OK, last night I did a few hours of searching and research on this forum regarding leaky PD's and replacement vs. banjo bolts, and between my budget and need to get the car going as fast as possible (my Nissan was rear-ended 2 days ago, and will be out at least 2 months), I've decided to go the banjo bolt route.

Already have the part on order, but one thing that wasn't answered (at least in the threads I managed to get through) was how to replace the PD with the banjo bolt.

Was it just unscrew the bad PD out of the fuel rail, and screw the banjo bolt in its place with the 2 crush washers, or is it more in depth than that?

I have an '88 S4 nonturbo.

(Again, this is simply a question of how it is done. If I missed it in a thread, please point me in the right direction. I don't want this to turn into another debate/flame war. If you feel that I should replace the PD with another PD, that's nice... keep it to yourself, my decision is final and based on my personal economics)

 

Yep, that's basicallly it. Use two new crush washers and you should be all set. You will need to remove the upper intake so make sure to get a new upper to lower intake gasket as well. And while you are there, replace the nasty 20 year old rubber fuel line and spring clamps with new injection rated fuel hose and proper fuel injection clamps. Get some extra vacuum line as well...

 

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...pe=102&ptset=A

Does this include the requisite gasket? If not, does anyone know the Mazda OEM part number?

OK on the fuel/vac/clamp lines. I think I actually have some fuel clamps laying around from a previous project car, and the lines shouldn't be hard/expensive to get.

 

I can't access that site since I don't have a ZIP code (and 90210 didn't work).

Don't reuse clamps.

 

One of those is the right part, but don't get it there, as its like a 4 dollar part from the dealer.
The part number is N318-13-112A. You can get it here: http://mazdatrix.com/c-2.htm Or you can get it at the dealer, which would be cheaper (after shipping), easier, and faster for this particular part.

Also, I'm curious - what type of clamps do you use on the inection hoses, Aaron? I don't like the spring-type ones and you've said not to use screw types.

 

Well all my lines are AN fittings, but if I was still using the rubber I would be using these:



You can see them on the brake booster line. Just like mini t-bolt clamps. They have nice rounded edges so they don't cut the hose and the design assures even clamping pressure around the entire circumfrence of the hose. I get them in a bag of 10 for about $6 at the auto parts store.

 

Excellent, good to know.

 

work on it people

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n..._dampener.html

 

Wait, isn't that the part for the turbo? Mine's nonturbo, wouldn't that make it 13-112A-N326?

 

Damn, your right.
Also, the number mazdatrix uses isn't the exact Mazda part number. or example:
Mazdatrix number: 13-112A-N326
Mazda number: N326-13-112A
You basically take the last 4-character section and put it in the front.

Also, if the last section of the mazda number (middle for mazdatrix) only has 3 numbers, but no letter after it, then mazdatrix puts a 0 in its place to keep their part numbers the same format. For example, the number for the FD intake gasket:
Mazdatrix number: 13-1120-N3A1
Mazda number: N3A1-13-112

Its kinda confusing, and most people will never need to know, but I'm bored and decided to type it out.

 

Yummy info. Just read through the whole tech page. I am now much less ignorant of my 88 NT. Your electric air pump 6th PI method looks very cool. I suppose I could use the same rpm switch and solenoid if I were to use a vdi intake? Why didn't you use a ball bearing and spring type pressure regulator to control air pressure at a constant value?