In need of a racing clutch
03-06-09, 07:51 AM
#1
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In need of a racing clutch
I was wondering if anyone had a racing clutch. Id like a stage 4 but a stage 3 would be fine i need it for gtu 1988 s4 non turbo motor. Thanks get back at me asap 
03-06-09, 09:06 AM
#3
MECP Certified Installer
Are you actually racing the car and need a racing clutch? Will this car still be your daily driver or ever be driven on the street? If you plan on any street driving, do you live in a place that has any hills?
Racing clutches on a street driven car are a bad idea. The like to immediately grab with no slip, which makes it dificult to get going from a stop without stalling or overheating the clutch trying to not stall the car. Overheating a racing clutch ruins it almost instantly. Kevlar friction material melts to the face of the flywheel and pressure plate causing constant slip when overheated.
Racing clutches on a street driven car are a bad idea. The like to immediately grab with no slip, which makes it dificult to get going from a stop without stalling or overheating the clutch trying to not stall the car. Overheating a racing clutch ruins it almost instantly. Kevlar friction material melts to the face of the flywheel and pressure plate causing constant slip when overheated.
03-06-09, 10:36 AM
#4
Rotary Enthusiast
it takes sooooo long to start going using a racing clutch. I'm using an excedy puck clutch and it has amazing grab. I recommend it but not really though for daily street use
03-06-09, 02:50 PM
#6
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I would skip stage 1 through 13 and go strait to 14. Since your motor is putting out about 125 TQ you might want to seriously be thinking about upgrading to stage 15.
This is only a stage 8 (made for top fuel dragsters). If might take a little work, but I would just get two of these and stack them. Basically a stage 16 right?
That MIGHT be able to handle the monster in your engine bay. Good luck!
This is only a stage 8 (made for top fuel dragsters). If might take a little work, but I would just get two of these and stack them. Basically a stage 16 right?
That MIGHT be able to handle the monster in your engine bay. Good luck!
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03-07-09, 04:31 AM
#9
well rested,buffet o food
03-07-09, 09:05 AM
#10
I used to daily drive a nonturbo with an unsprung 4 puck (previous owner had installed it). It's just retarded. They wear out fast, they chatter badly, and they're really annoying in parking lots. Don't ever get more clutch than you need. With a nonturbo all you need is some kind of performance street disc.
03-07-09, 09:28 AM
#11
BTW, I think this clutch is only a Stage 1, as per the previous owner of my car
Please, define, in terms of what Need for Speed/Tokyo Xtreme Racer/whatever game are we talking about stages of clutches? A Stage 3 -4clutch as per NFS Underground 1 is enough for a tricked-out (does that mean whored-out?) 1000-hp Skyline, whereas in Tokyo Xtreme Racer 3, it's better suited to about a 300-hp car. Regardless, You probably only need a stage 2 
(in case you're incompetent enough that you didn't get it, the teal for the last section means it's all sarcasm; get yourself a nice, sporty, street clutch and be done with it.)
Last edited by MmSadda; 03-07-09 at 09:32 AM.
03-07-09, 09:29 AM
#12
MECP Certified Installer
I used to daily drive a nonturbo with an unsprung 4 puck (previous owner had installed it). It's just retarded. They wear out fast, they chatter badly, and they're really annoying in parking lots. Don't ever get more clutch than you need. With a nonturbo all you need is some kind of performance street disc.
03-07-09, 09:36 AM
#13
Mine was too, at first, but it's gotten pretty well-worn now. I'd guess that's all this guy can/would want to handle. Not to mention, anything else is just unnecessary. One would be better off lightening the flyswheel, if you want better performance and things to feel more 'grabby'
BTW, you make some very intelligent posts for such a new member. It's good to have your sort around here.
BTW, you make some very intelligent posts for such a new member. It's good to have your sort around here.
03-07-09, 10:05 AM
#14
MECP Certified Installer
Mine was too, at first, but it's gotten pretty well-worn now. I'd guess that's all this guy can/would want to handle. Not to mention, anything else is just unnecessary. One would be better off lightening the flyswheel, if you want better performance and things to feel more 'grabby'
BTW, you make some very intelligent posts for such a new member. It's good to have your sort around here.
BTW, you make some very intelligent posts for such a new member. It's good to have your sort around here.
03-07-09, 11:16 AM
#17
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My buddy has a sick racing clutch un sprung... It is almost new the reason he doesn't use it is he wrecked his non turbo then get a turbo so it wont work with his turbo car. He wants $75 bucks for a sick a$$ clutch. PM me and I will shoot you his number. You won't get a better deal or sicker racing clutch for non turbo anywhere for this price.
03-07-09, 11:56 AM
#18
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Sorry, I think you are going to need to save your popcorn and wanking for another thread. Don't worry, there is always somebody posting something stupid, so it shouldn't take long. If you can't wait, you can always search for the classics like the lagless turbo:
https://www.rx7club.com/single-turbo-rx-7s-23/need-input-fast-spooling-turbo-629323/
03-07-09, 02:51 PM
#20
as long as the clutch can withstand 200ft tq, and the pressure plate can also clamp more then 200ft tq, then you are good for street driving and occasional clutch drops.
If you do more clutch drops then its more suitable to get something that can withstand and clamp more then 250ft tq.
An ACT Street/Strip clutch kit is more then enought for the street.
You can go to racingbeat.com and get one of theirs too, Mazdatrix has detailed info on clutches if you want to read up on it.
If you do more clutch drops then its more suitable to get something that can withstand and clamp more then 250ft tq.
An ACT Street/Strip clutch kit is more then enought for the street.
You can go to racingbeat.com and get one of theirs too, Mazdatrix has detailed info on clutches if you want to read up on it.
03-09-09, 07:59 AM
#21
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i appreciate all you replies thanks and by that i mean like a six puck disc with or without springs but i understand all the problems it may bring on the hills and driving it on the street and all bacuse my brother had hid daily driving with a stage 3 clutch (wih springs) and ive actuallly got a better set up i guess you can say than him and id like a stage four for no slippin and very good grip and i would like to put i lighter flywheel to to feel that faster rev and if anyone has any info on a good light flywheel id appreciate that to. . i really like the idea of having a 4 puck racing clutch but i have about 5 bills to buy it of ebay or anything. well thanks get back....
03-09-09, 04:06 PM
#22
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Lol! Wow.
Someone's mom REALLY should have used a condom. I'm not sure what part of that post contains the most fail. They either need to increase the level of education in Georgia, or let loose dozens of deadly animals each week to re-start natural selection. Obviously it has failed us.
Good luck, I still think you should go with a stage 13 spinal tap clutch, or a stage 29 single puck unsprung. I heard it is made out of the actual ceramic plates used to protect the pilots from the heat of re-entry. I also heard it is really hard to balance a single puck clutch, I could be wrong.
In all seriousness, you are WAY over thinking it. Get a stock clutch replacement or something similar, pay off your 5 bills, and get on your way. You are an NA, you seriously are doing nothing spectacular that would require a huge clutch upgrade.
P.S. Attempt to use capitalization and punctuation in future posts if you don't want to look like a complete idiot. I fear that will only help so much with you though.
Someone's mom REALLY should have used a condom. I'm not sure what part of that post contains the most fail. They either need to increase the level of education in Georgia, or let loose dozens of deadly animals each week to re-start natural selection. Obviously it has failed us.
Good luck, I still think you should go with a stage 13 spinal tap clutch, or a stage 29 single puck unsprung. I heard it is made out of the actual ceramic plates used to protect the pilots from the heat of re-entry. I also heard it is really hard to balance a single puck clutch, I could be wrong.
In all seriousness, you are WAY over thinking it. Get a stock clutch replacement or something similar, pay off your 5 bills, and get on your way. You are an NA, you seriously are doing nothing spectacular that would require a huge clutch upgrade.
P.S. Attempt to use capitalization and punctuation in future posts if you don't want to look like a complete idiot. I fear that will only help so much with you though.
03-09-09, 09:51 PM
#23
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You realize that your engine is only rated at a peak torque of 138 lb-ft, right?
A new 4-puck racing clutch disk is only about $100 to $150. I don't understand why you would want to spend your money on something like that when you seem to be on a tight budget, but here you go:
http://www.mazdatrix.com
http://www.racingbeat.com
I think that was gangsta ricer speak for "$500".
http://www.mazdatrix.com
http://www.racingbeat.com
I think that was gangsta ricer speak for "$500".
03-09-09, 10:20 PM
#25
