DallasFC1

iTrader: (2)

It is entirely possible that I did not search the correct keywords... Here is my problem...
88 S4 vert
Symptoms:
Starts and runs for 15-30 seconds and dies... (badly adjusted tps/idle air mix screw suspected...)
Smokes like I am having a 60ft tall bonfire... (smoke is thick and white) I know for sure that the exhaust is completely toast, rusted to high heaven and falling apart / gutted... (have spare exhaust from my 86 N/a so going to swap those out...

Possibly running too rich? When I got the car it had just come back from the "Mechanic" who took an entire MONTH to replace primary injectors because he had never worked on this type of engine before (OMFG?!) Anyway, the previous owner was moving the car around the driveway when he heard a loud POP and all the oil came out of the engine... He shut the car down and parked it, I towed it home. The POP and oil running out of the engine was diagnosed as "Blown Motor", however once I got it home and got under it the problem was a shoddy patch job on oil cooler line which had burst, so I replaced that. Now the guy I got the car from really did care about the car so he did not run the car after the oil fell out of the engine so i don't have any reason to suspect he blew the motor or there was any real damage to the engine... I will be doing compression testing today and will update this post, other than that can anyone make sure I am not missing anything ?? Suggestions / personal experiences with this situation is helpful! Thanks in advance guys / girls!

DallasFC1
R & D Dexell Composites
Keller Tx, 76248
Dexell_Composites@yahoo.com (for my blackberry...)

Marshessn

iTrader: (-1)

does the smoke smell sweet?
in that case, the white smoke would denote that it is coolant.

mazdaracer78

burp/fill coolant system properly and after some driving keep track of your level.

if it appears to be using coolant, you can always have a radiator shop do a pressure test. most of the time, the inner seal fails near the plugs and pressurizes the system.

good luck.

DallasFC1

iTrader: (2)

Not a sweet smell.. good old fashion burnt oil / gas smell.
I will keep ya informed!

mazdaracer78

sounds like excess fuel + worn out control rings...

good luck with it and if anyone gives you a hard time... tell them your trying to keep the mosquito population down... lol

DallasFC1

iTrader: (2)

OK, UPDATE:
Ugh, I wore the battery completely down trying to solve this issue. I am fairly certain the TPS / Idle Air is out of spec.

So here is my question...
How exactly is one supposed to adjust the TPS if I cant get the car to run long enough to warm up??? Same procedure and then just get it running kinda sorta so I can warm it up and perform the TPS adjustment correctly? (I have a light tool the 2 led tool) a jumper wire for Initial Set and a Multimeter, and a Screwdriver... Not to make this too simple but I have everything I need right???

(Yes this is my first rotary engine to toy with.) No, I am not new to working on cars, been working on them for years. The best comparison I can make to this procedure is like trying to tune a 1974 Lotus Eurpoa S4 with multiple carbs... Back and forth back and forth...

Any advice, tips, or warnings before I try this. Please post.
Thank you!
DallasFC1

vrracing

iTrader: (1)

The FSM has what you need. There are links to it in the FAQ but here is a direct link to the Fuel System chapter. The TPS adjustment instructions are on page 4A-50.

You might also search for posts by HAILERS for the string TPS. He often outlines the voltage reading at the ECU method which I found a lot more accurate and repeatable than the LED method. Takes a friend though. I'd also spray some lube on the linkage so nothing is binding.