MaxJenius211

Hi Guys,
I began my drive shaft u-joint replacement project today. I removed the y-pipe, heat shield and removed the driveshaft after marking the flanges.

So I tried to grind out the stakes of the bearing caps with a dremel. I then attempted to pound out a bearing cap with no luck. I really need some advise on doing this. I am just a regular joe with a garage and average tools so any help would really be appreciated.

-Max

micah

Use a socket the same size as the bearing cap... pound on that instead of the cap... makes it a lot easier.

Omixeo

iTrader: (1)

I thought they weren't replaceable.

micah

Think again!

http://www.rotorwiki.com/index.php/R..._FC_Driveshaft

They technically aren't serviceable... but the only thing that makes them not seviceable is the fact that they spot weld the caps in rather than using clips like you'd find on a truck/jeep/etc.

scrip7

iTrader: (6)

I just replaced the u-joints in my N/A. Mazda insists they aren't replaceable, Mazdatrix wants to sell you a new oem shaft or aftermarket shaft. They are very much replaceable, for N/A as well as TII. It is best not to "pound them out" with a socket like you normally would with a non-staked joint. The factory staking of the joint requires more press force to get the caps out. I prefer using a hydraulic press with proper size sockets, one to push against the cap and another to "receive" the opposing cap, supporting the yoke properly. You would be surprised how much you can distort the shape of the yokes when banging them with a hammer, causing vibration, however slight.

Rockford sells the u-joints for your car here:

http://www.rockforddriveline.com/replacem.htm

MaxJenius211

Is there any wisdom in drilling the %$@ out of the bearing caps to try and get the U joint out?

-Max

buttsjim

I made a press using a gear puller, but you should be able to pound them out with a hammer fairly easily.

If you have a sledge hammer, you can rest the ball end of a ball peen hammer on the bearing cap, and then strike the flat end of the ball peen hammer with the sledge hammer. This generates a forceful blow that should be effective. Heat helps. Also, keep your new joints in the freezer until you're ready to install them.

This thread might be helpful...

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/replacing-non-replaceable-u-joints-517657/

micah

I have a 12ton shop press in my garage, but I still hammer them out. I haven't bent one yet and I've done a couple. but, I always put it in a wood vise, and support the side of the yoke I'm beating on... Never hammering against the other fork...

MaxJenius211

So I am not hearing No on drilling them out.

Is it possible that I have not ground out the stakes enough.
He is a picture.

Thanks
Max

buttsjim

It looks to me like most of the staking is ground out well enough. I doubt that would be your problem, though, as I was once told by the guy at Rockford that some people don't bother to grind off the staking--they just press the joints right past it.

scrip7

iTrader: (6)

Exactly what I did. It takes more force with a hammer to get past the stakes, and the N/A driveshaft yokes are pretty soft to begin with, hence the need for a press.

bschnard

iTrader: (4)

In the past I have used a big vise instead of a press to get U-Joints out. It may take a helper bar on the vise handle if the joint is being really tough but it is the same principle as the press and a lot less $'s. Big socket on one side to receive the cap, smaller socket on the other side to press against.

MaxJenius211

Now thats the most affordable idea I've heard all day!

I'll share with you the idea someone else presented to me. It's a little scary.

place hydrolic jack under the car, place large socket on jack, driveshaft on socket, 9/16 socket on top of driveshaft bearing cap. Raise jack to make contact with car frame, hopefully presses bearing cap down and out.

-Max

MaxJenius211

Well the vice didn't do it. I tried so hard I couldn't imagine it was capable of being removed. But i found a guy I know with a 12 ton press and dang if that didn't work like a charm. I am going to go out on a limb and say that this tool is a MUST for this project.

-Max

MaxJenius211

Update: Failure...
I got everything apart and the replacement u-joints (Rockford is good stuff, instructions leave much to be desired). I used a grinding attachment on my dremel to even the surface...apparently not well enough. In the process of pressing the 2nd bearing cap into the yoke it caught and siezed, could not remove it and tried to press it through but it bent the yoke. That means its over. I give this project a difficulty level of 7 out of ten because 5 is my ability and it required equipment like a hydrolic press. On to plan B. Step one: Swearing, Step Two: ???, Step Three: Driveshaft.

-Max

micah

That sucks man, sorry it didn't work for you.