I looked about found the tool for $87. But I do not have the money to afford it. I am wondering what else have you guys done to compensate, I have a press and the regular fitting. But It doesn't seem right, it's taking wayy to much effort. I don't believe it has move at all. I am using a junk rotor to practice on.

Or if there is anyone around the area who would help me out that would be great. I heard of a big stock working is this true? Im located in North Aurora, Illinois.

Thanks, Bud

 

it takes ALOT of pressure to get the bearing to initially move. just think about how much surface area there is in these rotor bearings.. they're not piston bearings. anything you do short of a tight fit brass press fitting is going to be on your own risk.

 

I have a rotor in the freezer right now and going to see how it works out. I have 6 crappy rotors I can practice on. The press I have is 8 ton press.

 

You need to buy the proper tool if you want it done correctly ( which is extremely important)

Throw the rotor in the freezer for awhile then use the right tool/ press machine. Its important the new bearing goes in 100% straight/even. Also needs to sit as flush as possible.

I was going to press my own bearings once until i found a rotary shop 1 hour away that did the job properly for $50. totally worth it since i probably would have screwed it up. It was powerhousetuning in queens i think. Just so us New Yorkers know.

I would invest in the proper tool or go to a pro, who knows you might able to charge people and do it for them. Could make your money back in no time....if your good at it.

 

I'd be interested in why you think freezing helps?

 

Doh i mean freeze the new bearing before putting it in. Dont freeze the rotor in which you are pressing out the old bearings. If you freeze the new bearing before installing in will contract (shrink but not seen from the naked eye) which will make it that much easier to press the new bearing in ; )


Forgot to add its also important that when you go to install the new bearing that the little locking tab is aligned to the spot on the rotor that the tab gets bent into. Done wrong then you might spin a bearing( ive heard about people spinning the bearing even when the locking tab is bent in correctly)

 

because freezing the bearing contracts it to slide in easier, unfortunately throwing the whole rotor in the freezer will have little effect since all the metals are contracting not just the one.

 

Thats why i felt stupid saying throw the rotor in the freezer LOL

 

I have a torch to heat up the rotor. But I just got done doing some research that using old bearings is better then new bearings. I ordered mine from atkins. I might call a spec and see how much they charge.

If there is a chance of them spinning then I don't want to take a chance yet. I when I did some research also, someone said the rotor slightly twist counterclock wise? I know freezeing the bearing itself will help.

But if I had the right tool, would it be a hell of a lot easier to press? I have a plug that will fit the bearing. It's the 71mm red plug from a bearing kit bought from harbor freight.

Going to miss high compressioI have s4 tii rotors, but the copper is showing.

 

Without the proper tool i would assume it could slightly gouge the edges or someshit which i wouldnt want to risk whatso ever. Heating the rotor seems like a good idea as long as you dont overheat it and warp it but truthfully im not sure so im not going to say thats a bad or good idea.

The rule of thumb with rotor/ stationary bearings is if the surface area shows more that 20%??? of copper showing then they need to be replaced. Not exactlly sure of the percentage but i believe its 20. Also new bearings take longer to wear in than apex/seals do. Because they have to go through many heat cycles before everything perfect. All this i just said was learned from this forum so dont think this is exactly correct.

 

or you can just find a machine shop that can press it in for you, probably charge you $20 for both rotors.

 

but without the proper tool i bet they might do a **** poor job and be a waste of money and time. This isnt something that is ok to be close enough, it must be done right.

 

^^ That's what I'm saying. It's more then 20% Well I need to double check. I don't feel as there in my limit.

 

Snap some pictures for us!

 

For me the proper tool has been a socket I bought for $3 I use in my press. I just hit it on the side of my grinder to make it flat where it will sit on the bearing. It fits just right and does not cost $87 Its seen lots of use with no problems. Just take a rotor with bearing to the store and see what fits. It makes a hell of a noise through the return springs on the press, scared the **** out of me the first time I did one. It takes a lot of pressure to move, My press is a 22ton and I wince a little every time I do rotor bearings. The first time I did the heat cool thing but have not since, no problems here.

Dont forget to measure you clearences here, you may not even need bearings.

 

i've used machine shops for jobs like that when i didn't have the time, if they think they aren't equipped to do the job then they likely will tell you straight up. none of the times i dropped them off and picked them up i had any issues with. they have alot more tools than you think for various jobs. it's actually much more difficult getting the old bearing out than placing the new bearing in.

 

Here's the picture you wanted to see. It's more then half.

 

toast

 

That's what I'm saying. But I asked a-spec how much to press out and in the new bearings. $30 for both. So that's pretty legit.

 

To get the old bearing out, just use a piece of tube or a socket of the appropriate diameter. As long as you don't damage the rotor, who cares if you damage the old bearing?

Put the new bearing in the freezer, then use the old bearing to press it in. This is what I've always done.

Or pay the machine shop a case of beer.