2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.
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Old 03-17-09, 02:42 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by HAILERS
I read the part where you say it starts if starter fluid is used. So it's a fuel delivery problem.

So since it's a non turbo, jumper the yellow two socket fuel pump check connector. Key to ON. The pump should be heard running continuosly. Good.

Now remove the jumper wire from the connector and remove the Return Line on the left side of the engine. It's the one that does not come from the fuel filter (filter is below the brake booster area).

Now with the key ON, go jumper that yellow two socket fuel pump check connector momentarily. Fuel should flow out the return hard line. IF not, leave the jumper in a bit longer and see if it flows not. Not flowing??? Leave the jumper in for ten or fifteen seconds. No fuel? Lines are plumbed wrong or clogged or?????
a little hard to understand but i have to make sure that my line are clean? and i have to jump the fuel pump with the with a battery. and what is this yellow two socket connector that you're talking about? is it located underneath the steering column?
Old 03-17-09, 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by SirCygnus
dont use any thing besides regular motor oil. you use ATF or MMO when you know the engine is trash and want to get it runing on its last legs of its life.



do what hailers suggested, then if everything works,

yank the injectors out and sent them off to witchhunter performance.

if that still doesnt work, get a NA fuel pump. ill give you my working s5 NA unit for free. just pay shipping.
okay let me get that please. and imma try what hailers said later today too. ill let you know what happns
Old 03-17-09, 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by incubuseva
Not apex, coolant. It just doesn't sound like a good idea to me. All other engines you use just plain old oil to raise compression in cases like that. I wouldn't want to put anything else in there that isn't supposed to be in there.
well i didn't do the ATF method but this is my try with the fuel system. how can i clean the lines out?With a compressor and air hose or do i need new ones?
Old 03-17-09, 09:13 PM
  #29  
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Aaroncake's atf page.
Old 03-17-09, 09:34 PM
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Look at the jpg attached.

See the yellow elect plug circled in purple?

That plug is the fuel pump check connector. IF the key is ON, and you get a piece of wire bare at each end, and put one end in one of the sockets and the other end of the wire in the other socket, the fuel pump should run all the time.

So do that. Then after you confirm you can hear the pump running, turn the key OFF and pull the jumper wire out.

Then pull the return fuel line off the engine.(see second jpg). Now turn the key to ON, and jumper that yellow connector once more. Fuel should pour out the hard line where the fuel return line was pulled off.

Does that happen?

The only reason your doing this is to see if the fuel lines/rails/PD/FPR are plumbed right on the engine. IF this is a USA engine, then the fuel should pour out when the jumper is installed. IF this is a JSPEC engine..........let it be known that the return and pressure lines in the dwg are just opposite of what is shown.

A JSPEC engine is one imported from a japanese wrecking crew in Japan. It's configured a little different than the USA configuration.
Attached Thumbnails Need help!!! Searched for hours!-fuel-pump-check-connector-3.jpg   Need help!!! Searched for hours!-hardlines.jpg  
Old 03-17-09, 11:30 PM
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yeah i'm gonna do that tomorrow first thing but how do i u clog it if its clogged
Old 03-18-09, 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by HAILERS
Look at the jpg attached.

See the yellow elect plug circled in purple?

That plug is the fuel pump check connector. IF the key is ON, and you get a piece of wire bare at each end, and put one end in one of the sockets and the other end of the wire in the other socket, the fuel pump should run all the time.

So do that. Then after you confirm you can hear the pump running, turn the key OFF and pull the jumper wire out.

Then pull the return fuel line off the engine.(see second jpg). Now turn the key to ON, and jumper that yellow connector once more. Fuel should pour out the hard line where the fuel return line was pulled off.

Does that happen?

The only reason your doing this is to see if the fuel lines/rails/PD/FPR are plumbed right on the engine. IF this is a USA engine, then the fuel should pour out when the jumper is installed. IF this is a JSPEC engine..........let it be known that the return and pressure lines in the dwg are just opposite of what is shown.

A JSPEC engine is one imported from a japanese wrecking crew in Japan. It's configured a little different than the USA configuration.
yeah but even if they are clogged how would i be able to clean the fuel line itself?
Old 03-18-09, 01:02 PM
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whats going on?

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Originally Posted by Gregory Casimir
yeah i'm gonna do that tomorrow first thing but how do i u clog it if its clogged

be positive. it shouldnt be clogged.

its usally pump, filter, or fuel injectors that are gumed up.


id yank the fuel injectors and get those cleaned and checked ASAP. that way, you know the EXACT condition that they are in.
Old 03-18-09, 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by SirCygnus
be positive. it shouldnt be clogged.

its usally pump, filter, or fuel injectors that are gumed up.


id yank the fuel injectors and get those cleaned and checked ASAP. that way, you know the EXACT condition that they are in.
but i have all that changed and cleaned out. Just not the fuel line that runs underneath the car. that isn't cleaned out. but what i want to know is what is the best way to clean it out cause i just did what hailers told me to do and there is no fuel being returned a all?
Old 03-18-09, 09:40 PM
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Talking fuel delivery

By the way, do you have the supply and return hoses attached to the correct lines on the rats nest? makes a big difference in my experience.

I've added a fuel cut switch to my S5 NA even though pushing the pedal to the floor supposedly cuts the fuel pump. There's nothing like being able to flick the pump on and off until the right mixture makes it take off.

good luck
Old 03-19-09, 10:57 AM
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^^^ i'll look into doing that
Old 03-23-09, 08:53 PM
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THANK YOU ALL SO MUCH FOR YOUR INPUT!!!!!! I finally got her running and it almost brought a tear to my eye. but its just the beginning and i still think i have a vacuum leak cause its idling awkward and my coolant buzzer is constantly on (im gonna change the thermostat and put coolant) but i gotta get her cleaned out right before anything else is done. AGAIN THANK YOU ALL BUT I GOT A LONG WAY TO GO!!
Old 03-23-09, 10:34 PM
  #38  
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Make sure the sensor on the radiator is plugged in. If you have coolant in the system.
Old 03-23-09, 11:22 PM
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and most of all thank you rog!
Old 03-25-09, 11:38 AM
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okay new problems arise (i knew they where coming)

1st.)My power steering i believe blew when i was trying to put some new fluid in there. Didn't know it was clogged. is there a proper way to clean it out? I'm on a search for a new hose.

2nd.) car won't idle properly. It bounces from 1000rpms to 1500rpms after it starts up and finishes surging to a high rpm (although it did idle at 900rpm for 5 secs then started the same crap again). What i want to know is what can i search or check for that could fix this. i know vacuum leaks could be the culprit but i highly doubt because i took my time putting the UIM and LIM on with new gaskets. also on of the emissions hose broke. could this be the problem?
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