i just installed a FD alternator but i cant get the belt really tight because terminal B keeps hitting on bottom of the TMIC. also i started it up and all the eletrical works fine but theres a lot of exhaust fumes coming out now even after i let it warm up. is it because i accidently advanced my timing or retarded it?

 

On the terminal that is hitting if you take a closer look there is nut that hold that post on, if you loosen it you should be able to rotate the post. Or you can just get a smaller belt. Did you take out your crank angle sensor while putting in the FD alt? Us a timing light to check the timing.

 

Everyone that has talked about the FD alt swap has said something about having to modify something to get it to fit. I haven't completely put the top of the engine back together but I have done a loose fit and I'm not seeing any problems.

 

Uh, no, you can't do that.
The FD +B post is this weird arm looking thing, and you cannot change the angle on it.

I just wrote my write-up on my swap.
I used the old FC alternator post, but you need to file down this raised "divot" so you can adjust the angle.
The FC alternator +B arm otherwise bolts right in.


-Ted

 

for my S4 swap i had to change out the connectors n put female connectors in also i had to get a longer bolt and nut and drill a bigger hole for the stud of the FD alternator for my origannal V belt pulley because im not going to run dual pulleys yet. also i had to put a spacer in back of the pulley because it wasnt turning good when i put it back on so i cut the origannal serpentine pulley to where it goes into the inside and grinded it down so it fits perfectly in there with no problems.

 

woudl there be any other way of moving it out of the way so i wont have to swap the post because i looked at your write up and tried to swap them out and i kind of striped the screw to take the post out n i cant really get it out anymore.. am i SOH? im planning on doing a write up for this after im done because all the wirte ups for the FD alternators didnt really help me not enough pictures and how they did the spacings

 

when i put mine in i just tapped the TMIC with a hammer to make enought room to clear the alt.

 

When id doubt grab the hammer...

CJG

 

Yet ANOTHER reason to ditch the TMIC!!!!!!!!!!!

Plus.... its just the shroud of the TMIC that you are hitting... as long as you don't cut the core, you can dremel that sumbitch!!!!

 

i might just get a smaller belt does anyone no what the stock size of the alternator belt is?

 

Well.... I put a NEW stock belt on the other day and.... I had a dard time getting it over the pulleys with the alternator the whole way down as far as it would go.....

dunno if you can get a smaller belt that will still fit...

 

ill probably go with the hammer thing... would you ruin the piping in any way denting it?

 

I used a hammer and a 3/4 dowel pin and dented the TMIC to provide clearance.

 

Ouch! Hammers, denting and banging Is hack work, IMO.

Do It right and swap out your former L Post off your FC Alternator as Ted has mentioned or get a FMIC as I did to avoid any clearance Issues.

 

hmmm to spend a extra 1000 bucks on a greddy intercooler to get the FD alternator clearance.. sounds like a good plan haha im planning on doing the intercooler in january not enough money right now so im just trying to get my car drivable right now. for the L post off the FC.. i kind of stripped the screw in back..

 

I swapped that terminal out with S4 or S5 one.. can't remember.. worked ok .. direct swap..

 

alternator relocation bracket!

 

the alternator relocation brackets are kind of pricey for me for moving the alternator and it requires removing the other belts.

 

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00952152000

 

well today i installed it without having to use a hammer or anything i used teds method and just took off the terminal post grinded down the divot and put it on pretty easy so got the whole alternator done finally works perfectly also thanks ted

 

any more of those FD alts around? i'm gonna need one here quickly

 

just go to the wanted/sales section on the 3rd gens and post a WTB for a alternator that has good mileage on it theyll give you good prices i got mine for about 60 shipped with less then 40k miles on it. only thing is if you plan on keeping you origannal V pulley on there you have to do some drilling and also you need a spacer in back. that was the hardest thing for me to do.

 

is the wiring all the same, save for the posts? what do you mean by drilling?

 

the connectors are differnt what i did was on the terminal post i cut off the connector wire soddered new wires on with female adapters with shrink tube on it and pretty much done there. other then that if you have a TII then you probably want to change the terminals out which is pretty easy because if you have a stock TII the terminal post hits the bottom on the TMIC. then theres the adjustable bolt on the bracket to adjust the postition of the alternator youll have to change that to a little longer bolt and nut because the old bolt was small and it threaded into the old alternator which the new alternator doesnt have threads. look in the archives for more information but im planning on doing a writeup sometime this weekend because they didnt show that many picture other then the guy who redid all his ground wirings which looked pretty good but not necessary if you just want the new alternator and you dont care for looks

 

if you want to keep your origannal pulley on instead of changing the belts to a dual belt because the FD alternator has a serpentine pulley then you have to drill the instead of the V pulley bigger im not sure how much bigger i forgot to measure just a couple milimeters and you also have to get a spacer for the back of the alternator because the serpentine pulley has its own thats connected on the pulley that goes into the alternator. without the spacer you cant really spin it all that great