ok, i have spark, air, compression, fuel. tried for like an hour plus with funkspectrum to start but no go. we even got karack on the phone for some tech advice. wtf? we tried adjusting the c.a.s. and the rythm of the motor turning over would change but it just won't fire. anyone got any pointers or ideas on things i should check or try?

 

I'm hoping that the afm isn't fubared. We kept hearing the flapper door banging against the housing...

As herrafass said, there's spark, fuel and compression. I stabbed the CAS three or four times and de-flooded the engine for good measure. I dunno what else it could be. Maybe the fact that rebuilds using old housings have low compression from the start?

I've been racking my brain over this all night and I can't come up with a solid solution.

 

I've got the same problem. We pull started mine and it ran for 2 hours. The next day it wouldn't start again. What's the afm?

 

yeah, tow that bitch till it fires! I had to do that a few times, let it fen for a few hours, then it would start on its own

 

anybody else have any ideas? i was thinking of bumpstarting it....but I dunno...

 

have you guys tried takeing out the egi fuse, have him turn it over with the gas pedal all the way pushed in then have someone put in the egi fuse. thats what i have to do sometimes on my new rebuild. by the way you are putting jumpers on it right and primeing the oil system right?

 

yes, we pulled the egi and did that whole bit, yes we primed the oil system, and yes we are hooking it up via cables to my brothers truck so juice isn't an issue. the bump starting thing may work but i'm a bit skeptical about that. it's a lot of work to pull it out of the garage and down the street if it doesn't work. i would think that it should start on it's own, but then again this is my first seven.

 

try pulling the leading plugs out again and put about a tablespoon of 2stroke oil in each rotor housing, hopefully this should build compression enough to help get it started.

if that doesn't work, if you can, check the fuel pressure.

 

any progress today?

another thing i just thought of is the exhaust, make sure it is not blocked somehow and if the catalytic converter is plugged up it can restrict the flow enough to cause a fresh rebuild not to start. try pulling off the exhaust at the midpipe and see if it will start up with the exhaust unrestricted, assuming the precat is ok. it will be LOUD though if it does start but that would be a step in the right direction.

 

I had this problem with my transplant car. I put in my street motor and it wouldn't start - however, if I manually poured gas down the throttle body, it would run until it ran outta gas.

long story short, it was the radio interference capacitor mounted to the fender under the trailing ignitor pack. this 6 dollar part is a 1" black square with a single connector and is connected to the +12vdc of the injector circuit. (it's in the wiring diagram) in my case, it was bad and shorted my injector's to ground ONLY when they started to pulse. with the key in run and the motor not cranking, you'll get good voltage to the injectors.

this sucked troubleshooting-wise cause I never thought to check for power while cranking! I figured it out because I got desperate and started swapping out ignitors from my donor until I saw the capacitor. (my background is in electronics and I know what happens when RF filters go bad)

solution? unplug the connector and try starting. vroom! good luck ~rich

 

..............................................wait , oh what were you guys saying?? i was distracted by herrafass's pic............................................... .....................................damn
lol

 

where are you sitting compression wise?
are the injectors leaking?

 

it is a fresh rebuild, sounds like it is getting fuel but the plugs aren't soaking wet which makes me wonder what is happening, sounds like the ignition timing is off but it could likely be an exhaust restriction issue but that is just a guess without the car in front of me.

shouldn't be a compression issue, the rotor housings were in great shape and listening to it over the phone with the plugs out it sounds like it is producing very good compression for a rebuild that hasn't been started yet.

double check the AFM is plugged in, i know you said it is clicking but double check it is plugged in snug. double check all the vacuum lines and most importantly make sure the brake booster line is hooked up, major vacuum leaks will cause the fuel pump to trigger on and off while cranking causing a lean cranking condition so the car may never start until it is getting enough fuel.

some ideas to check up on.

 

thanks everyone, i'll check all those things out monday, got the day off and i plan to spend the whole day trying to staighten this out. if it works i'll let you know and more suggestions are welcome as i'll be checking this post at least once more before mondays session.

 

fuel to the rails, new fuel filter, new tps as the old one was sticking, still won't start w/o starting fluid, still won't idle, gotta keep my foot on the pedal. vac lines all look good, found a coolant line that is gonna need to be replaced soon but is fine for now.
where its the factory setting for the screw on top of the throttle body? right now it's about 3/4 turn out from the bottom. also, i did a search for setting the tps, but all i found was a gazillion threads asking the same question and they are all answered with "search", kinda redundant, but then again i'm far from a computer wizard. i found a few links but they were dead ends. any help would be much appreciated. thanks

 

the little brass one on top of the throttle body?

 

in the FAQ thread there is a few links to the factory service manual, it is an invaluable tool in getting all of the settings properly done as well as testing sensors and making adjustments. it would take me days to go over everything so i would probably just start with it and printing out a few pages for setting the TPS and idle and maybe testing sensor resistance values as well as the sensor wiring diagrams.

if you haven't driven the car yet try just taking it out for a drive while sidestepping the throttle and brake to keep the engine running, a lot of mysterious issues disappear after the first initial drive after initial startup.

 

Just a possibility: Make sure your water thermo sensor on the back of the water pump housing is connected. AS you can see in the attached chart, the START fuel map depends on the water themperature as far as the amount of gas injected during START. If the sensor is disabled, the fuel amount is toooooo small to keep a low compression engine running UNTIL the engine temperature gets up.

And about your cas. PUll it out and align it like the manual says, with the fixed and moving mark at the bottom aligned. NOW look in the top of the cas. When you get thru installing the cas, the top should look exactly as it is now with the marks aligned on the bottom. Then leave it alone after installation.