heres what is happening, i go to turn over the engine and i lose power from hi6 from the coil imput....green and yellow wires i believe. as soon as i let the key back the red led comes on on the crane.....car is idling like crap, goes pig rich under boost, and at idle i have between 10-12 volt wheere it was always at a constsant 13.3v.....is something grounding out in the cas? I put a different coil in, and it was fine for about 15minutes, then i shut it off...no power to coil or crane, ran crappy at idle again....if i`m cruising at 55mph its fine, under boost it goes way rich, and at idle its like theres not enough voltage????? any ideas?

 

oh, and i do have a fd alternator and everything is regrounded.

 

Sounds like you have a wiring error. I'm going from memory here, so check with the Crane manual before you commit to anything I say.

The thick black and red wires are battery + and -.

The thin red wire is + IGN, which gets connected to a 12V source that is hot when the key is set to IGN (black/yellow wire at the leading). You can also connect this t the tan wire coming from the ignitor.

The thin white wire is your trigger wire, which connects to the black wire coming out of the ignitor.

With the stock ECU, the ignitor should be left in place.


Edit...Orange and black wires are coil + and -.

 

thanks, aaron! it blew my meter 7.5 amp fuse at the same time, so i`m susspecting something in the wiring between the ignition switch, cas, coil, or may be my turbo timer?

 

What green and yellow wires???

You should not be touching any green or yellow wires on the HI-6...I don't think it even has those colors?
I know the stock coil (input) wires are definitely not yellow and green...well, it's like tan and pink...which you could argue tan = yellow, but definitely not green!


-Ted

 

i`ll look again, i thought that was the color, but its the input signal from the cas to the coil that i`m losing power on. I`m lost......

 

The signal wire to the ignitor is green/yellow if I remember correctly. But the HI-6 needs to see the signal AFTER the ignitor to get the proper dwell and such.

There is no input from the CAS to the coil, and the green/yellow wire should not show continuous 12V.

 

http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/articles/demystifying.html

The cas's coils MAKE a signal that is sent to the ECU which in turn sends a signal to the coil assy on that small, two wire, white plug at the Lead coil assy. And it ain't the black/yellow wire, it's the OTHER wire. Don''t ever fool around with that OTHER wire, like jumper power to it etc.

The url tells what each wire to/from the coil assy's do in life.

 

this all started when i noticed i had no guages anymore.....it keeps blowing the meter fuse...any relations?

 

ok....heres the deal now.. i replaced the lead and trail coils...runs great while idleing. my voltage is still around 12.1 volt which it is normally at 13.3v at idle. if i shut the car off no spark until i remove the 7.5 meter fuse, and the replace it. when i remove it my door beeper goes on and when i put it back in it shuts off. Bad cpu ground? i`ve resoldered everything possible in the cpu.

 

It sounds like you have other problems that are not related to the CDI box install.
It would be more coherent if you started another thread on your other problem insteads of trying to stuff all that information into one (this) thread.

Got an aftermarket stereo or alarm in there?
Or anything aftermarket electronics?
That's what tends to blow that METER fuse cause bad installs tend to tap into circuits under that fuse under the dash...


-Ted

 

wow man that must suck hang in there wish i could help but i don't understand
how a properly wired in cdi is shorting your other electronics ??????

 

car has been fine since last september. I put a new light weight fly wheel, act clutch/pp, tranny in on saturday. it all of a sudden did this when i parked it, shut it off. went to start, no start, blown 7.5 meter fuse. is all that is going on related to this fuse?

 

I know that Jeremy had an underdrive pulley on that altnernator, could that cause any issues?

 

its charging at 14v off the alt, and i bought this alternator new, jeremys fried last summer.

 

Is anything tapped into the cabin circuit? There are other problems here that could be anything. You will have to examine any wiring changes, map them out, check with a meter, etc.

 

i havent changed a thing in the cabin since last oct. i`m getting 12.6 volts at the alt...(its a fd) at idle....the alt gets super hot in 1minute...i now know i have something drawing, but i cant figure it out.....i have a turbo timer, i disconnected it, nothing....only thing i`ve done is to replace the clutch....would the 5th gear/reverse switch cause this? or maybe my ignition switch itself....maybe my starter? i`m baffled...

 

OK, at the bottom of this thread is a short cut to some of the problems i`ve incurred. Now, I see that my idiot lights are not coming on at start up...my clock is resetting itself, and my door beeper doesn`t work with my 7.5 amp meter fuse. All of my problems are related I believe. This all started on the 4th of July. went to start....no gauges...blow meter fuse replaced...it blew again, then car wouldn`t start. now it doesn`t blow...my tach with key out is sitting at 600rpm (it always was at zero before) idiot light work individually, but not at start up. The alternator is a 3rd gen and at idle i`m only seeing 12.5 volts I resoldered the cpu last nov., and eevrything has worked great up until last week. Any ideas? I`ve checked maf, pressure sensor, ecu, fuses, all my addd ons, but this is really stumping me!!!

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=556337

 

blown room fuse

 

fuses are all good, in engine bay and underdash......

 

nope... not if the clock and door beeper are not working. does the dome light work???

and if you are only getting 12.6 volts on the alt, either the alt is wired wrong, or bad

 

and just as a not, it really really sucks to have to go find another thread if you had the same problems in that thread... do not start multiple threads on the same subject.

Threads merged

 

the clock works, dome works, beepers work while the car is off. running they`ll work if i pull the room fuse, also none of the idiot light come on at start up...they always have in the past. .......all this just started at once. alt was new nov o5....prolly has 5000 miles on it, and it is hooked up correctly....i `m getting another under warrenty, but it does the same hting with my s4 original too. This electrical gremlin is killin me. I`m not one to usually ask for help, i usually find my answers searching, but nothing really relates to this...

 

You said they didn't work... now they do???

Begining to sound more like a loose nut behind the wheel.

well as Arron and Ted asked. What wiring got changed???

 

nothing changed.....i drove up to see jager on the 4th. shut car off. went to start gauges where dead. checked fuse it was blown. replaced, it blew again and again. Then i shut the car off. when i went to start it it had no power to lead or trail coil. pulled the 15amp engine fuse, it started. Drove it home, shut it off same thing, but this time the room fuse never blew, no power, tried the fuse replace on the engine nothing. replaced the lead coil,l it started, but i had only spark to L1, nothing on L2. Replaced that coil and it ran, but when i drove it my afrs were below 11.0. Then in second its like it snaps outta it and all is fine, then it goes back to running funny. only thing i did was change the clutch on sat the 1st, but i drove the car everyday after and put 2 tanks of fuel through it. I`ve tried, and tested all that i can think of.