Ok guys, well the deal is i just got done doing lots of upgrades to my car injector clips, rtek 1.7 etc. etc... well when i went to crank it after all that, its only running like on one rotor. If you pull the L1 plug wire it dang near dies, but if you pull the L2 plug wire nothing happens, if you go out and drive it, it still has lots of power and everything... And i kno its getting fire to the plug cause i pulled it and checked it....

I think maybe the primary injector for the rear rotor isnt coming on at all, maybe i messed up with one of the injector clips.... does this sound right??? And the reason it still runs good in the upper rpms it because the secondaries(720s) are compinsating for the primary not being on....

Help fast cause if thats the problem im pulling the manifold tonight to fix it...

Thanx

 

Come on anybody, i need to diagnois this quick!!!

 

If you pull the L2 wire and it doesnt change the way it runs. Then there's obviously a problem with the rear rotor's fuel or ignition. Are the rear rotor's plugs wet or fouled?

I'd re-check your wiring before freaking out too much.

 

Nope there not fouled and I just pulled the manifold and turned the car over and both primary injectors have gas, voltage, and click while rotating....

 

I dunno wat the deal is hear, i wire brushed off the leading plugs and it seems to be running a little bit better, kinda like a smooth for a second then like crap etc. But ima buy some new plugs tomarrow and put them in and see if that helps... any more ideas???

 

ive done everything i can think of hear guys, But still if you pull the L2 plug wire, there are no changes in the idle, but if you pull L1 it dang near dies, ive changed plugs, wires and everything else. Going down the road at wat ever speed it runs like a champ, pulls hard, and does not miss a beat, but when u try and let it idle it sounds like its running on one rotor. Also one other thing i noticed is that at idle im only getting like barley 5 lbs. of Vaccum could that make it idle funny or make it not hit on the rear rotor?


Please help me out hear im out of ideas!!!!!

 

You might be on the right track with a vacuum leak. Some guys use carb spray cleaner to check for vac leaks, I don't like doing that on a t2 due to the turbo heat and risk of fire. I use a propane bottle that has an on-off valve (similar to a propane torch) with about 2-3 ft. of vacuum hose attached to it. I can pinpoint a vacuum leak by aiming the hose near suspected areas (like the intake gaskets) with the engine at idle and open the valve slightly to direct the propane where I want it. If the engine changes much at all, keep directing the hose to a spot that gives you the most amount of change and you've found the leak. Hope this helps.

 

you think a vac leak would cause it to sound like its not running on both rotors at idle?

 

Update:ive messed with the spark plugs and wires and such a bunch so i dont think there the problem, would the rtek.1.7 chip cause these symptoms? Wat about a vac leak?

 

Dude get a propane torch.

 

Well i settled out the idle a little last night, i set the tps dead on and set the timing dead on, and its a little better but just dosent sound right, kinda like its loading up while at idle, will a safc adjust the af ratio at idle?

 

Well, I'm new to rotaries, but I would assume they have to pull about the same vacuum as a piston engine in order for the brakes and such to work properly. Normal vacuum on a piston engine is around 18-20 in/Hg at idle, if you only have 5 than you have a bad vac leak somewhere. More than likely I would guess it's at the intake port(s) that feed L2, from what you describe.

It will seem to run great under acceleration because the turbo is forcing air in, which would effectively turn your vac leak into a boost leak.

 

Hey thanx that makes alot of since, I still have the factory gasket that mates the uim to the lim, maybe its leaking around the intake port feeding the rear rotor like you said, does that make since to anyone else?

Thanxx

 

Makes perfect sense....I am having the same problem right now with mine.....I had my manifolds off to fix a fuel leak and I bought intake gaskets from Atkins. I noticed the gaskets were thinner than the ones I took off and when I got it all back together, I had a vacuum leak at both gaskets. They need to be the thicker Mazda gaskets to seal up correctly. I found the leaky gaskets using my propane bottle and hose setup.