Guys,

I'm worried that this thread might mislead some people that are inexperienced with RX7s. We need to point out that the plug wires were not connected correctly according to the above posts. It's easy to remember. 1 and 2 for front and rear rotor, L and T for lower and top (actually leading and trailing but it's the same). Just don't want to mislead anyone that finds this in the archive.

Todd

PS. I confirmed this in the Factory Service Manual and a known good running '87 TII.

 

Yes, that is the correct placement for the plug wires...I think the incorrect reference in this thread was just a typo. 1 means front rotor, 2 means rear rotor. T means Trailing (or Top). L means Leading (or Lower).

And though this plug wire information will hold eternally true for all the worlds' RX-7's, the merits of the intercooled Mohit-vocalcharger with direct port ether injection remain shrouded in mystery and doubt.
:1party:

 

It was understood in Josh Q's first post that the wires were on right. Whether he calls the front coil assy* Lead* or calls it *Budda* and the rear set of coils not *Trail* but *Pest*, he still put the wires from the front coil assy on the lower plugs and the rear coil assy wires on the top plugs

 

Hailers....you are correct. Also, thanks for all your help so far with Josh's car!! We really do apperciate it! :1party:

 

"The wires are installed correctly the front coil t1 and t2 on bottom then the back coils l1 and l2 on the top."

Hailers...i'm not sure how you read this as "correct". That quote is from the first post. It clearly says T1 and T2 are on the bottom and vice - versa. I merely pointed this out so that guys new to the RX would not be confused. The front coil may be L1 and L2 but the post suggests otherwise. I'm sure he knew what he meant and that it was correct. However....IMHO we shouldn't assume everyone would know what he meant. I just thought someone who didn't know better might be confused.

 

If you car is low on compression the starter may not spin the engine fast enough for it to start. Try pushing the car or towing at a moderate speed and use third gear. If it is going to start at all this will do it.

Back when I first got my rex and before I understood what was happening this is how I had to get it started. The rear rotor was low on compression and the engine finally blew up about five thousand miles later. It had a total of 124 K miles at the time. Upon dissassembly the seals were found to be stuck in their respective grooves and were almost welded in by the carbon. It was obviously a long time ago that the seals were able to float as the design calls for. I am surprised the engine ran as well as it did.

All of this is assuming the e-shaft angle sensor has not been removed and installed incorrectly. Another question you might ask yourself is what happened in the first place to cause you trouble. Did you mess with the timing before or after the engine failed to start? Go back to the beginning and work from there.

 

Well I read it as correct because he talked about the fwd coil assy going to the bottom plugs and the rear coils assy going to the top plugs. Now he knows ,and I know, and you know that the lead coil assy is up front and the trail assy is aft, and if he connected the plugs from the fwd coil assy to the bottom plugs I could care less if he called the assy TOPSY and the rear coils assy TURVY, the bottom line is the connected them where they should go. He acknowledged that he had a typo when he wrote the post. That was good enough for me. A rose by any other name, is still a rose. Bobby Burns I think, but coulda been Gertrude Stein.

 

the original problem with this car is I bought it. When I bought it it had not had an inspection sticker since 98. so I must assume that it was sometime in that year that it went sour. I now have a motor coming soon and want to get a little more hp out of it. Streetable hp. Check some of the other tthreads i started asking alot of questions on headers and pulleys and accessories.
Thank you for the help with this car

 

ahh 89+ come with anti flooding switch. Hold the gas down and let it unflood. You sure the battery has enough juice to crank it over. Also this is how the spark plugs are suppose to go looking from the driver side fender

T1 T2
L1 L2

If you are not sure where L1 coils are. Go look at the # they have on there. ti says

 

this one didn't come with a switch. It still floods like crazy. we have the coils on right, we are putting in a new motor. I will let everyone on the forum Know how it goes.