Rotary Racer

This weekend I am going to shoot the color on the GTUs engine bay. Should I keep it totally stock and use the same noble white? Or should I put a little bling bling in it and add some pearl? Or should I re-paint the whole car a different color and start with the engine bay? The only color I have thought about re-painting my car in besides the stock noble white is the color the new 350z comes in, it’s a goldish copper color. But every time I talk about that color people hate it. What do you all think?

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

um go for a stock white. pearl i think would look wierd under the hood. i also think if you wanna do the orange outside do a different color under the hood, like a charcoal grey.

mike

seveninphilly

iTrader: (7)

I say a nice gloss black easy to hide a little grime, and makes the aluminum shine

banzaitoyota

Stock, only shhot with B/C to make it easier to clean

jeremy1

Shoot it the color of the outside then coated with like that rock guard coating. that would be super resistant to oil and easy to clean. That is what I always wanted to do.
Jeremy

RarestRX

Yo,


Use gold leaf, like the McLaren F1! Super heat resistant...custom...bling BLING!

How about that wierd copper color that the Honda Element comes in?

I'm not a fan of the different color for the engine bay thing...it looks like the car has been color changed and you're too lazy to do the engine compartment.

It don't look right!

Kevin
1989 GTUs "I hate UPS."

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

bare metal with a clear coat!

mike

jon88se

I like that copper orange color for the 350Z and think it would look nice on an FC w/ tasteful wheels and suspension but the bay has to match the outside. I'm not into cleaning out my engine bay except for a couple of power washes in the summertime just to remove grime, not necessarily make it pretty noble white = hard to keep clean in the bay which is sounds like u are into ever think of a black w/ a quality clear coat? I happen to think cars look pretty bad *** w/ black engine bays - just my taste though. it also lets you change the colors outside every so often without ripping your motor hehe

dr0x

Fitness Stain

also black absorbs more heat right.....cant be a bad thing for the motor

Rotary Racer

All you people with your clear coat ideas. You know that clear coat turns yellow when it is exposed to constant heat, especially Rotary heat . Well looks like I am just going to do stock noble white. So much for being different.

- Dana "Just another white FC"

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

hey white fc's rule!

mike

RarestRX

Yo,


Go with felt, or ****!! *grin* Tiger stripe!

Were you thinking of the stock paint, or some kind of marine or high temp paint?

Didn't that one moderator with the 10th AE go with some crazy paint?

Kevin
1989 GTUs "I still hate UPS."

Rotary Racer

I am going to go with the stock paint code but use a one stage application. Reason being that its relatively inexpensive and it holds up to the heat and oil. Oh btw Kev I talked to my UPS lady and she said do not throw away any part of the box the inspector will want to see it all to see who is at blame. But she said its UPS’s fault the people who load the trucks in the morning are knuckle dragging morons.

- Dana “White engine bay and lots of polished parts = more time cleaning than driving”

jon88se

dana, I assume this is all in prep for your TII swap, right? are you keeping the NA stuff from the tranny back? best break out them toothbrushes, you've got cleaning ahead of you when it's all installed and driven on

Rotary Racer

I am going to rebuild the J-Spec TII tranny that I have but I am going to use the GTUs rear end. I am going to have Mazdatrix build me a custom drive shaft with the TII yoke and the N/A connector plate. I am not worried about blowing it out because I am not going to go crazzy on power.

- Dana "from 160 to 205 that’s 45 increase!! I am good with that "

jon88se

heehee famous last words you have the exhaust, you have the intake...when you put the TII motor in adding a walbro pump, a TID, ported wastegate and some slightly larger secondaries will give you the standard 230 rwhp safely...thats more than 45 hehe

*205 my tush*

Rotary Racer

Well let’s put it this way. I am going to mod for safety and efficacy. When I rebuild the motor I am going to smoothen out the ports, port match intakes that sort of deal. I am going to port the waste gate but not because I am going to run big boost I just don’t want to see any boost creep on a cold night. I need a new fuel pump for the conversion anyway so I will run a FD or a Walbro just to be safe. The FMIC is for two reasons again safety and I want to keep the N/A hood. I will eventually run a piggy back to final tune on a dyno and an EBC to keep the boost in check. Everything else is going to be stock. Like I said I don’t want to run the “Big HP”, but you are right all said and done it will be around 230ish but I do not need more than that. But now If I dyno @ more then that I am not going to complain but If I dyno lower I will not be disappointed (as long as its not lower than stock).

Dana “White engine bay is as white engine bay does, Lots of cleaning ”