He if the stock POS radio works I could use it. Mine is on its way out.

 

You can completely HAVE the sucker... I don't know if it works, or not, I just pulled it, regardless.


Yes, yea. I have another vehicle. Two, actually. An Explorer and a PT Cruiser. Notta biggie, on extranious transport.


Radio and such are D.A.L. and won't get done for a while. Drivetrain, Brakes and suspension are primary. As long as it RUNS, initially, that's all that matters...

For now.

I don't have ANY misconceptions that this is a massive undertaking. But, unlike myself in NORMAL life, I'm patient when it comes to cars.

Back to the grind (Loce wirelessI/N at the shop)!!!



Ant

 

WOO-Hoo! I got my clutch, today... Initially, I found an OEM in stock at Pep-Boys, for $175.... Well, I ordered it through work - from one of our parts suppliers, and I got a "Brute Power" (Makers of Zoom Clutches and Flywheels) post-OEM spec clutch kit (5-piece: Plate, cover, BOTH bearings, and an alignment tool) which lists for 275.28 for...

<insert drum-roll, here>

$115.00!



I'm going to put ot in, tommorrow, here at the shop... Hopefully have it done, and running for our "INTMO" car club meets.

I told a couple people about it, and they want me to bring it out....

YES!

 

THE CLUTCH IS IN!!!!

Unfortunately, my service manager's stand-in (my serv. mananger is on vacation) had a hissy-fit and said I couldn't work on my own ****. Sooooooo...

I towed the 7 up to my buddy's shop, the local Mercedes dealership, and we dropped that sucker in... No flywheel change. I figured, "to hell with it," and left it in.

The logic is that I'm going to pull the entire thing, flywheel, too, and replace it all.

God Bless Racing Clutch and Flywheel assemblies!

Oh... The exhaust? Single pipe, Cherry-bombed. Hence the load, lawnmower-without-an-exhaust sound.

Go figure.

BUT IT'S IN!!!

 

thats cheaper than my vert :P

 

awesome deal; someone find me a car like that damnit.

congrats!

 

LOL! That seems to be the general consensus: That this is a sweet deal, and thatthey'd give someone ELSE'S left nut (or ovary) for a deal like this.

I got lucky.

Kinda funny, though. I bought a clutch that lists for more than I bought my car for.

BWHAHAH!

Oh: Before anyone asks: I left the flywheel in because, suprisingly, there wasn't the first sign of warpage, pocking or pitting, what-so-ever.

DAMNED lucky, given the condition of the clutch that we took out.

Let's put it this way: There wasn't ANY clutch material on the pressure plate....

AT ALL.

I looks like a ninja star... Or, as my girl puts it, "some kind of freaky metallic flower."

Riiiight.

 

I haven't even started drifting the car yet, and it's already trying to kill me.

I was driving down a road, here in Gainesville (NW 16th Ave, in front of Publix, for the local(s)), and I hear this, "clock-clock-clock-clock-clock" sound. I've heard this sound, more and more since yesterday, and can't - for the LIFE of me place it.

So here I am, driving about 40 mph with my girl, going to meet some friends to drink, and as we're talking about the noise....


CLUNK!
WHAM!
SCRAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAPE!


Holy ****-****, Batman!

My first thought is driveshaft bolt snapped, so I pop the sucker in neutral as fast as a stage I clutch will let me, and ease on the brakes.


I get out, and look under the car.... Driveshaft's fine...



Then I notice:

ALL 5 LUGNUTS ARE MISSING FROM THE REAR TIRE!!!

I realize that the stupid-***, sheep-*******, algae-in-the-gene-pool contributing, backwater, inbred, redneck DIDN'T TIGHTEN THE ******* LUGS!!!

I'm hot... Furious... This is where the REALLY NASTY **** comes out of my German ***... Hell bent on inflicting LARGE amounts of pain upon anything with a pulse... Okay. Pulse IS optional.



ANYWAY... I call my friend's that I was going to drink with, and they LEAVE THE BAR (MAD props, guys), run to the house, and bring me an impact socket and a breaker bar. Upon pulling one nut from each of the other three, I notice that NONE of the others were tight EITHER!!!!

OMFG! How STUPID can you be!??!

At any rate, I get the wheel back on (Luckily we were BLOCKS from my house, and I came back here and got my 2 ton hydro-jack), and I noticed that very minimal damage was inflicted upon the wheel, next to none to the rotor, miniscule amounts to my ego, and NONE to the road, itself.

Only thing was some rotor-to-wheel grinding, and the dust shield is now scraping the rotor.... I don't forsee THAT happening too long. That ****'ll get ground through in a New York second... I think I'll bang it off, anyway, Ja?


Now... Can I have my beer, now?



Ant

 

Wow man you were lucky with that wheel. I almost had a wheel come off my toyota pickup one night because I forgot to torque the lugs. Anyways That is one hell of a project you got there. My best friend picked up his a month or so ago and the guys on here were loads of help in getting us off the ground. Good luck man.

 

Thanks, man. Yeah, they've been a bunch of help, so far. Torque is a very important thing... ESPECIALLY when it comes to lugs.... ah well... all's well that ends well.



Or IS it?

 

the hoses and air intake look spray painted

 

dude that's nuts...

never trust anyone but yourself with the simple but important jobs.

glad it worked out in the end... lol.

 

we should have a whole rx7 section devoted to red s4 rx7s, and a section devoted to left handed people

 

That's awesome, I got my 86 GXL for 200, it needed clutch and brakes.. Luckily, both worked JUST well enough to make it home, barely They're one hell of a fun project, I can tell you that much.

I think my exterior was in better condition, but my interior was SHOT. It's largely together now, though.

As for the idling has to be @ 1300, The first thing I woudl check for is a vacuum leak somewhere, then,a fter that, adjust the idle fuel mixture adjustment, on the passanger shock tower in the engine bay. It's a flat-headed screw adjustment with R and L written on it. R stands for Richer, L stands for Leaner.

I think its a vacuum issue, though

StaticGuitar - I would have agreed with you before I painted mine.. She used to be red

Here's a pic of my 200 FC when I got it home..

 

I was thinking Vac issue, too, nut I went through and shot the entire engine down with carb cleaner, and the engine never so much as sputtered. Uusally that trick'll make the idle go up, or do funky ****.


Nope. Sorry, Sir. No Funky ****, here.

Yes, the guy I got it from spray painted the entire engine black, without taking anything OUT to do it. On THAT note: About the L and R thing... Which DIRECTION is each one?

<Please refer to the spraypaint comment, above>

I seem to've gotten the idle SOMEwhat smoothed out, It trolls just under 1000, and fluxes, ever so slightly.

Wonko: No pic, repost

Hey, that reminds me: What's a good thing to clean out corrosion on electrical connectors? The connection to my TPS has the SLIGHTEST amount of corrosion from a drippy, radiator cap, gasket.

I thought my TPS went, and when I went to check the connection, it smoothed out... AHA!

I opened it up and realised that the tiniest collant leak was causing some corrosion on the pins. Just enough to prevent an Ohm-meter to pick up a signal through it.

So. Let's review: We have some crazy-*** vaccum leak, GOD knows where, and a corroded connection...

OH! Also, I've found that the car has a powersteering leak, too... not one of those, "Ah I'll just drop fluid in it every couple of days, and MAYBE get it looked at." More like one of those, "HOLY **** IT'S LIKE A MUDER SCENE UNDER HERE!"

Can't track down the leak, though.. It's below the PS Pump, but above the steering assembly... <groan>

Fack!


Ant

 

Gee, Thans.

 

If the connections are corroding on you, its very possible that an electrical connection is the problem. I'd probably go to any hardware store or (if you have one near you) an electronics store, get a bottle or two of "Contact cleaner". I use CRC here, but that's because my dad managed to "liberate" a few bottles from work

As for which is L and which is R... um.. I honestly can't tell you I don't really have one of those in my engine bay anymore, and its in a bag down in the shed, and its raining out.. so maybe I can check later.. it really doesn't mater though, start turning it till it sounds better.. this is just an idle control, so you don't have to worry about it leaning/riching out your entire fuel map or anything.

I'd also be sure to check the connection to your boost sensor. That's the black box right behind the idle mixture control, with the rubber vacuum hose going into the manifold. Another good one to check would be to grab the Factory Service Manual (from the FAQs at the top of this section), and double check your AFM connection. Another thing to see is if there's any cracks in the snorkle goign from the AFM to the throttlebody.. I had a car that developed a crack in one of the folds of that, and it was a pain in the *** to troubleshoot

One more thing to check: If you have an aftermarket exhaust (No exhaust?), the previous owner may have removed the actuators for the 5/6th ports. they may be stuck open right now, causing your car to exhibit the same symptoms of a boinger engine with large cams... do a search for Aux ports, if you need more info.
Good luck!