fc3schick87

iTrader: (1)

ok so i have a soild beep noise. the same type of beep if you were to leave your doors open. it comes from the idiot cluster area.


i just did an engine swap. i have an 87 n/a harness on a tii 87 engine (yes it works fine) but i think i may have cracked a wire or crossed something up with the alternator.


the idiot cluster remains all lit when car is running.

when i turn on ignition the beep starts up after 8 secconds of turning the key to the on/acc possition.

only time i have encounterd this befor is when/if my rx7 stalled while driving it.

idiot cluster stays on when car is on. solid beep noise (not coolant or oil)

i have an s5 alternator on my s4. it is wired correctly.
i inspected my wireing going to the back of the alternator. and terminals and fuse and all. i didnt find any fault in the wire.

villin

i had kind of the same issue but that is because my s4 alt was crapped out. i switched in a s5 and rewired it and it stopped. just double check all connects and look for loose wires. also did you mess with any interior wires?

iceblue

wire it the other way lol. Sounds like the ALT is wired wrong.

fc3schick87

iTrader: (1)

how does it sound the alt is wired wrong?
i followed a diagram and it worked for 3 years befor the swap.

i'll go get the alternator tested on and off the car.....

fc3schick87

iTrader: (1)

oh and also....... my volt meter doesnt work on my dash....... stops working randomly. doubtfull that its the actual guage itself.

villin

whats the worst thing that could happen? if it still dosnt do anything then you know 100% its not wiring.

fc3schick87

iTrader: (1)

100% positive. look how easy the s5 is.


using this.
L terminal goes to dash. L terminal is responcible for giving your volt guage the proper reading.
i think L wire is cracked some where down the line. posibly?
or the alt is bad.

but does any one think it could be anything other then this.

villin

that could be a very good possibility. are they the same wires before the swap or are they newer wires? if they are older ya might have pinched the coating and exposed the actual wire itself.

fc3schick87

iTrader: (1)

ya maybe i'll just re-run it. i dk where it goes though.......
i am great at wireing so thats not the problem. but the problem is finding where it goes.. i am bad at diagrams at times

villin

yea wiring diagrams are a pita sometimes. honestly though its your best bet.

iceblue

Then test the ALT. You never said you ran it before and it worked. idiot light on mean alt is fucked its not rocket science.

fc3schick87

iTrader: (1)

lol are you sure you read everything correctly?

could be one of a few things. bad alt (highly unlikely since it was good 3 days befor we swapped engines)
the L wire is bad down the line (posible cuz we were playing around with wire harness)

or something else with the ignition system, relay, wire, or what ever else is along the lines of the idiot cluster that hasto do with what position the key is in.

you dont have to get frustrated buddy. its not rocket science. its a mazda with old wires

villin

^that could be it to. have the alt checked and check that wire. if it persists then its something else entirely.

fc3schick87

iTrader: (1)

thanx for the advice. question is. what could the "something else entirely" but i aint there yet. but its on my mind.

villin

just thought of something to did you check all your grounds? but dont think to far into it. just take the normal checklist steps.

iceblue

The ALT is an exciter wire. The 12V wire just switches the system to on. The other wire is on a diode. the cluster has nothing to do with the back wires its only concerned with the output voltage of the ALT or the POST on the top. The car starts it feeds the alt 12vdc tells it to turn on the other one is just a momentary current to the idiot cluster. When the4 alt fails or is not excited all lights come now.

An idiot wrote that diagram because there all fucked in the head.

fc3schick87

iTrader: (1)

wow you dont have to be rude. i didnt know this part. but i did obiously know that the alt had to do with my idiot lights.


so . you say the custer has nothing to do with the alt, but what about the volt guage i have on my n/a cluster. that doesnt work now that i have buzzing.

also. the alt may not be dead if the alt isnt getting the signal from L (wire labled from dash)
iceblue. dont be so rude...... not every one knows everything. they come here to learn. i aint a newb by any means. but i dont know everything about my car yet.

why are you in this section if your going to be rude to people asking for help on their rx7s?

Mazdapunk87

yeah not everyone knows everything , she is just trying to ask for help from someone that might know ,

villin

how new is the alt? rebuilt? parts car? was it on the other motor?

iceblue

ahh hell I've had to much beer to try and explain this. Please read the ******* service Manuel under engine electrical from chapter 5-1 to 5- 21 particularly 5-6 past that this is waste of time. I'm going to bed

fc3schick87

iTrader: (1)

read it plenty. hard for me to make sence of it. me and my bf both were reading threw it for the troubleshooting section . nothing about buzzers from the dash .

please just go ahead and leave this thread till you sober up and are a bit nicer.


3 years ago my s4 alt died. i got an s5 from a buddy for free. tested great. put it on. wired it wrong. then right. ran great for 3 years. ran car 2 days befor we pulled engine. dropped in engine. same wire harness (slight mod to tips to work with tii engine) and the rest didnt need modifications other then o2 and knock sensor wires.


went to start car and after 8 secconds of ign on engine off. it beeps. not a buzz like coolant. but a beep. solid beep. same tone as if you were to keep the door open on an s4.
but not a beep beep. a solid tone as if you were to stall out .

iceblue

yeah the diagram gave me a headache the fsm makes sense.

iceblue

now ur making no sense. does the car run? If not now it buzzes with lights on cluster if the key is left on? Is it just me or does this sound normal?

I want a Macdonald's egg mcmuffin

fc3schick87

iTrader: (1)

omg its not going to sound right if you keep having me explane myself when its all above........

its explaned in detail in the first post.... try reading it again.

key on. idiot lights and buzz from center of dash after 8 secconds

key on, car running. idiot lights all on, buzzes the same

car driving, idiot lights on. buzzes the same.


maybe you should just walk away from the computer and get that egg mcmuffin instead of posting while drinking. and coming across as being rude and ignorant

iceblue

yup as said in beginning sounds like alt is fucked. bring me my egg mc muffin please.

never mind I went and got some steak out of fridge.