In about 6 months I am going to buy myself a car. I really want a second gen RX-7 but I hear that maintanence on these cars are a bitch. Is it something that will be bad for me? I'm really into fixing cars and **** like that but sometimes things break so often it's annoying. Is this car like that?

I am debating over this and a Honda Civic Hatch. (Don't hate on Civic's because there's a lotta riceboy's out there)

Also, if I do get one, what model? I want the Turbo 2 but if I can't find one which is best performance wise?

Also what estimates for insurance would you give me? 16 year old B student.

Thanks in advance.

 

Hey man Im 16 just bought my rx-7 I did get a great deal on it 21,000 miles perfect cond. for $5200 I was lucky but if you can find one like that get it. About the Civics I was actually going to get a 99 EBP Si and know alot about them but I chose this and Im not into rice dont worry man lol. MY insurance is $2000 a year in NJ with full coverage. I am turning 17 on sunday and just on my permit i put 800 miles on it lol.

Instant message me on aol if you can= Flyby116

Good luck man

 

RX-7's are good cars as long as the motor is good. If it is then the rest of the car wont give you many problems. It cant be compared to the civic, especially not the TII.

Its a sports car.

I got my NA when i was 16 and i havent had any major breakdowns yet (over a year). Only the wiper switch went, thats it.

Buy it, nothing but fun!

 

like any car, it depends on the mods you do and how you drive and maintain it. You have to remember that any older car you buy, you are taking a risk. My TII requires a lot of tlc=money. That is the price that I pay to drive a fast *** car To me it is worth it. I used to drive a turbo charged CRX, but I am much happier with my TII. It costs me an arm and a leg though. Luckaly I am older and insurance isn't that bad. When I was 16-18 there is no way they would have insured me. I would say go for it, but be careful wich one you pick.

 

i have a rx7 second gen and its fine
just remember they r old cars and dont be surprized to spend almost a grand on repairs in the first couple months or so

buy the rx7 try to get a n/a cause its low maintanence im now 17

 

The maintenance is not that bad. Just remember for the TII change the oil every 2500, get the 30 & 60K services done ontime, and if you have mods change the spark plugs every 15-20K miles.

Synthetic in the rear diff. & transmission will also help.

The cars can be rock solid. It's all about how you mod it that can promote or decrease engine life. Also keep in mind this is a production race car designed to take constant high revving and fast 0-60 starts. The TII model's drivetrain can handle 450HP STOCK.

After seeing the pics below, imagine perfect 50/50/50/50 balance, taking curves at 70MPH that are normally 35MPH, extreemly accurate steering, lighting quick acceleration, etc...

And you have lots of modesl to choose from. The SE & GXL (luxury) are cheap easy to buy rx-7s. They're great fun, can be modded in the future for more HP. The GTU, GTU-S, and sport models are the best price/performce mix. Great for autocrossing. The convertible is one SWEEETTTT ride and has performance potential. The turbo II is a producation race/supercar. The performance headroom is nearly unlimited AND there's a 3 rotor engine out there for even more drag potential.

The 7s are some of the cheapest supercars ever built and make a great 1st car. The GTU, GXL, and SE models are pretty cheap for insurance.

Here's a few pics on why were so obsessed:

 

 

 

before you buy one...COMPRESSION TEST, COMPRESSION TEST, COMPRESSION TEST....

 

vaughn: that pic u posted, of the 7 thats still all white & looks to be preppin for paint...know of any places to get that front end besides rxecret7.com. Its $1600 there. I mean thats alot for only the front end. Thanks.

Chris

 

Here's the thread it came from:

https://www.rx7club.com/vforums/show...threadid=19011

 

Anyone have any info on the spoiler on the black rx7 that is facing the left and is a side view(above red car with mariah kit). Thanks

 

thanks for the info vaughnc, I'm saving up to buy an rx-7 2nd gen, I've already decided thats the car i want, (unfortunately winters are long and harsh here in Canada, so I'll need another car on top of the rx7) but that's helpfull info, I'll be sure to do that when i get my rx7, (might wait till next summer to do so, seeing as how winter is in about 1 month anyway), and also, as you can tell im a huge newbie to cars, whats a compression test?

 

Flavour (aka SSj4Bardock21 ??),

Basically a compression test lets you know how the APEX engine seals are doing. With a rotary engine, the seals inbetween the rotary housings break down over time. It doesn't affect power, but if the seals completely go then the rotor won't turn because there's 0 compression available.

Most people buy a turbo II / convertible / GTU with a low mileage/ newer motor for a slight premium or a VERY cheap one with a blown motor.

Either way they should cost about the same. If your lucky, you'll find a turbo II / convertible / GTU for cheap with a motor that has high compression. If you do, that's a very good deal

As a rule of thumb, here's generally when the various 2nd generation rx-7s need an engine rebuilt (new apex seals). While the final say is the compresion test, these numbers are a good way of telling if the car your looking at is overpriced. Of course finding one with a new engine adds another 180-300K miles of engine life

1986-1988
SE, GXL, convertible - 220-300K miles
GTU, GTUs, Sport - 180-220K miles
Turbo II 160-230K miles

1989-1992
GXL - 180-250K miles
GTU, GTUs - 180-210K miles
Turbo II - 130-150K miles

 

more usefull info, thanks, and no, im just regular old flavour, always have been, thanks for your help though, i was reading up on it and figured the apex seals are the problem, and i checked up with a friend who works in a garage, and says when rebuilding the 13B rotary he replaces the apex seals, front, back, side, and corner seals, replaces the springs, oil control rings, gasket and the O-rings (whatever that is), do you think an amatuer like myself could fix a dead engine like that? cuz theres an awsome '89 rx-7 for sale where i live for $3,500 CND but it has 185,000kms on it, the engine's most likely ceased, and i dont have the money to pay for the fixins, i have like $400 CND on top of the $$ for the car...
heres the car:

 

Don't have my currency calculator with me, so I'm assuming that's like $500-$1500 US ?? That's the max I would pay for it.

Rotaries are easy to work on yes, but I'd hope you have another car and/or pervious engine experience so you can take your time.

I looked for 14 months to find my TII - so spending a few weeks looking around before you said yes to that one might be a good idea.

By seazed do you mean it's flooded and you just need to remove the fuel pump fuse (aka fuel cut) and it will start?

 

I had my 10th AE as my first car and don't regret it. The only problem is gas mileage, but I've always liked cars and I wanted a fun one as my first car.

 

by ceased, i meant that because the engine has so many kms it probably doesnt work anymore because its worn out, and btw: I've got my T-Bird to drive for now, and thats what i will drive in the winter

 

AE Turbo I like what you did with the sig