Need to tune my SAFC
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Need to tune my SAFC
Hey all -- I am planning a trip down to Garland, TX to the Rotary Performance shop... supposedly this is one of APEXi's Power Excel shops that would seem to be the best at tuning my S-AFC, considering they make them!
I was wondering if any of you had any ideas as to where I could find something else that is closer? Garland is about 3.5 hours away from me so I was just wondering if it would be worth going to a certified APEXi shop or going somewhere else that has experience in this area. Thanks...
I was wondering if any of you had any ideas as to where I could find something else that is closer? Garland is about 3.5 hours away from me so I was just wondering if it would be worth going to a certified APEXi shop or going somewhere else that has experience in this area. Thanks...
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Installing and tuning a SAFC is a no brainer. Any shop that has a Lambda sensor hooked up to the dyno can precisely tune the SAFC. I've done it and it knocked off .05 seconds in the 1/4 mile. Leave all the settings at default (0) until you get to the dyno shop.
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.05 sec huh? That could've been either that the tuning didn't do **** and you shifted better, or your driving was worse and the tuning helped more... I'd figure that .05 is a little small? Maybe .5? Actually .5 is too much but you know what I mean.
I've got everything set on the S-AFC to where it should be, but I haven't gone into all the other fuel curve stuff. I just have the (4cyl, up and to the right) (06 in and 06 out) (Sensor Type: Flap) - that's all... sometimes it's running only 2 over stoich and sometimes 3-4.
I've got everything set on the S-AFC to where it should be, but I haven't gone into all the other fuel curve stuff. I just have the (4cyl, up and to the right) (06 in and 06 out) (Sensor Type: Flap) - that's all... sometimes it's running only 2 over stoich and sometimes 3-4.
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Originally posted by Driv300mph
.05 sec huh? That could've been either that the tuning didn't do **** and you shifted better, or your driving was worse and the tuning helped more... I'd figure that .05 is a little small? Maybe .5? Actually .5 is too much but you know what I mean.
I've got everything set on the S-AFC to where it should be, but I haven't gone into all the other fuel curve stuff. I just have the (4cyl, up and to the right) (06 in and 06 out) (Sensor Type: Flap) - that's all... sometimes it's running only 2 over stoich and sometimes 3-4.
.05 sec huh? That could've been either that the tuning didn't do **** and you shifted better, or your driving was worse and the tuning helped more... I'd figure that .05 is a little small? Maybe .5? Actually .5 is too much but you know what I mean.
I've got everything set on the S-AFC to where it should be, but I haven't gone into all the other fuel curve stuff. I just have the (4cyl, up and to the right) (06 in and 06 out) (Sensor Type: Flap) - that's all... sometimes it's running only 2 over stoich and sometimes 3-4.
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I was thinking that the people with the dyno would most likely have a spare wide band o2 sensor that they could hook up. I don't really care to spend $450 at the moment
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A Horiba Lambda sensor is an O2 sensor like I said earlier and it doesn't cost that much to have a bung welded on to use the O2 sensor. That's how you tune the SAFC not by your A/F gauge.
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Yeah I know, I'm not going by the a/f guage. It simply tells me that it is a bit rich, and even if it wasn't it would be best to tune it for a large HP gain... If they have a spare wideband, they could tune it with that, and put my old o2 sensor back on... even though the a/f guage wouldn't read very accurately I would still know that it's tuned correctly.
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