2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Need Lifeline, Help please!!

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Old Sep 25, 2003 | 08:24 AM
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Lightbulb Need Lifeline, Help please!!

Doing a flush and fill my car was beeping like every second and I shut the the engine off. It won't start and the starter only clicks. Battery and starter checked out good, got new wires and plugs. What do I check next?
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Old Sep 25, 2003 | 08:30 AM
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Its possible your starter might have a spot were it gets stuck on the fly wheel.... I had that problem once...Have some friends push start you and then you'll know

keep us informed
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Old Sep 25, 2003 | 08:32 AM
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was the low coolant idiot light going, that causes a beep. that is the sensor on the top of the rad.

Take the negative battery off for a few minutes. But it back on really well, and try it. It sounds like its low on juice. Are you sure that no wires were knocked off during the drain and fill.
What year and model is it?
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Old Sep 25, 2003 | 08:49 AM
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88 gxl. wasn't the coolant buzzer. I got the battery charged up and don't see a suspicious loose wire but some wires don't go to anything. Thanks for reply.
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Old Sep 25, 2003 | 09:26 AM
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try giving it a tap with something.

sometimes, the solenoid contacts get corroded and the juice does not get to the starter motor.

or you are on a dead spot and the starter ain't gonna turn even with juice flowing.

Hugues -
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Old Sep 25, 2003 | 12:35 PM
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Ok, I hit it, beat it and everything else! Starter sounds different, strong click then faint click and the battery cables feel extra warm. I was thinking a short somewhere but fuses look good I can't stand giving up!

Last edited by SevenGirl; Sep 25, 2003 at 12:37 PM.
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Old Sep 25, 2003 | 12:54 PM
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I've been there. Stay persistent maybe more ideas will come. Wish I could lend a hand.
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Old Sep 25, 2003 | 01:01 PM
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Check the wiring:

from battery + to B terminal on the switch
from M terminal on switch to starter
I assume the starter assembly is properly grounded (should be)

Make sure battery is fully charged

If checks out ok, most likely the starter needs to be replaced.

Hugues -
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Old Sep 25, 2003 | 01:08 PM
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Check the wiring:

from battery + to B terminal on the switch
from M terminal on switch to starter
I assume the starter assembly is properly grounded (should be)

Check the battery:

is it fully charged ?

If checks out ok, most likely the starter needs to be replaced. You can get one, try it, and if it does same thing, just return it for refund.

Hugues -
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Old Sep 25, 2003 | 01:18 PM
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I was about to ask if you'd put a DMM on it. Good Luck. Check out Hugues's web site for tech info, when you get a chance
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Old Sep 25, 2003 | 01:55 PM
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From: 80* >
always check your fuses
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Old Sep 25, 2003 | 06:07 PM
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From: LA
Originally posted by hugues
Check the wiring:

from battery + to B terminal on the switch
from M terminal on switch to starter
I assume the starter assembly is properly grounded (should be)

Check the battery:

is it fully charged ?

If checks out ok, most likely the starter needs to be replaced. You can get one, try it, and if it does same thing, just return it for refund.

Hugues -
Battery is fully charged:
12.0 volts @ B & M terminals. Meter doesn't register steady voltage @ S terminal- no where near 12.0 and measured low resistance between each- 0 between B&M- good. Thank you.
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Old Sep 25, 2003 | 07:47 PM
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a good battery would register 12.6 volts, 2.1 volts per cell. a battery at 12 volts even is at less than 50% ca capacity if i remember correctly.
if your terminals are tight and free of corrosion, your starter is wired properly (one big wire, one small) and you hear the relay energizing (not the solenoid), you more than likely need a rebuild. Ive read you already used then hammer technique, and this may be the only time i dont tell you to use a bigger one. That technique is usually good for one time only. Good thing is anyone could take off one of these starters, 14mm - 12mm sockets, 3/8 rachet and your set. take it down to the nearest rebuilder and 70$ later your rollin. hope this helps.
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Old Sep 26, 2003 | 10:03 AM
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Thanks for the input. Looking at the test numbers, it should work but I don't see another problem keeping it from starting. I'll order a new starter today and have tools to put it on.
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Old Sep 26, 2003 | 11:25 AM
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Originally posted by SevenGirl
and the battery cables feel extra warm.
You are on it.
The heat in the cable should not happen.
It means there is resistance (voltage drop) right near the hottest place.
A common failure point is where the terminal joins the cable.
It can corrode inside and still look good.
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Old Sep 26, 2003 | 11:40 AM
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or just change the battery cable to starter, if you have doubts about the cabling.

Look for post by hypntz7 about battery cable upgrade or something.

Hugues -
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Old Sep 26, 2003 | 11:46 AM
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From: LA
Originally posted by SureShot
You are on it.
The heat in the cable should not happen.
It means there is resistance (voltage drop) right near the hottest place.
A common failure point is where the terminal joins the cable.
It can corrode inside and still look good.
I didn't feel comfortable with the cables... why, I don't know, except the warm feel didn't set right with me, and had included a new OEM set with the starter order. I am wondering if the cables are the real problem and the starter is ok.. I'll throw jumper cables on and test ... thoughts?

Last edited by SevenGirl; Sep 26, 2003 at 11:51 AM.
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Old Sep 26, 2003 | 11:50 AM
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right on, cables/connectors may/will fail on older cars.

hugues -
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Old Sep 26, 2003 | 11:57 AM
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SureShot, Hugues thank you both New wiring is on the To-do list anyway. I'll get the battery cables changed first. Thanks a zillion for your help and saving me tons of dollars
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