NEED: Jspec wiring diagrams for S5 TII/FSM
07-02-07, 09:48 PM
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DriftFC
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NEED: Jspec wiring diagrams for S5 TII/FSM
Anyone have them and or the FSM.
Maybe Australian, european, japanese. whatever, anywhere but north american.
In english preferably.
Let me know, thanks
Maybe Australian, european, japanese. whatever, anywhere but north american.
In english preferably.
Let me know, thanks
07-03-07, 05:59 AM
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What do you need that's not in the US FSM?
The Japanese FSM will not be in English for obvious reasons. It would be very expensive to have translated due to it's size, so don't hold your breath on this.
Personally I've had very few issues using the US FSM for my car.
The Japanese FSM will not be in English for obvious reasons. It would be very expensive to have translated due to it's size, so don't hold your breath on this.
Personally I've had very few issues using the US FSM for my car.
07-03-07, 05:16 PM
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What do you need that's not in the US FSM?
The Japanese FSM will not be in English for obvious reasons. It would be very expensive to have translated due to it's size, so don't hold your breath on this.
Personally I've had very few issues using the US FSM for my car.
The Japanese FSM will not be in English for obvious reasons. It would be very expensive to have translated due to it's size, so don't hold your breath on this.
Personally I've had very few issues using the US FSM for my car.
Ugh, Starter cut relay. and Interlock switch. Does your car have them? I cant find either.
There is no theft protection, and you defiantly did not have to hold down the clutch to start the car.
07-04-07, 07:11 AM
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Originally Posted by SilkRoad
Starter cut relay. and Interlock switch.
There's no factory alarm, so no starter cut relay. Compared to other countries, car theft was relatively rare in Japan in the 80's so factory alarms weren't common.
I guess there's no clutch interlock because Mazda believed the Japanese could be trusted to not attempt to start the car in gear, but Americans couldn't.
07-04-07, 01:37 PM
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I guess there's no clutch interlock because Mazda believed the Japanese could be trusted to not attempt to start the car in gear, but Americans couldn't. ************************************************** *************
More truth to that than I'd care to admit. Here I am, working on the car and want to crank the engine over. I reach in the window and turn the key..........awwww shucks, gotta get in and press the clutch pedal. Don't wanna get in the car. I just wanna turn the engine over a touch.
The interlock switch, along with chimes and bells to tell you the damn door is open. Damn it. I have that door open for a reason and don't WANT a freaking chime going off all the day long while I have it open.
These devices were made for protecting the weak minded few at the cost of the rest of us. Ralph Nader and Joan Claybrook and their ilk...........go to the hot place. The sooner the better.
Someday I'll tell you what I think about Daytime Running Lights and the honking of the horn when a car is locked by the owner with his remote lock in his key.
More truth to that than I'd care to admit. Here I am, working on the car and want to crank the engine over. I reach in the window and turn the key..........awwww shucks, gotta get in and press the clutch pedal. Don't wanna get in the car. I just wanna turn the engine over a touch.
The interlock switch, along with chimes and bells to tell you the damn door is open. Damn it. I have that door open for a reason and don't WANT a freaking chime going off all the day long while I have it open.
These devices were made for protecting the weak minded few at the cost of the rest of us. Ralph Nader and Joan Claybrook and their ilk...........go to the hot place. The sooner the better.
Someday I'll tell you what I think about Daytime Running Lights and the honking of the horn when a car is locked by the owner with his remote lock in his key.
07-04-07, 05:45 PM
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They don’t exist.
There's no factory alarm, so no starter cut relay. Compared to other countries, car theft was relatively rare in Japan in the 80's so factory alarms weren't common.
I guess there's no clutch interlock because Mazda believed the Japanese could be trusted to not attempt to start the car in gear, but Americans couldn't.
There's no factory alarm, so no starter cut relay. Compared to other countries, car theft was relatively rare in Japan in the 80's so factory alarms weren't common.
I guess there's no clutch interlock because Mazda believed the Japanese could be trusted to not attempt to start the car in gear, but Americans couldn't.
now I'm still trying to figure out why the starter does nothing. like all i want is for the stupid thing to crank, i dont want it to start or anything, just the re-assurance that i have the wiring correct. but it does nothing. only the front/main harness and the engine harness and ECU are in the car.
Like only the stuff i think needs to be attached for the starter to crank is attached. most of the dash harness is not connected, for instance, the clutch switch, mainly because i dont have one.
But i'm begining to think that its my S4 ignition thats plugged into a S5 harness. what you think?! any ideas?
07-04-07, 06:27 PM
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Whether series four or series five, each series has five wires either coming or going to/out of the ignition switch pigtail
When you go to START, the power leaves on the BR (black/red) wire and on the series five it leaves on the B/L (black/blue).
So you just need to run a wire from one or the other (B/R or B/L) depending on which it is on your car, to the starters small blade connector on the starter solenoid.
I explained the path on another post on another thread for both series four and series five. Ain't a gonna do it again.
Both series FSM are online and if your cars harnesses are not like those, then make a work around, like I suggested above. Run a wire from either the B/R or B/L wire on the ignition switches pigtail to the starter solenoid.
When you go to START, the power leaves on the BR (black/red) wire and on the series five it leaves on the B/L (black/blue).
So you just need to run a wire from one or the other (B/R or B/L) depending on which it is on your car, to the starters small blade connector on the starter solenoid.
I explained the path on another post on another thread for both series four and series five. Ain't a gonna do it again.
Both series FSM are online and if your cars harnesses are not like those, then make a work around, like I suggested above. Run a wire from either the B/R or B/L wire on the ignition switches pigtail to the starter solenoid.
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07-04-07, 06:30 PM
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I have the S5 JDM wiring diagram in japanese. PM me an email address that can handle 15 MB attachments.
Looking at it, the circuit comes from the ignition switch to the front harness, then to the engine harness through connector X-08. In the engine harness there is a switch that I have no clue what it does. Then it goes to the starter.
Looking at it, the circuit comes from the ignition switch to the front harness, then to the engine harness through connector X-08. In the engine harness there is a switch that I have no clue what it does. Then it goes to the starter.
07-04-07, 06:57 PM
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On a USA AUTOMATIC car, it will go thru X-08 then to the INHIBITOR switch on its way to the starter.
On a USA MANUAL car, it will go thru X-09, then to the INTERLOCK switch on its way to the starter.
On a USA MANUAL car, it will go thru X-09, then to the INTERLOCK switch on its way to the starter.
07-05-07, 12:25 AM
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DriftFC
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Thanks for the information.
Ok, so i tried a jumper wire. from the thick black/red on the ignition to the spade terminal on the starter, and nothing. I have one more idea which involves me just getting better contact on my battery, considering im using jumper cables.
Any more suggestions?
Ok, so i tried a jumper wire. from the thick black/red on the ignition to the spade terminal on the starter, and nothing. I have one more idea which involves me just getting better contact on my battery, considering im using jumper cables.
Any more suggestions?
07-05-07, 08:17 AM
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Then I'd go to the pure black wire on the ignition switches pigtail and see if there is 12v on it . Key does NOT have to be ON for that wire to get batt voltage.
OR, just run a wire from that pure black wire to the spade on the starter solnenoid. If you just touch that small blade the starter should start to spin. Make sure your out of gear doing that. IF you have 12v on that pure black wire and you get no action out of the starter...........starter wired wrong? no negative cable from the battery attached to the engine at the starters long bolt....bad solenoid.
Just get a screwdriver and use it to jump b/t the small blade and the large wire on the starter solnenoid. It should spin if the gnd it there and there is batt voltage going to the large terminal on the starter solenoid.
OR, just run a wire from that pure black wire to the spade on the starter solnenoid. If you just touch that small blade the starter should start to spin. Make sure your out of gear doing that. IF you have 12v on that pure black wire and you get no action out of the starter...........starter wired wrong? no negative cable from the battery attached to the engine at the starters long bolt....bad solenoid.
Just get a screwdriver and use it to jump b/t the small blade and the large wire on the starter solnenoid. It should spin if the gnd it there and there is batt voltage going to the large terminal on the starter solenoid.
07-05-07, 09:25 PM
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Ok, so i got out the multimeter.
12 whatever voltage across the battery. when i connect the battery, its drops, drastically.
I dont know what wrong. any suggestions?
12 whatever voltage across the battery. when i connect the battery, its drops, drastically.
I dont know what wrong. any suggestions?
07-05-07, 09:56 PM
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Bad battery? Put that battery in your other car and see if it's any good.
Was this with the key to ON? Or just putting the cables on the battery the voltage went down?
A half *** bad battery might very well show 12v or so with no load on it at all, but if you put it in a car and turn the key on go waaaaaaay down.
Yeah. Try it in another car. Or a batt out of another car in it.
Was this with the key to ON? Or just putting the cables on the battery the voltage went down?
A half *** bad battery might very well show 12v or so with no load on it at all, but if you put it in a car and turn the key on go waaaaaaay down.
Yeah. Try it in another car. Or a batt out of another car in it.
07-05-07, 10:14 PM
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Bad battery? Put that battery in your other car and see if it's any good.
Was this with the key to ON? Or just putting the cables on the battery the voltage went down?
A half *** bad battery might very well show 12v or so with no load on it at all, but if you put it in a car and turn the key on go waaaaaaay down.
Yeah. Try it in another car. Or a batt out of another car in it.
Was this with the key to ON? Or just putting the cables on the battery the voltage went down?
A half *** bad battery might very well show 12v or so with no load on it at all, but if you put it in a car and turn the key on go waaaaaaay down.
Yeah. Try it in another car. Or a batt out of another car in it.
07-07-07, 02:30 PM
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OK GOT ER' FIGURED!!
So i charged the battery. Hooked it up, when i went to install the second terminal, it sparked badly. So there is a short. FACK...lol...ok so i figure, I'll slowly remove everything i changed and see what causes it to not short. First i start my disconnecting the starter, mainly becuase i had no idea what the positive and negative post were, and i didnt take it apart. So i try it and it doesnt short. Cool. So i just **** around with the starter till i find a combination that work.
Try it out, and get one that doesnt spark. I touch my solenoid jumper to the pos. and it clicks! WOOT! Then i hook up the normal solenoid black/red turn the key....Click Click....battery is dead again....but at least i know the starter works and none of the wiring is frying
Thanks for everyones help
So i charged the battery. Hooked it up, when i went to install the second terminal, it sparked badly. So there is a short. FACK...lol...ok so i figure, I'll slowly remove everything i changed and see what causes it to not short. First i start my disconnecting the starter, mainly becuase i had no idea what the positive and negative post were, and i didnt take it apart. So i try it and it doesnt short. Cool. So i just **** around with the starter till i find a combination that work.
Try it out, and get one that doesnt spark. I touch my solenoid jumper to the pos. and it clicks! WOOT! Then i hook up the normal solenoid black/red turn the key....Click Click....battery is dead again....but at least i know the starter works and none of the wiring is frying
Thanks for everyones help
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