Kruel13

been looking for a few months for a nice FC to have fun with. I know the listing is wrong and that it is a 5 speed. I just wanted to hear what people that have been around them think about it since it would be my first official rx car.

here is the link
Used 1988 Mazda RX-7 For Sale | Knoxville TN

invinciblejets

Like like a decent gxl.
But it's not worth 4000 at all.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

It's an Automatic,.,worth about 400..

Kruel13

The photos show it's a GXL and that it has a 5 speed. I don't know who the person was that posted it but he is not doing a very good job selling it. The car fax for the car is clean as well.

What would y'all give for the car?

clokker

iTrader: (2)

That's a silly question to ask.

If you've fixated on a FC, the next step is determine the model you like.
Think a turbo is in the future? Start with a turbo, it is so much easier.

IMO, two of the biggest things to check on any FC are rust and the electrical system.
All of the car's switchgear (lights/wipers/heater) is extremely proprietary and extremely expensive ("expensive" as in $550 for the wiper switch), it is no trivial matter if they aren't working.

Has the car been driven or has it been sitting a while?
Cars that sit tend to rot more comprehensively and require more teardown to evaluate and repair.

Finally...location, location, location!
Your search area is everything.
People will undoubtedly chime in and claim the car is worth say, $1000 and maybe where they live has such an abundance of FCs that they are spoiled for choice.
Around me (CO), FCs are so scarce that rolling piles of crap are listed at $3k+ (of course, who knows if they actually get that...) and your options are very limited.

Have you test driven the car?
What's the engine bay look like?

vrracing

iTrader: (1)

The big risk is going to be the engine. I've always thought Aaron Cake did a nice job on his "How to Buy..." articles.

Being that far north and given that CarFax only has data that has been reported, in addition to Aaron's visual rust inspection I'd recommend using a small magnet in a zip lock so you can look for bondo. Alternatively you can check with local auto restoration or classic car dealers and see what they'll charge to use a paint thickness gauge to look for body filler or fiberglass.

Good luck.

Jim

Kruel13

I'm not much of a turbo guy. I'm more likely to tear the engine down upgrade the injectors and oil pump and get the thing to run 11000 rpm without a hick up. I haven't seen the car in person yet since I live about 2 hours from it (Nashville to Knoxville).

FCs are far and in between down here especially since the car culture is pretty poor since most people like to show how small there package is with lifted Chevys and fords.

According to what the dealer told me the car has been driven but I don't know how long it sits between drives which I know is bad for the wankels.

If it helps this is the first FC I have seen in about 3-5 months of looking that I have even thought twice about.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

No Offense but getting the engine alone to run at 11 grand will cost you..11 Grand.

You may want to use the resources that the Forum has to offer and sit down with a coffee and start reading some info on the capabilities and quirks of these cars.
Right now you are just tossing "ideas" and assumptions around that really,and I have been there will lead you to a lot of disappointment if not done carefully.
If you do not know the car's mechanics then by all means seek out someone that can help you with your search for a car of this type.
They are picky,and If you don't chose with a level head then they can bite you in the *** later.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, no.
PixieStyx is absolutely correct, you are starting with a faulty assumption.
The NA power upgrade path is expensive, time consuming and ultimately, pretty pointless.

If you buy a NA car, you've tacitly admitted that you want a nice driver/GT coupe.
It is too heavy and underpowered to be "fast".
You want power, either a buy a turbo or plan on an engine swap...both far cheaper than trying to build a monster NA.

If you want fast, buy fast.

Kruel13

I know it will be expensive. The game plan is to have something quick not fast. I want to be able to drive down backs roads with some speed not drag race mustangs between lights.

I know there heavy but I read somewhere awhile back that they have the same parts as the GTUs brakes wise and stuff.

The first thing I would do is throw out a lot of the weight.

I don't like turbos due to the main behind them. I want this to be a fun/semiDD.

If I truly wanted something fast I would get an FD instead but I don't like those due to the fan boy persona around them.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

Like what?

Kruel13

Most of the interior. Seats all that good stuff. Swap to some nice bucket seats and so forth. Probably get rid of that original radio as well even though it's pretty cool.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

What is this car used for?

Kruel13

Nothing at the moment since I don't own it. Hope for it to be a fun car with possible autocross in the future.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

Leave the interior alone and upgrade tires/brakes/suspension.

Kruel13

That would come first obviously.

But anyways back to the car. From what I have been told I'm going to go with a no on getting it.

Natey

iTrader: (19)

4K for an S4 with blue interior. I'd pass.

Maybe lurk the FS section here or keep an eye on craigslist for a car being sold by a person (not a dealership) who knows a little something about these cars.

You can get a pretty clean Turbo2 for 4k. Keep the interior but still be quicker than the blue car.

barkz

iTrader: (1)

I'll sell you a done up tII for 11 grand lol

Kruel13

I make good money but not that good lol

WyomingTII

not worth 4k.

Evil Aviator

Unfortunately, dealer pricing is about $4K right now. You could get the same car for half that amount from a private sale. Therefore, you should decide whether it is worth the extra money to buy from a dealer, which I assume offers a warranty. If you decide to buy from a dealer then use Aaron's write-up as a checklist during your test drive.

Is it missing an exhaust tip or has it been converted to a single-output exhaust?

Yes, those seats need to get recovered or replaced. Gutting the interior doesn't really do much for a street car other than make it louder and hotter. A high-hp NA rotary engine is expensive and stupid-loud, and requires entirely too much skill for you to build yourself, so you would be pretty much limited to about 200hp for a budget-friendly and police-friendly NA street car. Turbocharged rotary engines are popular because that is really the only way to get a lot of horsepower yet still maintain drivability and noise, plus the fire-breathing rotary engine spools up a turbo really fast. Personally, I really like these cars in NA form, and 150-200hp is just fine for street driving and autocross events.

The curb weight for an 88 NA FC is 2720lbs. For comparison, a 2015 Corvette Z06 is 3524lbs.

Kruel13

Thanks for the info Evil. That is the hp range that I was shooting for anyways. I know turbos are what everyone likes but I am a N/A fanatic. Nothing more reliable than mechanical power vs. forced induction.

I would very much like to find one around TN that I could drive to pick up. The more and more I think about this I agree with y'all on it being to expensive.

I can do a lot of motor work myself with the machine shop experience I have and my degree. I just have to find the right resources since I am fresh out of college...

Natey

iTrader: (19)

In Indiana, nice black paint & interior, last year they made the FC, looks like the guy took good care of it, and definitely more desirable than the blue one.

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...o-b-o-1081069/

Kruel13

looks nice but i think the thread is dead.