Need some electrical help!!!!!!
07-13-06, 10:43 PM
#26
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Originally Posted by sLiCk WiLlIe
.......all this just started at once. alt was new nov o5....prolly has 5000 miles on it, and it is hooked up correctly....i `m getting another under warrenty, but it does the same hting with my s4 original too.
07-13-06, 10:47 PM
#27
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Originally Posted by sLiCk WiLlIe
nothing changed.....i drove up to see jager on the 4th. shut car off. went to start gauges where dead. checked fuse it was blown. replaced, it blew again and again. Then i shut the car off. when i went to start it it had no power to lead or trail coil. pulled the 15amp engine fuse, it started. Drove it home, shut it off same thing, but this time the room fuse never blew, no power, tried the fuse replace on the engine nothing. replaced the lead coil,l it started, but i had only spark to L1, nothing on L2. Replaced that coil and it ran, but when i drove it my afrs were below 11.0. Then in second its like it snaps outta it and all is fine, then it goes back to running funny. only thing i did was change the clutch on sat the 1st, but i drove the car everyday after and put 2 tanks of fuel through it. I`ve tried, and tested all that i can think of.
You probably shorted or busted the reverse switch wires when you did the clutch. That would explain the meter fuse blowing.
07-13-06, 10:47 PM
#28
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Yes, like i said, i`ve rewired, resoldered and regrounded all of mazdas little problems. I haven`t had an issue other that the fpr since i started working on the car last sept. That is why this is really getting me. I never touched a thing. the alt is rewired according to the new rewire for fd alt.
07-13-06, 10:49 PM
#29
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Originally Posted by sLiCk WiLlIe
the alt is rewired according to the new rewire for fd alt.
07-13-06, 10:53 PM
#30
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I figured as much...i usually can figure out problems, but this..........i have a coil that is working, i assume. I check the reverse switch and all is good. That is why i can`t finger this one. all searches for problems and i thing i`ve narrowed it down...go test..not the problem. I believe the alternator is getting a draw cuz its so hot i can`t touch it after a couple of minutes of runnig, and also i always seen 13.3 on my volt meter....now i`m only seein 11.9 at idle.
07-13-06, 10:55 PM
#31
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Thanks for your patience Icemark......I`ve lost mine with the car. This has been my daily driver since april and I`ve never had such a problem......I thought that maybe my ignition switch was bad, but then I`m grasping at straws too!!
07-13-06, 10:55 PM
#32
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go test..not the problem. I believe the alternator is getting a draw cuz its so hot i can`t touch it after a couple of minutes of runnig, and also i always seen 13.3 on my volt meter....now i`m only seein 11.9 at idle.
That alt should be at 14.4 at idle
07-13-06, 10:58 PM
#34
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Originally Posted by sLiCk WiLlIe
i have the s4 plug still attached, but i have a spade in the lower terminal to an s5 connector, so as I can switch if need be.
You should only be using one wire from the S4 alt plug. The other lead should be going to the battery
07-13-06, 10:58 PM
#35
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yes, it goes directly to the battery. Like i said, i never touched any of that before i had this problem........My tach is stuck at 600rpm when car is off, its 500rpm off at idle, but its dead on according to my safc at 2500-3000 and so on. Is this stuff all related?
07-13-06, 10:59 PM
#36
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sorry, I`ll be more specific. I have only one wire to the s4 plug....i can unplug this and disconnect my reference lead if i wanna switch back to my s4 alt....sorry for the confussion.
07-13-06, 11:07 PM
#39
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I think you have the wrong wire hooked up to the run lead, and it is backfeeding everything. The run lead normally feeds the CPU on a S4. The CPU turns on the idiot lights based on the run lead.
If you dis-connect the alt alltogether (with the engine not running), does the tach go back to normal.
and are you sure you didn't damage the reverse light wires when you dropped the tranny. The wires broken withe the insulation pulled back even a little, would blow the fuse randomly
If you dis-connect the alt alltogether (with the engine not running), does the tach go back to normal.
and are you sure you didn't damage the reverse light wires when you dropped the tranny. The wires broken withe the insulation pulled back even a little, would blow the fuse randomly
07-13-06, 11:11 PM
#40
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I`ll check everything tomorrow again. I never tried to disconnect the alt. and see if the tach went back. the wires on the alt have been hooked up like that since nov. i had the hooked up different before, and the battery went dead over night. i put it in storage fro almost 2 months with the battery hooked up and it started in april on the 3 or 4th turn
07-13-06, 11:22 PM
#42
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ok, i went and checked the wire that i had from the s4 plug to thefd alt. its right according to the install diagrams....i believer its the b/w wire. Too many skeeters to disconnect alt tonight.
07-13-06, 11:27 PM
#44
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I had the battery disconnected when i put the clutch in, that is the only time its been disconnected, except for recently not replacing the alt.
07-13-06, 11:27 PM
#45
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Originally Posted by sLiCk WiLlIe
I`m sure because i`ve got the terminals where they will only go pos. to pos,and neg. to neg.
07-13-06, 11:33 PM
#49
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I believe we were on track with the voltage back feeding...this would cause the cpu to not ground out at start up right? I`m tryin to search as we speak on this issue.