Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

How is the battery?

If you are getting a crazy draw, then remove each circuit fuse and connect an ammeter in place (with a series fuse). You should be easily able to pinpoint the problem.

sLiCk WiLlIe

iTrader: (10)

Icemark, I removed the wires to the alt, the idiot lights still will not light up, and the tach still stays at 600rpm when car is not running.

HAILERS

Your on a steep learning curve. humor

The WHITE/BLACK wire at the alternator small plug................remove the plug from the alternator. Put a GROUND on the WHITE/BLACK wire in the plug with the key to ON. The idiot lights should light up. If not, then either a fuse is blown OR the alt relay in the CPU is kaput.

Or if your obsessed witht the warning lights, then go to the CPU. Pull the plug off. Turn the key to ON. Put a ground on the Yellow/Blue wire. The warning lights should come on. If yes, then the problem is alt relay/fuse/white/black wire related. IF not then there is a Warning Light cluster problem OR the fuse that feeds it is kaput/disconnected/bad solder joint whatever.

That's series four cars only.

When the alt is not putting out, the ALTERNATOR puts a ground on the white/black wire which in turn puts a ground on the alt relays negative coil and pulls the alt relay in which in turn puts a ground on the Warning Light cluster which in turn makes the warning lights come on, along with the Shift Indicator light in the gauge cluster.

That's how a series FOUR alternator werks for the Warning lights.

The fuse for the alt relay is in the interior and is on the third row from the bottom, third fuse from your left when looking into the fuse box.

You really need to take a look at the BLACK/WHITE wire on that small alt plug. Key on it should have battery voltage on it. No voltage on the BLACK/WHITE wire with the key to ON? Blown METER fuse.

Do not ever confuse the WHITE/BLACK with the BLACK/WHITE wire.

sLiCk WiLlIe

iTrader: (10)

ok, so i put a ground on the white/black wire, nothing......i switched cpus with a working one....nothing. I took the cpu apart, if i push the connection together then my warning lights work, shift light comes on. Ok, heres another thing...with the w/b wire removed from the alt no charge, when i install it it draws so bad it almost shuts the car down......still tracking wires with a meter, and i`m now 12 days into this. Thanks for all the help so far......i`ve ruled out a few things, but i`m wondering if its a ground thing......???

HAILERS

IF you add one single extra ground to that car........................



ANyway, did you EVER remove the plug from the CPU and put a ground on the yellow wire with the blue stripe?? Yellow/Blue????

Have you ever pulled the plug off the alt and with the key to ON checked for approx 12v on both wires???? On the white/black you'll read approx batt voltage by seeing voltage feeding thru the alt relay coil. Normally the alt will put a gnd on that wire if the key is to ON and the alternator is not putting out.

By the way, it seems you have a CPU/plug problem but I can't tell unless you put a gnd on the yellow/blue wire with key to ON.

Also if the small plug is on the alternator, and key to ON, you should see approx 1-3 vdc on the white/black wire. You have to backprobe it with the connector on the alt. It's written in the free online FSM. Engine Electrical section. S4.

sLiCk WiLlIe

iTrader: (10)

ok, i grounded out the y/b wire idiot lights work......the w/b wire backprobed on the alt is 10.4v this is as s6 alt. now when i ground the w/b wire after disconnecting it from the alt. idiot lights come on. I add a ground from the alt. to the strut tower last year, otherwise all grounds are the same as factory, only they`ve beed cleaned and replaced.

sLiCk WiLlIe

iTrader: (10)

I~m ordering a new alt. just to make sure.

HAILERS

Well, if you put a gnd on the white/black wire at the alt with the plug disconnected and the warning lights came on, what that means to me is that when you reinstall the plug on the alt and turn the key to ON, the warning lights should come on. That's how a series four alt/warning lights work. S6???? go me.

EDIT: I see what you mean about the 10vdc at the white/black wire with the key to ON. Does not seem right. I'm pretty sure the fsm is right. I'll go check on my car tomorrow to make sure.

sLiCk WiLlIe

iTrader: (10)

sounds good, let me know what u find out!!

sLiCk WiLlIe

iTrader: (10)

Here`s another thing....my safc reads 100% at 15%throttle....and yes i do have it hooked to the boost pressure sensor. it goes pig rich in 1st and falls all over itself....tps have a play in this?

RETed

You're looking at the S-AFC *throttle* screen, but the signal is coming from the MAP sensor, and you're asking us what is wrong???

Are you even running a turbo boost sensor?


-Ted

sLiCk WiLlIe

iTrader: (10)

yes i am....n318, unless someone switched the sticker, then i do have 2 spares with n318 in white on the housing....I do believe this is a boost sensor. n326 is a s4 n/a atmospheric sensor correct? . before all my troubles the safc wouldn`t read 100% at 15%. i realize that i`m looking at the throttle on my safc. so tell me this why all of a sudden does my afr go below 10 at 15% throttle in all gears, and stay there until about 6000rpm??? Yes i am using a wideband o2...AEM is the brand. My settings on the safc are 3% @ 4000rpm 10% @ 5000rpm 17% @ 6000rpm 21% @ 7000rpm......this is on the high setting.

sLiCk WiLlIe

iTrader: (10)

Hailers-
any idea on the 10v coming from my w/b alt. wire?

HAILERS

With the key ON and engine OFF, backprobing the White/Black wire with it connected to the alternator, results in 3.0 vdc on my car. Much like the FSM says.

Pull the plug off and the white/black reads 11.8 or so vdc.

If you backprobe the white/black wire with the engine running and the plug on the alternator, the FSM says you should see approx 14 vdc. Mine shows around 12.5 vdc which is not good. I think I've monkey fucked around with my alternator too much and kinda screwed it up. It's a S5 alt in a series four. It does read 14 plus volts at the large output terminal on the alternator though. I'll replace it.....someday, someday. Not today.

sLiCk WiLlIe

iTrader: (10)

ok, thanks.....i`ll get that new alt and try it. any idea as why i`m running rich all of a sudden? thermo temp sensor bad, or air intake temp? or did my safc simply take a ****?