OK, so long story short, the BNR3 Turbo does not have the little vac. tree or whatever you want to call it, on it, so HOW do i hook up my aftermarket boost guage and my profecB specII to it?...

it has one nipple where the other had a few....

idea's?, help!...

 

there should be a nipple tapped into the comp housing, and a nipple on the actuator. Theres 1 vac hose that connects the two nipples for stock boost off the actuator. Your boost controller solenoid goes between those two vac lines.

 

Uhhhh... wastegate.

 

mine only has on the wastegate, it doesent have another one....

 

stock one is on the left, BNR3 is on the right....

 

You'll have to use another vacuum source if you can't tap a fitting onto that housing.

 

I guess I'm the only one who knows about these?

http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me..._Code=ATP-FTG1

 

That is pretty cool but if it were me id just drill and tap the housing not that hard but stuff paper towels or something in there before you drill keeping the metal shavings out of a fresh turbo.

 

You'll have to take me for a rip in it when it's all together and tuned. I'm thinking of doing a hybrid turbo next year on my 91 GTX.

 

my friend had told me i might aswell tap into the line going to my BOV and use that line to go to the pressure sensor for my profecB specII, then a line from that to go to the wastegate....

apparently eagle talons dont have the nipple on the stock turbo so this is what they do?...

would that work, and in theory, activate the wastegate off true manifold pressure?...

 

I woudlnt T your wastegate line off of anything, just tap the housing or get one of those things classicauto posted.

 

Best way is to take it off the compressor housing or as close to it as possible....that way by the time the wastegate reacts (since the comp. housing will be a higher pressure sooner then the manifold) and bleeds the excess pressure off, the ACTUAL manifold pressure will be at the ideal target psi.

If you decide to give the wastegate signal from the manifold , at least give it its own source. Tee'ing into the BOV line may cause any of the items attached to it to have laggy response since a 5mm'ish hose is feeding 3 5mm items.

 

ah.. those little quick tap fittings are cool. Never seen those, But yea I was goin going to suggest tapping a fitting into somewhere on the TID if you didnt have that little nipple. Dont do it off the intake manifold.

Also on the BNR turbos, you cant take the comp housing off :/

 

so the way my friend explain it was to have the one line off the manifold split with a "T", have one line go to the BOV, have the other to the pressure sensor on my profecB specII and then to the wastegate, in theory the only difference would be the "T" to the blow off valve, but, if i was to put one of those fittings into my TID, how would that work?, how does that read pressure from the turbo?...

the fitting going into the coupler on the turbo isnt really an option as it's a reducer coupler and fits pretty snug and i dont have room to play with adding the fitting there, but, how BAD is the idea with going off the manifold?, and if i want to run it's own line off the manifold, does anyone have a diagram of which to use?, there are three on the back side by the firewall and three on the front, which of those can i use?, i DO know i can eliminate the front three but i believe the fittings are smaller then the 5mm hosing for the pressure sensor....

idea's?...

 

Can't eliminate the front three on the UIM. They are actual vaccum references. The ones on the rear are NOT vaccum sources....one is, but I can't recall which.

The best signal source is the upper most nipple on the FRONT of the UIM. It muffles the pulses enough to have a clean accurate signal.

I ran an FTG quicktap in my step coupler (2" to 2.5") back when I ran that old turbo. Fit fine, its not very big. Unless your tube is JAMMED against the turbo (which it shouldn't be anyways) the quick tap should work fine.

The last thing you want to eff with is your wastegate signal - a momentary loss could cost you an engine if it spikes due to no signal. You *could* do your multi-tee method, but its not the ideal and most reliable way to run something this important.

If you're going to use the manifold for wastegate reference then use the upper nipple on the front of the UIM and hook your other items to the lower or middle (whichever size fits which)

You can drill/tap the hard charge pipe coming off the turbo (or weld a bung to it for an AN fitting if you're that nuts) if you can't remove the compressor cover. There's alot of ways to do it. Just please don't do it by going to the hardware store and buying 3 T fittings.............

 

ok, so....

by front of the UIM are you talking about the side closest to the firewall or the one facing the front of the vehicle?, i know there are three vac. line's that have a 90degree bend in them that i may be able to cap off, but regardless, i may have to use the "T" fitting method for a temp. fix until i get proper fittings or the one quick fix for the coupler, i wont be boosting or anything so it should be fine, then like you said, it might be in my best interest just to get a bung welded onto my hard piping, i figure that would be the easiest and i can have it right at the compressor side, NOW, would that be good and, AS good as having one on the turbo, or is it just a temp. fix?...

would i in theory run the vac. line from the hard pipe, to the wastegate directly, and for my boost controller, install the selenoid inbetween?...

 

Yes, I personally would put the vac nipple as close to the comp housing as possible. Do it right the first time. If its just a temp fix and you wont be boosting till you get the correct fittings then why are you so eager to put the boost controller on?

 

FRONT of the UIM is reffering to the part facing the FRONT of the car.

Yes, attaching to the hardpipe is fine. Install the boost controller solenoid between it and the W/G - but read the instructions that came with it, some EBC's have funny ways of hooking to the wastegate.

The idea behind going off the comp. housing is to keep the wastegate's signal as close to the turbo as possible...thus the first coupler, or the first length of hardpipe qualify.

 

normally Bryan does tap and put a port on the compressor housing, i guess he has been slacking lately and/or forgot.

 

I’m somewhat of a perfectionist so I’d like to get everything put together at first, plus, with the boost controller I’d like to read my vac. And boost, JUST incase….

 

it's kinda sucky, but, there's always ways around things like this....

i told my mechanics shop that i'm bringing in my charge pipe tommorow to get a bung welded onto it....

 

i luv ATP

 

so hey i was wondering, there's the nipple for the brake booster and random accessories on the bottom left of the upper intake manifold, just beside the BAC valve, but on mine there's a large block off plate with ANOTHER nipple, my old one didnt have this, and i was wondering, can i use it for a vac. source for my BOV or for my accessory "tree"...?

i'll take pics when i can, i took the car for a drive and it boosts a little but is kinda wonky, but, regardless, i have major fuel and oil leaks i need to take care of first, but was wondering, when i rev. the BOV doesent go off as "hard" or "loud" as it used too and i hear compressor surge, is this normal for a BNR3 turbo, or is something still wrong?, the BOV works and opperates, but at lower boost i just get compressor surge....

idea's?...

 

I just go my stage two from bryan and mine was tapped.

In his defense, he is getting over some pretty bad burns.

 

anyone?...