Need Help lowering Under hood temps.
06-05-14, 09:55 AM
#1
Need Help lowering Under hood temps.
I have been driving the FC around more offen, and I am running into the old issue of the car getting hot. I have a Nissian E-fan to install, which I know will help. However I was undering if any you guys have found a way to get the car to run a little cooler, making the 80+ days less scary. I have a Corksport Rad, so that should help. I have a welder that I know how to use at a hobbyist level and a steel hood that already has a big hole cut into, so a few more wouldn't hurt it. it was free. So if you guys could tell me where you added vents that would be helpful.
06-05-14, 11:13 AM
#7
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06-05-14, 11:15 AM
#8
^This.
If you're concerned about temps, the first thing is to find out exactly what temps you're running.
The you maximize your ducting in the nose, capture and direct all the air possible to the intercooler/radiator.
If you think your stock thermoclutch is good, keep the stock fan for now...no point in introducing a variable at this point.
The OEM fan is quite effective if stupid/clunky, and it should keep your engine cool.
Only then do you start carving holes in the hood.
Positioning of any vents would have to be carefully considered because it's just as likely you'd increase pressure behind the rad as lessen it.
I am also assuming you've taken care of the rest of the cooling system and know that the thermostat, waterpump and rad cap are all good.
If you're concerned about temps, the first thing is to find out exactly what temps you're running.
The you maximize your ducting in the nose, capture and direct all the air possible to the intercooler/radiator.
If you think your stock thermoclutch is good, keep the stock fan for now...no point in introducing a variable at this point.
The OEM fan is quite effective if stupid/clunky, and it should keep your engine cool.
Only then do you start carving holes in the hood.
Positioning of any vents would have to be carefully considered because it's just as likely you'd increase pressure behind the rad as lessen it.
I am also assuming you've taken care of the rest of the cooling system and know that the thermostat, waterpump and rad cap are all good.
06-05-14, 11:20 AM
#9
I can't use the stock fan since the stock shourd doesnt fit with the corksport rad. I know I should add some sheet metal to prevent air from going up over the rad.
The big problem is I think the temps are going to cause my IC piping to get heat soak. They where hot this morning after I got to work
The big problem is I think the temps are going to cause my IC piping to get heat soak. They where hot this morning after I got to work
06-05-14, 01:03 PM
#11
A bigger intercooler can help with Air intake temps which is another thing to watch out for.
As for Coolant side,
Be VERY careful when picking a E-fan. Most can't pull enough air to keep a rotary cool.
I personally only go with Taurus e-fans. Which require a 40amp fuse for high speed. So a 40+ amp relay is needed as well. Low speed can work with a 30 amp fuse and relay no problem.
Here's my setup:
Sexy Style vent hood
Stock undertray & A top radiator panel
Koyo Radiator
Taurus efan
FD alt
Dual Alt pulley
I prefer to keep my car as close to thermostat opening temps as possible(180). I stop racing and go for a cool down lap when I hit 210. FD's run at 210 which is scary as hell to me and is also why people change the efan turn on temps to lower when they get PFC's on their FD's.
My current setup(high speed setting) leaves me with 190 degree temps driving on the highway in 100+ degree weather here in AZ. After a few laps on the track I'll spike up to 210 but I think my Alt belts need to be replaced(slipping). In the winter I go to low speed and barely hit 180 degrees. Usually 200-210 after a lot of laps on track.
The Vent hood drops my temps. I put my TII hood back on and it actually picked up 10 degrees. so It's a 10 degree drop with it on.
Don't lift the rear of the hood up. That is a HIGH pressure zone. This will force air INTO the engine bay, not extract it. There are slight benefit from "washing" the engine bay of hot air, but your radiator can suffer from this.
The radiator needs a high pressure zone up front and lesser pressure behind it(engine bay) to work. Adding pressure to the bay will fight the air movement through the radiator.
This is where ducting comes into play.
The undertray and a top radiator panel helps keep the front air damn a high pressure area while keeping the rear a low pressure area. This then forces the air through the radiator instead of escaping around or under/over it.
One final thing it to check the radiator itself. If it's old, it may be clogged up. I had Koyo that was about 5 years old and I would be running 200 degrees. I bought a new one and it dropped to 180 the same day.
As for Coolant side,
Be VERY careful when picking a E-fan. Most can't pull enough air to keep a rotary cool.
I personally only go with Taurus e-fans. Which require a 40amp fuse for high speed. So a 40+ amp relay is needed as well. Low speed can work with a 30 amp fuse and relay no problem.
Here's my setup:
Sexy Style vent hood
Stock undertray & A top radiator panel
Koyo Radiator
Taurus efan
FD alt
Dual Alt pulley
I prefer to keep my car as close to thermostat opening temps as possible(180). I stop racing and go for a cool down lap when I hit 210. FD's run at 210 which is scary as hell to me and is also why people change the efan turn on temps to lower when they get PFC's on their FD's.
My current setup(high speed setting) leaves me with 190 degree temps driving on the highway in 100+ degree weather here in AZ. After a few laps on the track I'll spike up to 210 but I think my Alt belts need to be replaced(slipping). In the winter I go to low speed and barely hit 180 degrees. Usually 200-210 after a lot of laps on track.
The Vent hood drops my temps. I put my TII hood back on and it actually picked up 10 degrees. so It's a 10 degree drop with it on.
Don't lift the rear of the hood up. That is a HIGH pressure zone. This will force air INTO the engine bay, not extract it. There are slight benefit from "washing" the engine bay of hot air, but your radiator can suffer from this.
The radiator needs a high pressure zone up front and lesser pressure behind it(engine bay) to work. Adding pressure to the bay will fight the air movement through the radiator.
This is where ducting comes into play.
The undertray and a top radiator panel helps keep the front air damn a high pressure area while keeping the rear a low pressure area. This then forces the air through the radiator instead of escaping around or under/over it.
One final thing it to check the radiator itself. If it's old, it may be clogged up. I had Koyo that was about 5 years old and I would be running 200 degrees. I bought a new one and it dropped to 180 the same day.
06-08-14, 03:17 PM
#14
Senior Member
If you were running the stock fan with NO shroud since it wouldn't fit, that was the issue. Fans have shrouds for a reason. I cant tell you how many people I've had to explain that to. With no shroud the fan just sucks air from where ever it wants. With a shroud the fan is forced to suck air through the radiator and past the fan, the shroud then acts like a funnel through the fan. It also forces the air to travel through the radiator and out the back of it like a funnel. I would have to dig up the large write up again from off a honda forum that would go in depth on why a shroud is necessary.
06-08-14, 03:24 PM
#15
^This.
If you're concerned about temps, the first thing is to find out exactly what temps you're running.
The you maximize your ducting in the nose, capture and direct all the air possible to the intercooler/radiator.
If you think your stock thermoclutch is good, keep the stock fan for now...no point in introducing a variable at this point.
The OEM fan is quite effective if stupid/clunky, and it should keep your engine cool.
Only then do you start carving holes in the hood.
Positioning of any vents would have to be carefully considered because it's just as likely you'd increase pressure behind the rad as lessen it.
I am also assuming you've taken care of the rest of the cooling system and know that the thermostat, waterpump and rad cap are all good.
If you're concerned about temps, the first thing is to find out exactly what temps you're running.
The you maximize your ducting in the nose, capture and direct all the air possible to the intercooler/radiator.
If you think your stock thermoclutch is good, keep the stock fan for now...no point in introducing a variable at this point.
The OEM fan is quite effective if stupid/clunky, and it should keep your engine cool.
Only then do you start carving holes in the hood.
Positioning of any vents would have to be carefully considered because it's just as likely you'd increase pressure behind the rad as lessen it.
I am also assuming you've taken care of the rest of the cooling system and know that the thermostat, waterpump and rad cap are all good.
I can't use the stock fan since the stock shourd doesnt fit with the corksport rad. I know I should add some sheet metal to prevent air from going up over the rad.
The big problem is I think the temps are going to cause my IC piping to get heat soak. They where hot this morning after I got to work
The big problem is I think the temps are going to cause my IC piping to get heat soak. They where hot this morning after I got to work
A bigger intercooler can help with Air intake temps which is another thing to watch out for.
As for Coolant side,
Be VERY careful when picking a E-fan. Most can't pull enough air to keep a rotary cool.
I personally only go with Taurus e-fans. Which require a 40amp fuse for high speed. So a 40+ amp relay is needed as well. Low speed can work with a 30 amp fuse and relay no problem.
Here's my setup:
Sexy Style vent hood
Stock undertray & A top radiator panel
Koyo Radiator
Taurus efan
FD alt
Dual Alt pulley
I prefer to keep my car as close to thermostat opening temps as possible(180). I stop racing and go for a cool down lap when I hit 210. FD's run at 210 which is scary as hell to me and is also why people change the efan turn on temps to lower when they get PFC's on their FD's.
My current setup(high speed setting) leaves me with 190 degree temps driving on the highway in 100+ degree weather here in AZ. After a few laps on the track I'll spike up to 210 but I think my Alt belts need to be replaced(slipping). In the winter I go to low speed and barely hit 180 degrees. Usually 200-210 after a lot of laps on track.
The Vent hood drops my temps. I put my TII hood back on and it actually picked up 10 degrees. so It's a 10 degree drop with it on.
Don't lift the rear of the hood up. That is a HIGH pressure zone. This will force air INTO the engine bay, not extract it. There are slight benefit from "washing" the engine bay of hot air, but your radiator can suffer from this.
The radiator needs a high pressure zone up front and lesser pressure behind it(engine bay) to work. Adding pressure to the bay will fight the air movement through the radiator.
This is where ducting comes into play.
The undertray and a top radiator panel helps keep the front air damn a high pressure area while keeping the rear a low pressure area. This then forces the air through the radiator instead of escaping around or under/over it.
One final thing it to check the radiator itself. If it's old, it may be clogged up. I had Koyo that was about 5 years old and I would be running 200 degrees. I bought a new one and it dropped to 180 the same day.
As for Coolant side,
Be VERY careful when picking a E-fan. Most can't pull enough air to keep a rotary cool.
I personally only go with Taurus e-fans. Which require a 40amp fuse for high speed. So a 40+ amp relay is needed as well. Low speed can work with a 30 amp fuse and relay no problem.
Here's my setup:
Sexy Style vent hood
Stock undertray & A top radiator panel
Koyo Radiator
Taurus efan
FD alt
Dual Alt pulley
I prefer to keep my car as close to thermostat opening temps as possible(180). I stop racing and go for a cool down lap when I hit 210. FD's run at 210 which is scary as hell to me and is also why people change the efan turn on temps to lower when they get PFC's on their FD's.
My current setup(high speed setting) leaves me with 190 degree temps driving on the highway in 100+ degree weather here in AZ. After a few laps on the track I'll spike up to 210 but I think my Alt belts need to be replaced(slipping). In the winter I go to low speed and barely hit 180 degrees. Usually 200-210 after a lot of laps on track.
The Vent hood drops my temps. I put my TII hood back on and it actually picked up 10 degrees. so It's a 10 degree drop with it on.
Don't lift the rear of the hood up. That is a HIGH pressure zone. This will force air INTO the engine bay, not extract it. There are slight benefit from "washing" the engine bay of hot air, but your radiator can suffer from this.
The radiator needs a high pressure zone up front and lesser pressure behind it(engine bay) to work. Adding pressure to the bay will fight the air movement through the radiator.
This is where ducting comes into play.
The undertray and a top radiator panel helps keep the front air damn a high pressure area while keeping the rear a low pressure area. This then forces the air through the radiator instead of escaping around or under/over it.
One final thing it to check the radiator itself. If it's old, it may be clogged up. I had Koyo that was about 5 years old and I would be running 200 degrees. I bought a new one and it dropped to 180 the same day.
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