2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

need to reinstall 5/6 port actuators rods and sleeves ect. should i go with s4 or s5?

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Old Apr 27, 2007 | 11:07 AM
  #1  
DREYKO's Avatar
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I "lost" my emissions....
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From: lillington, nc
need to reinstall 5/6 port actuators rods and sleeves ect. should i go with s4 or s5?

ok guys. for those who dont know, i have a 88 n/a with a 91 n/a engine manifolds ect, running n the s4 electronics + safc. in case your wondering yes the oil pump was swapped.
now all my emissions are removed, no rats nest, no air pump, no cats, no nothing. and i have no 5/6 port sleeves. or rods or actuators.

i want to reinstall this system and so the question is, which one will be the easiest to hook up? i would preffer to keep the airpump out of this but i dont have to. and i dont think i have enough back pressure to operate this system currently, becuse im running a header to straight through mufflers.

and is the rats nest not being there going to cause a problem?

so s4 or s5 actuators? and how?

thanks guys
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Old Apr 27, 2007 | 11:19 AM
  #2  
micah's Avatar
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From: Newberg, Oregon
Well, if you are going to put them back on, you will need some other way of actuating them. (rpm switches + relays + air solenoids + small air compressor, or something) since you don't have your air pump. I'm not sure if the S4 LIM will bolt to the S5 UIM, so you'll have to use the S5 one I think. Since you aren't putting emissions back on, it shouldn't really matter either way since the ports open/close the exact same way on both LIM's (with air pressure).
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Old Apr 27, 2007 | 11:23 AM
  #3  
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Yea, S5 IIM won't bolt up to the S4 LIM. It requires some drilling.

Check out... : http://howto.globalvicinity.com/gv_w...i=45&co=1&vi=1

Partly down the page you will see that you need to drill and cut an area for the nut.

Some people say the S4 LIM flows better, but I don't see why. I also haven't seen any actual proof, just hearsay. So, stick with the S5, it will be easier.

Also, if you need a cheap RPM switch, the summit racing RPM switch is pretty nice and also cheap.
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Old Apr 27, 2007 | 12:48 PM
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From: SC
I am doing the same sort of thing with an S4 (see my post from earlier today) and am thinking about this option:

Why not just take a couple of pull type 12 VDC solenoids (McMaster Carr has them) and mount them with a braket in place of the pnuematic ones on the LIM and actuate them directly with an RPM triggered relay? It eliminates the need for any pressure source. Sort of like the the Rotary Ressurection mod but eliminating about 50% of the parts. I am going to measure the stock actuaotrs when I get home today and spec out the soleionds that can replace them and start fabricating a bracket. I'll keep you posted. (You will still need a LIM with the shafts but this could be a good fix for the rest of the "stuff").
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Old Apr 27, 2007 | 03:09 PM
  #5  
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Originally Posted by Zachmac
I am doing the same sort of thing with an S4 (see my post from earlier today) and am thinking about this option:

Why not just take a couple of pull type 12 VDC solenoids (McMaster Carr has them) and mount them with a braket in place of the pnuematic ones on the LIM and actuate them directly with an RPM triggered relay? It eliminates the need for any pressure source. Sort of like the the Rotary Ressurection mod but eliminating about 50% of the parts. I am going to measure the stock actuaotrs when I get home today and spec out the soleionds that can replace them and start fabricating a bracket. I'll keep you posted. (You will still need a LIM with the shafts but this could be a good fix for the rest of the "stuff").
Make sure the actuators will work near the insane high heat of the exhaust. Most of the time they will work, and stay there for a bit, but the heat will destroy them in a couple days. Some people have suggested using a cable.
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Old Apr 28, 2007 | 06:29 AM
  #6  
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Thanks, I hadn't really thought about that. Heat might be a problem. Most of the solenoids are rated for 266 F so heat shielding is certainly going to be needed. I think with header wrap and maybe a shield between the exhaust and intake ala the carb. guys it should be okay. Well see. The way I plan on mounting them it will be easy to go back to the pneumatic acutators so I will always have that option if the heat starts cooking solenoids. Since I'll be triggering off justRPM it will be easy enough to run periodic tests to see if the are still working (assuming I get the whole thing working to begin with!)
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