket that chwkrx7 ended-up using technically sat a few mm's further out, and that the adjusting block on the Camry bracket is inboard of the base of the bracket, this isn't surprising.
The only solution I have come-up with is washers to space it and a 100mm bolt. I might end-up using a 110mm stud if there isn't enough thread engagement into the end housing. We'll see...
That, and the adjustment block and travel slot on the Camry bracket need to be drilled out to properly mount the Taurus alternator. The 'upper' bolt fits a M10 really well, but drilling the adjuster block out to accept a M10 shank might intrude on the adjuster bolt. And I can't find a M8-M10 sleeve, unless tension on the bolt head and nut will be enough to secure the upper side of the alternator.
This is added to my worry about the mounting solidity. chwkrx7 simply mounted the alternator to the water pump housing on the single narrow ear. I don't doubt that this work well enough when using the modded-stock bracket as that creates a rigid mount. But using the Camry adjuster bracket introduces a good deal of looseness in the upper mount, relying on belt tension to keep it secure. Again, this is something that will have to be mounted and checked.
06-08-12, 10:11 AM
#45
Good info! Thanks for providing that. I hope you are able to come up with a solid solution and come back and document it (hint: pics) when you do.
This does however add to my list of reasons why I dont like the taurus alt, (somewhere between 'its hideous' and 'its uneccessary'). If you don't mind me asking what setup are you running that you need 20 extra amps?
This does however add to my list of reasons why I dont like the taurus alt, (somewhere between 'its hideous' and 'its uneccessary'). If you don't mind me asking what setup are you running that you need 20 extra amps?
06-08-12, 01:13 PM
#46
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Good info! Thanks for providing that. I hope you are able to come up with a solid solution and come back and document it (hint: pics) when you do.
This does however add to my list of reasons why I dont like the taurus alt, (somewhere between 'its hideous' and 'its uneccessary'). If you don't mind me asking what setup are you running that you need 20 extra amps?
This does however add to my list of reasons why I dont like the taurus alt, (somewhere between 'its hideous' and 'its uneccessary'). If you don't mind me asking what setup are you running that you need 20 extra amps?
As I said, I'll have to see how it works out.
And why is the Taurus alt ugly? I think it looks pretty good in there.
06-08-12, 04:28 PM
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Good news and maybe not so good news.
The adjustment block can be drilled out to M10 diameter without interfering with the adjustment bolt. However, the steel the bracket itself is made from must be an alloy of unobtanium. I ruined a drill bit and destroyed three grinding bits, but the slot finally did widen enough that the bolt passes through.
And yes, it seems that I will need a 110mm or longer stud to mount the bracket. this might put the bracket out far enough that it blocks the path of one or more belts. If it's the AC belt...the AC doesn't work anyway. It might be the alternator belt itself though. Again, I'll have to go back out and check. I'm just in the house letting the PB' soak into the fuel tank bolts.
Methinks I will need to take material off the adjustment block and the large ear on the alternator.
The adjustment block can be drilled out to M10 diameter without interfering with the adjustment bolt. However, the steel the bracket itself is made from must be an alloy of unobtanium. I ruined a drill bit and destroyed three grinding bits, but the slot finally did widen enough that the bolt passes through.
And yes, it seems that I will need a 110mm or longer stud to mount the bracket. this might put the bracket out far enough that it blocks the path of one or more belts. If it's the AC belt...the AC doesn't work anyway. It might be the alternator belt itself though. Again, I'll have to go back out and check. I'm just in the house letting the PB' soak into the fuel tank bolts.
Methinks I will need to take material off the adjustment block and the large ear on the alternator.
06-08-12, 05:48 PM
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Good news and maybe not so good news.
The adjustment block can be drilled out to M10 diameter without interfering with the adjustment bolt. However, the steel the bracket itself is made from must be an alloy of unobtanium. I ruined a drill bit and destroyed three grinding bits, but the slot finally did widen enough that the bolt passes through.
And yes, it seems that I will need a 110mm or longer stud to mount the bracket. this might put the bracket out far enough that it blocks the path of one or more belts. If it's the AC belt...the AC doesn't work anyway. It might be the alternator belt itself though. Again, I'll have to go back out and check. I'm just in the house letting the PB' soak into the fuel tank bolts.
Methinks I will need to take material off the adjustment block and the large ear on the alternator.
The adjustment block can be drilled out to M10 diameter without interfering with the adjustment bolt. However, the steel the bracket itself is made from must be an alloy of unobtanium. I ruined a drill bit and destroyed three grinding bits, but the slot finally did widen enough that the bolt passes through.
And yes, it seems that I will need a 110mm or longer stud to mount the bracket. this might put the bracket out far enough that it blocks the path of one or more belts. If it's the AC belt...the AC doesn't work anyway. It might be the alternator belt itself though. Again, I'll have to go back out and check. I'm just in the house letting the PB' soak into the fuel tank bolts.
Methinks I will need to take material off the adjustment block and the large ear on the alternator.
06-13-12, 02:32 AM
#49
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I am officially calling the Camry bracket + Taurus alt a no-go.
The modifications necessary to make the Camry bracket work with the Taurus alternator are simply too great, a much better alternative would be finding a suitable adjuster bracket from a different car. But it is doable. I report that the mount is fairly solid where I have it now.
Here it is bolted in. Well, I need to adjust some washers but this is 'final position'. As it stands, the lowest 2cm of travel on the adjuster are unusable as the alternator contacts the water pump housing underneath. The slot for the adjuster's travel needs to be widened. A M8 bolt is loose in the Taurus alt and a M10 is too big for the adjuster. The adjuster block can be drilled out to M10 without interfering with the adjuster screw. Be prepared to ruin bits and grinding bits on the bracket though, the steel is very tough.
The bracket must be straightened in order to fit properly. Putting the bracket more than a few mm's out from the pump risks interference with the alternator belt. My attempt at cutting off a portion of the Taurus alt's larger mounting 'ear' does work to a point. However, the inside of the adjuster bracket interferes with the structure on the front of the alternator. You can see where I cut away the alternator's large ear. It ended-up being far too much, about 5mm should give the bracket enough room.
Lastly, the bracket will interfere with the crank angle sensor and must be suitably notched. I ended-up using a 90mm bolt on the bracket's lower mount, but only because the threads on the old bolt looked a little soft after cleanup It needed a few washer to not bottom out, 85mm would be best if you can find it. This is a 'stainless mandatory' fastener IMO, like the rest of the WP bolts.
As I said, not the 'best' solution, but it can be made to work. You must simply resign yourself that you will never use this alternator as a core ever again. Make sure you have a good alternator shop within driving distance.
I apologize for the photo size, I could have sworn I reduced them. Photobucket is about as graceful as a basset hound working a stripper pole.
The modifications necessary to make the Camry bracket work with the Taurus alternator are simply too great, a much better alternative would be finding a suitable adjuster bracket from a different car. But it is doable. I report that the mount is fairly solid where I have it now.
Here it is bolted in. Well, I need to adjust some washers but this is 'final position'. As it stands, the lowest 2cm of travel on the adjuster are unusable as the alternator contacts the water pump housing underneath. The slot for the adjuster's travel needs to be widened. A M8 bolt is loose in the Taurus alt and a M10 is too big for the adjuster. The adjuster block can be drilled out to M10 without interfering with the adjuster screw. Be prepared to ruin bits and grinding bits on the bracket though, the steel is very tough.
The bracket must be straightened in order to fit properly. Putting the bracket more than a few mm's out from the pump risks interference with the alternator belt. My attempt at cutting off a portion of the Taurus alt's larger mounting 'ear' does work to a point. However, the inside of the adjuster bracket interferes with the structure on the front of the alternator. You can see where I cut away the alternator's large ear. It ended-up being far too much, about 5mm should give the bracket enough room.
Lastly, the bracket will interfere with the crank angle sensor and must be suitably notched. I ended-up using a 90mm bolt on the bracket's lower mount, but only because the threads on the old bolt looked a little soft after cleanup It needed a few washer to not bottom out, 85mm would be best if you can find it. This is a 'stainless mandatory' fastener IMO, like the rest of the WP bolts.
As I said, not the 'best' solution, but it can be made to work. You must simply resign yourself that you will never use this alternator as a core ever again. Make sure you have a good alternator shop within driving distance.
I apologize for the photo size, I could have sworn I reduced them. Photobucket is about as graceful as a basset hound working a stripper pole.
Last edited by TheGloriousTachikoma; 06-13-12 at 02:34 AM.
