sa22c[est. 1979]

iTrader: (2)

So, I got the vert home today, and started doing a little bit of troubleshooting. The car isn't getting spark, all though, when I crank it, the tach jumps, but only a very small amount, and just once. I pulled and checked every wire, to see if it would arc to a bolt and nothing. Also, on the passanger kick panel, there is a light green/white wire running from the ecu that's split. What does this go to exactly. Last thing is, is that all of the fuse box covers are missing so I don't know which fuses belong to what in the interior, any help would be greatly appreciated.

satch

iTrader: (1)

...

satch

iTrader: (1)

Light Green/White wire connects to your front secondary injector. Fix it asap!

Check the coils for battery voltage on the B/Y wire with the key to on.

sa22c[est. 1979]

iTrader: (2)

I'm still getting fuel though, I'll go fix it when I got off of work in the morning. Next thing I guess is the ENG fuse, supposedly FC's are notorious for blowing these? Sorry for the noobish questions, I've always been a first gen guy until today.

satch

iTrader: (1)

The Engine fuse in the interior fuse box would prevent the B/Y wire from having voltage w/key to on. And if the Engine fuse is good then the EGI Injector fuse in the engine fuse box would also prevent the B/Y wire from having said voltage.

sa22c[est. 1979]

iTrader: (2)

Ok thanks, it'd be really funny if it was just a fuse. Picked up the car for $1000, 88 vert 130k, 8/10 condition clean title. Only flwas are some dime sized door dings, and clearcoat peeling on the mirrors. Haha

sa22c[est. 1979]

iTrader: (2)

Ok, so a little update, it's sparking now. The problem is, it will only spark once, no matter how long I crank it, just once, on the leading, what could this be? Could this be the problem?

satch

iTrader: (1)

The easiest way to see spark is to pull the plug wire off of the coil bore and set it as close to the bore but at the same time leaving a space and try to start the car and verify if there is spark or not and this generally involves two people, one starter and one spark looker. Doing it this way removes the plug wires and plugs as possible causes for the lack of spark. Also, make sure the coil is grounded properly which is accomplished by it being bolted to the fender via the coil mounting bracket. A nongrounded coil/igniter will not fire.

If this produces the same result then check the CAS as to spec and see if it ohms out properly. If the CAS checks out properly then pull the white plug off of the leading coil and check the Green/Yellow wire as follows. Measure the voltage on this wire with the key to on as you crank the engine by hand by using the main pulley. As this is done the voltage should go from o volts to 5 volts very suddenly and then back to o volts. Most of the turning of the pulley will lead to a 0 volt reading and then flash 5 volts briefly as it then returns back to 0 volts.

Also make sure your grounds are up to spec as the main ground is on top of the engine conspicuously hidden under the manifold as well as checking the grounds at the ECU. The FSM indicates which pins these are( pin 2R,3A,2C and 3G) and the link to the FSM is in the FAQ at the top of these threads (second FAQ thread listed).

You can check the ohm output of the CAS at the ECU. You would remove the largest plug (far left) and w/multimeter set to ohms, place one lead on pin 1N and the other lead on pin 1P and then do the same for pins 1T and 1Q. Both should fall between the ranges of 110 to 210 ohms. This to be done with "NO" key in the ignition!

pin 1N=Green wire color
1P=Blue wire
1T=Red wire
1Q=White wire color

sa22c[est. 1979]

iTrader: (2)

You're the man! Went outside and found my coils to be fairly....loose I guess you could say, bolted them down tight and got it to fire up!